Skip to main content
Log in

High-performance liquid chromatographic determination of colouring matters in historical garments from the Holy Mountain of Athos

  • Original Paper
  • Published:
Microchimica Acta Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract.

This work is probably the first attempt to identify the organic colouring materials contained in post-Byzantine textiles, from the Holy Mountain of Athos. Samples extracted from seven ecclesiastical garments (15th–19th century) are investigated by high performance liquid chromatography with UV-Vis diode array detection. The detection limits for alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, laccaic acid A, luteolin, apigenin, genistein, fisetin, sulfuretin, ellagic acid, indigotin and indirubin are found to be within 0.002–0.029 µg mL−1. The following organic dyes are identified in the extracts: dyer’s broom (Genista tinctoria L.), young fustic (Cotinus coggygria Scop.), an indigoid dye source either indigo (Indigofera species) or woad (Isatis tinctoria L.), madder, cochineal and lac dye (Kerria lacca Kerr). Furthermore, the identification of a brazilein derivative indicates the presence of a Caesalpinia dye source in the samples.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  • V P Papageorgiou A N Assimopoulou E A Couladouros D Hepworth K C Nicolaou (1999) ArticleTitleThe chemistry and biology of alkannin, shikonin and related naphthazarin natural products Angew Chem Int Ed 38 270 Occurrence Handle10.1002/(SICI)1521-3773(19990201)38:3<270::AID-ANIE270>3.0.CO;2-0

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • J H Hofenk de Graaff (2004) The colourful past Abegg-Stiftung and Archetype Publications Riggisberg and London

    Google Scholar 

  • S M Halpine (1996) ArticleTitleAn improved dye and lake pigment analysis method for high-performance liquid chromatography and diode-array detector Stud Conserv 41 76 Occurrence Handle10.2307/1506519 Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DyaK28Xltl2mtrk%3D

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • P Novotná V Pacáková Z Bosáková K Štulík (1999) ArticleTitleHigh-performance liquid chromatographic determination of some anthraquinone and naphthoquinone dyes occurring in historical textiles J Chromatogr A 863 235 Occurrence Handle10.1016/S0021-9673(99)00980-2

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • W Nowik (2001) ArticleTitleThe possibility of differentiation and identification of red and blue “soluble” dyewoods Dyes History Archaeol 16/17 129

    Google Scholar 

  • E S B Ferreira A Quye H McNab A N Hulme J Wouters J J Boon (2001) ArticleTitleDevelopment of analytical techniques for the study of natural yellow dyes in historic textiles Dyes History Archaeol 16/17 179

    Google Scholar 

  • I Petroviciu J Wouter (2002) ArticleTitleAnalysis of natural dyes from Romanian 19th- and 20th-century ethnographical textiles by DAD-HPLC Dyes History Archaeol 18 57 Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DC%2BD38XmsVWnsrY%3D

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • E S B Ferreira A Quye A N Hulme H McNab (2003) ArticleTitleLC-Ion trap MS and PDA-HPLC-complementary techniques in the analysis of flavonoid dyes in historical textiles: the case study of an 18th-century Herald’s Tabard Dyes History Archaeol 19 13 Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DC%2BD3sXptFSjtrg%3D

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • J Orska-Gawryś I Surowiec J Kehl H Rejniak K Urbaniak-Walczak M Trojanowicz (2003) ArticleTitleIdentification of natural dyes in archaeological coptic textiles by liquid chromatography with diode array detection J Chromatogr A 989 239 Occurrence Handle10.1016/S0021-9673(03)00083-9 Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DC%2BD3sXhs1Kms74%3D

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • B Szostek J Orska-Gawrys I Surowiec M Trojanowicz (2003) ArticleTitleInvestigation of natural dyes occuring in historical Coptic textiles by high-performance liquid chromatography with UV-Vis and mass spectrometric detection J Chromatogr A 1012 179 Occurrence Handle10.1016/S0021-9673(03)01170-1 Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DC%2BD3sXmvVKktrs%3D

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • I Surowiec W Nowik M Trojanowicz (2004) ArticleTitleIdentification of “insoluble” red dyewoods by high performance liquid chromatography – photodiode array detection (HPLC-PDA) fingerprinting J Sep Sci 27 209 Occurrence Handle10.1002/jssc.200301612 Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DC%2BD2cXhslOgurY%3D

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • M Trojanowicz J Orska-Gawryś I Surowiec B Szostek K Urbaniak-Walczak J Kehl M Wróbel (2004) ArticleTitleChromatographic investigation of dyes extracted from Coptic textiles from the National Museum in Warsaw Stud Conserv 49 115 Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DC%2BD2MXht1Gj

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • W Nowik S Desrosiers I Surowiec M Trojanowicz (2005) ArticleTitleThe analysis of dyestuffs from first- to second-century textile artefacts found in the Martres-de-Veyre (France) excavations Archaeometry 47 835 Occurrence Handle10.1111/j.1475-4754.2005.00235.x Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DC%2BD2MXht1GhtLfP

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • R Hofmann-de Keijzer M R van Bommel (2005) ArticleTitleTLC and HPLC analysis of red and violet cotton yarns of Indonesian textiles Dyes History Archaeol 20 70 Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DC%2BD2MXnsVeiu74%3D

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • I Surowiec A Quye M Trojanowicz (2006) ArticleTitleLiquid chromatography determination of natural dyes in extracts from historical Scottish textiles excavated from peat bogs J Chromatogr A 1112 209 Occurrence Handle10.1016/j.chroma.2005.11.019 Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DC%2BD28Xjs1ynsr4%3D

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • K Pawlak M Puchalska A Miszczak E Rosloniec M Jarosz (2006) ArticleTitleBlue natural organic dyestuffs – from textile dyeing to mural painting. Separation and characterization of coloring matters present in elderberry, logwood and indigo J Mass Spectrom 41 613 Occurrence Handle10.1002/jms.1018 Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DC%2BD28XntVCms78%3D

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • I Karapanagiotis V de Villemereuil P Magiatis P Polychronopoulos K Vougogiannopoulou A-L Skaltsounis (2006) ArticleTitleIdentification of the coloring constituents of four natural indigoid dyes J Liq Chromatogr Related Technol 29 1491 Occurrence Handle10.1080/10826070600674935 Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DC%2BD28XjvVakt7k%3D

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • C J Cooksey (2001) ArticleTitleTyrian purple: 6,6′-Dibromoindigo and related compounds Molecules 6 736 Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DC%2BD3MXnsV2lt7s%3D Occurrence Handle10.3390/60900736

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Cardon D (2003) Le monde des teintures naturelles. Berlin, Paris p 525

  • Schweppe H, Winter J (1997) Madder and Alizarin, in Artists’ Pigments, A Handbook of their history and characteristics. In: FitzHugh E W (ed) Oxford University Press, Oxford, vol 3, p 109

  • J Wouters (2001) ArticleTitleThe dye of Rubia peregrina – I. Preliminary investigations Dyes History Archaeol 16/17 145

    Google Scholar 

  • J Wouters A Verhecken (1989) ArticleTitleThe coccid insect dyes: HPLC and computerized diode-array analysis of dyed yarns Stud Conserv 34 189 Occurrence Handle10.2307/1506286 Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DyaK3cXnsF2jtQ%3D%3D

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • I Joosten M R van Bommel R Hofmann-de Keijzer H Reschreiter (2006) ArticleTitleMicro analysis on Hallstatt textiles: colour and condition Microchim Acta 155 169 Occurrence Handle10.1007/s00604-006-0537-6 Occurrence Handle1:CAS:528:DC%2BD28Xptlamtr8%3D

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to I. Karapanagiotis.

Additional information

Correspondence: Ioannis Karapanagiotis, Ormylia Art Diagnosis Center, Sacred Convent of the Annunciation, Ormylia, GR-63071 Chalkidiki, Greece

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Cite this article

Karapanagiotis, I., Lakka, A., Valianou, L. et al. High-performance liquid chromatographic determination of colouring matters in historical garments from the Holy Mountain of Athos. Microchim Acta 160, 477–483 (2008). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00604-007-0774-4

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00604-007-0774-4

Navigation