Abstract
Shoreline evolution due to longshore sediment transport is one of the most important problems in coastal engineering and management. This paper describes a method to predict the probability distributions of long-term shoreline positions in which the evolution process is based on the standard one-line model recast into a stochastic differential equation. The time-dependent and spatially varying probability density function of the shoreline position leads to a Fokker–Planck equation model. The behaviour of the model is evaluated by applying it to two simple shoreline configurations: a single long jetty perpendicular to a straight shoreline and a rectangular beach nourishment case. The sensitivity of the model predictions to variations in the wave climate parameters is shown. The results indicate that the proposed model is robust and computationally efficient compared with the conventional Monte Carlo simulations.
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Abbreviations
- a 1 :
-
Constant in the expression for q 10 (m2 s2/kg)]
- C gb :
-
Wave group celerity (m/s)
- C v :
-
Coefficient of variance, 0 ≤ C v ≤ 1, defined as the ratio of the standard deviation to the mean
- d :
-
Difference operator
- D :
-
Variance vector
- d b :
-
Breaker depth (m)
- d c :
-
Closure depth (m)
- D ij :
-
ith row and jth column component of D
- E :
-
Expectation operator
- E b :
-
Wave energy evaluated at the breaking point (kN)
- g :
-
Acceleration due to gravity (m/s2)
- G :
-
Deterministic operator of Itô equation
- h b :
-
Discrete wave height at breaking (m)
- H b :
-
Wave height at breaking (m)
- H bm :
-
Mean of H b
- H s :
-
Significant wave height (m)
- i :
-
Alongshore cell number
- j :
-
Cross-shore node number
- k :
-
Time step of shoreline model
- m :
-
Time step of FP model
- k 1 :
-
Sediment transport coefficient or dimensionless empirical coefficient
- K m :
-
Mean of H w
- l :
-
Distance alongshore (m)
- m y :
-
Number of the discrete distribution in cross-shore direction
- N :
-
Normal distribution
- n d :
-
Dimension of state space
- n e :
-
Number of random parameters
- n s :
-
Void ratio of sand
- p :
-
Probability density function
- p 0 :
-
Initial of p
- q 1 :
-
Volumetric longshore sediment transport rate (m3/s)
- q 10 :
-
Amplitude of volumetric longshore sediment transport rate (m3/s)
- t :
-
Time (s)
- T :
-
Transpose of a matrix
- t 0 :
-
Initial time (s)
- t k :
-
Time in kth step of one-line shoreline model (s)
- t m :
-
Time in mth step of Thomas algorithm (s)
- W :
-
Wiener process vector
- W b :
-
Gaussian White noise of wave initial breaking angle
- W i :
-
ith component of Wiener process W
- W′:
-
Standard Gaussian White noise process of H b
- x :
-
Distance alongshore (m)
- y :
-
Shoreline position in cross-shore direction (m)
- y :
-
Discrete stochastic process vector
- Y :
-
Stochastic process or random variable of shoreline position or random state (which is a component of the state vector)
- Y :
-
Stochastic process vector
- y 0 :
-
Initial y
- Y 0 :
-
Initial random state or random variable of shoreline position Y
- Y 0 :
-
Initial Y
- Y F :
-
Extension distance seaward from the rectangular beach
- y i :
-
ith component of y
- y m :
-
Mean of y
- Y m :
-
Expected value or mean value of Y
- y max :
-
Maximum discrete shoreline position
- y min :
-
Minimum discrete shoreline position
- y s :
-
Standard deviation of y
- y s :
-
Standard deviation of y
- \(\dot{\user2{Y}}\) :
-
Time derivative of Y
- α 0 :
-
Incident angle of breaking waves relative to x (°)
- α 0m :
-
Mean of incident angle of breaking waves relative to x (°)
- α b :
-
Wave angle at the point of breaking (°)
- γ :
-
Ratio of wave height to water depth at breaking, = H b/d b
- Δt k :
-
Time increment of one-line shoreline model (s)
- Δt m :
-
Time increment of Thomas algorithm (s)
- Δx :
-
Size increment in alongshore direction [m]
- Δy :
-
Size increment in cross-shore direction [m]
- η :
-
Operator vector of determination of a dynamical state, may be determined by an appropriate deterministic shoreline evolution model
- η i :
-
ith component of the operator η
- κ :
-
Vector of drift
- κ i :
-
ith component of κ
- λ :
-
Ratio, \(=\frac{{\Delta t_{m} }}{{\Delta t_{k}}}\)
- ρ s :
-
Mass density of the sediment grains (kg/m3)
- ρ w :
-
Mass density of water (kg/m3)
- \( \phi \) :
-
\( = \frac{1}{8}\rho_{\text{w}} g^{3/2} \gamma^{ - 1/2} a_{1} \frac{1}{{d_{\text{c}} }}\frac{{\partial \sin (2\alpha_{\text{b}} )}}{\partial x} \)
- ψ :
-
\( = \frac{{\partial \left( {2\alpha_{{ 0 {\text{m}}}} - 2{ \arctan }\left( {\frac{\partial y}{\partial x}} \right)} \right)}}{\partial x} \)
- ω :
-
\( = \frac{1}{8}\rho_{\text{w}} g^{3/2} \gamma^{ - 1/2} a_{1} \frac{1}{{d_{\text{c}} }} \)
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Acknowledgments
This research is supported by the UK Engineering and Physical Science Research Council as part of Grant No. GR\L53953.
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Appendix 1: The theoretical framework for a general stochastic system
Appendix 1: The theoretical framework for a general stochastic system
For a real field site where sediment transport pathways are parallel or shore-normal (both have significant components in two or three dimensions), the simplification made by the one-line alongshore model is unlikely to produce an accurate prediction for the variability of the coastal spatial configurations. In this case, a multi-dimensional deterministic numerical model can be incorporated into this modelling framework, involving a stochastic process of an initial state and some model parameters along these lines. For such a random dynamic coastal system, a more specific model that characterises a Markovian process is often adopted, which is obtained by a decomposition as the similar formulation with Eq. (12):
where \( {\mathbf{Y}} = (Y_{1} ,Y_{2} , \ldots ,Y_{{n_{\text{d}} }} )^{\text{T}} \) is the state vector, n d is the dimension of the state space, κ(Y,t) is a function vector representing the effects of some form of drift, G(Y,t) is a function vector representing the effects of random diffusion, and W(t) is a n e-dimensional Gaussian (or white) noise vector. Assuming that the white noise processes are mutually independent, the co-variance parameter matrix of W(t) will be a diagonal matrix with its diagonal terms equal to the variance of the white noise processes \( W_{1} (t),W_{2} (t), \ldots ,W_{{n_{\text{e}} }} (t) \) and \( {\mathbf{D}} = (D_{11} ,D_{22} , \ldots ,D_{{n_{\text{e}} n_{\text{e}} }} ) \).
Equation (20) can also be written in the vector form of the standard Itô equation (see Soong 1973):
with E{dW(t)} = 0 and E{[dW(t)]2} = 2Ddt.
The dynamical system described by Eq. (21) with the deterministic operators κ and G driven by some expressions of sediment transport, the evolutionary PDFs of the shoreline position Y, p(y,t), will satisfy the FP equation (Soong 1973; Gardiner 2004):
The term (GDG T) uv is given by:
where G uk and G vl are components of G(y,t).
The theoretical framework described above is formulated into a stochastic shoreline evolution model to use for a n d-dimensional SDE with a n e-dimensional Wiener process. In these working examples, the state function vector is derived using the one-line model, which means that only longshore transport is considered to contribute to the shoreline changes, implying n d = 1. For simplicity’s sake, only the characteristic wave height parameter is taken as a random parameter, implying n e = 1.
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Dong, P., Wu, X.Z. Application of a stochastic differential equation to the prediction of shoreline evolution. Stoch Environ Res Risk Assess 27, 1799–1814 (2013). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00477-013-0715-0
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00477-013-0715-0