Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

HPLC–DAD–MS analysis of dyes identified in textiles from Mount Athos

  • Original Paper
  • Published:
Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

Organic colorants contained in 30 textiles (16th to early 20th century) from the monastery of Simonos Petra (Mount Athos) have been investigated using high-performance liquid chromatography equipped with diode-array detection and mass spectrometry (HPLC–DAD–MS). The components of natural dyes identified in samples treated by the standard HCl dyestuff extraction method were: alizarin, apigenin, butein, carminic acid, chrysoeriol, dcII, dcIV, dcVII, ellagic acid, emodin, fisetin, flavokermesic acid, fustin, genistein, haematein derivative (Hae′), indigotin, indirubin, isoliquiritigenin, isorhamnetin, kaempferide, kaempferol, kermesic acid, luteolin, naringenin, purpurin, quercetin, rhamnazin, rhamnetin, sulfuretin, and type B and type C compounds (last two are markers for Caesalpinia trees). Early, semi-synthetic dyes, for example indigo carmine, fuchsin components, and rhodamine B were identified in objects dated late 19th to early 20th century. A dyestuff extraction method which involves use of TFA, instead of HCl, was applied to selected historical samples, showing that the mild method enables efficient extraction of weld (Reseda luteola L.) and dyer’s broom (Genista tinctoria L.) glycosides. The marker compound (Hae′) for logwood (Haematoxylum campechianum L.) identification after treatment with HCl was investigated by liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC–MS) in negative electrospray ionization (LC–MS-ESI−) mode. LC–MS in negative atmospheric pressure chemical ionization (LC–MS-APCI−) mode was used, probably for the first time, to investigate cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa) samples. Positive electrospray ionization (LC–MS-ESI+) mode was used for identification of fuchsin components. Detailed HPLC–DAD studies were performed on young fustic (Cotinus coggygria Scop.) and Persian berries (Rhamnus trees).

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Log in via an institution

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Institutional subscriptions

Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 6

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  1. Cardon D (2007) Natural dyes—sources, tradition, technology and science. Archetype, London

    Google Scholar 

  2. Hofenk-de Graaff JH (2004) The colourful past: origins, chemistry and identification of natural dyestuffs. Archetype, London

    Google Scholar 

  3. Karapanagiotis I (2006) Am Lab 38:36–40

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  4. Wilkins J, Hill S (2006) Food in the ancient world. Blackwell publishing, Malden, MA

    Google Scholar 

  5. Osbourn AE, Lanzotti V (2009) Plant-derived natural products: synthesis, function and applications. Springer, Berlin Heidelberg New York

    Google Scholar 

  6. Papageorgiou VP, Assimopoulou AN, Couladouros EA, Hepworth D, Nicolaou KC (1999) Angew Chem Int Ed 38:270–300

    Article  Google Scholar 

  7. Karapanagiotis I, Lakka A, Valianou L, Chryssoulakis Y (2008) Microchim Acta 160:477–483

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  8. Valianou L, Stathopoulou K, Karapanagiotis I, Magiatis P, Pavlidou E, Skaltsounis A-L, Chryssoulakis Y (2009) Anal Bioanal Chem 394:871–882

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  9. Wouters J (1985) Stud Conserv 30:119–128

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  10. Surowiec I, Nowik W, Trojanowicz M (in press) Dyes History Archaeol 22

  11. Zhang X, Laursen RA (2005) Anal Chem 77:2022–2025

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  12. Sanyova J, Reisse J (2006) J Cult Herit 7:229–235

    Article  Google Scholar 

  13. Marques R, Sousa MM, Oliveira MC, Melo MJ (2009) J Chromatogr A 1216:1395–1402

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  14. Valianou L, Karapanagiotis I, Chryssoulakis Y (2009) Anal Bioanal Chem 395:2175–2189

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  15. Rosenberg E (2008) Anal Bioanal Chem 391:33–57

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  16. Petroviciu I, Albu F, Medvedovici A (2010) Microchem J 95:247–254

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  17. Hulme AN, McNab H, Peggie DA, Quye A, Vanden Berghe I, Wouters J (2005) ICOM 14th Triennial Meeting The Hague: 12–16 September 2005: Preprints, vol II. Earthscan Publications Ltd., London, U.K., p 783

    Google Scholar 

  18. Lyon H, Schulte E, de Leenheer A, Lewis S, Friemert V, Struck C, Gadsdon D, Allison R, Brunk U, van Liederkerke B, Hasselager E, Horobin R, Husain O, Wittekind D, Zschoch H (1992) Histochem J 24:236–237

    Article  Google Scholar 

  19. Peggie DA, Hulme AN, McNab H, Quye A (2008) Microchim Acta 162:371–380

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  20. Karapanagiotis I, Minopoulou E, Valianou L, Sister Daniilia, Chryssoulakis Y (2009) Anal Chim Acta 647:231–242

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  21. Valianou L, Wei S, Mubarak MS, Farmakalidou L, Karapanagiotis I, Rosenberg E, Stassinopoulos S (2010) J Archaeolog Sci, In press doi:10.1016/j.jas.2010.08.025

  22. Assimopoulou AN, Karapanagiotis I, Vasiliou A, Kokkini S, Papageorgiou VP (2006) Biomed Chromatogr 20:1359–1374

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  23. www.byztexathos.org

  24. Nowik W (2001) Dyes Hist Archaeol 16/17:129–144

    Google Scholar 

  25. Antal DS, Schwaiger S, Ellmerer-Müller EP, Stuppner H (2010) Planta Med 76:1–8

    Article  Google Scholar 

  26. Wouters J (2001) Dyes History Archaeol 16/17:145–157

    Google Scholar 

  27. Ferreira E, Quye A, McNab H, Hulme A (2003) Dyes History Archaeol 19:19–23

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  28. Puchalska M, Połeć-Pawlak K, Zadrożna I, Hryszko H, Jarosz M (2004) J Mass Spectrom 39:1441–1449

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  29. Van Bommel MR, Vanden Berghe I, Wallert AM, Boitelle R, Wouters J (2007) J Chromatogr A 1157:260–272

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgements

The authors would like to thank Dr C. Karydis for providing the historical samples. Support by the Getty Foundation (USA), through the project Byz-tex-Athos (www.byztexathos.org) is gratefully acknowledged.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Department of Chemical Engineering, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, 54124, Thessaloniki, Greece

    Dimitrios Mantzouris & Costas Panayiotou

  2. Art Diagnosis Center, Ormylia Foundation, 63071, Ormylia, Greece

    Dimitrios Mantzouris, Ioannis Karapanagiotis & Lemonia Valianou

  3. University Ecclesiastical Academy of Thessaloniki, 54250, Thessaloniki, Greece

    Ioannis Karapanagiotis

Authors
  1. Dimitrios Mantzouris
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. Ioannis Karapanagiotis
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  3. Lemonia Valianou
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  4. Costas Panayiotou
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Ioannis Karapanagiotis.

Additional information

Published in the special issue Analytical Chemistry for Cultural Heritage with Guest Editors Rocco Mazzeo, Silvia Prati, and Aldo Roda.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Cite this article

Mantzouris, D., Karapanagiotis, I., Valianou, L. et al. HPLC–DAD–MS analysis of dyes identified in textiles from Mount Athos. Anal Bioanal Chem 399, 3065–3079 (2011). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00216-011-4665-4

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Revised:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00216-011-4665-4

Keywords

Search

Navigation