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Wave Hindcasting

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Encyclopedia of Coastal Science

Part of the book series: Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series ((EESS))

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Definition

Wave hindcasting refers to predicting surface waves for a past wind event. The same process is described in different terms – as wave nowcasting and wave forecasting referring to the real-time and future wind-event predictions, respectively. The hindcasting wave parameters of interest are wave height (H, the height from the bottom trough to the top crest) and period (T, simply the passing time of two successive crests). These two parameters are often called integral parameters – because the individual characteristics such as the shape and the wave regularity or irregularity are not revealed by these two parameters and the hindcasting methods. The wind waves are highly spectromatic – therefore they can best be described in spectral energy terms. The integration of the spectral energy yields a characteristic wave height of the spectrum known as the H mo which turns out to be nearly equivalent to the significant wave height , H s or H 1/3– the average of the highest one-third...

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Correspondence to Dilip K. Barua .

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Barua, D.K. (2017). Wave Hindcasting. In: Finkl, C., Makowski, C. (eds) Encyclopedia of Coastal Science . Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-48657-4_347-2

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-48657-4_347-2

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  • Print ISBN: 978-3-319-48657-4

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-319-48657-4

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