Abstract
Amid the many food safety scandals that have erupted in recent years, Chinese food activists and consumers are turning to the creation of alternative food networks (AFNs) to ensure better control over their food. These Chinese AFNs have not been documented in the growing literature on food studies. Based on in-depth interviews and case studies, this paper documents and develops a typology of AFNs in China, including community supported agriculture, farmers’ markets, buying clubs, and recreational garden plot rentals. We unpacked the four standard dimensions of alternativeness of AFNs into eight elements and used these to examine the alternativeness of AFNs in China. We argue first that the landscape of alternativeness varies among different networks but the healthfulness of food is the most prominent element. Second, there is an inconsistency in values between AFN initiators and customers, which contributes to the uneven alternativeness of Chinese AFNs. Third, Chinese AFNs are strongly consumer driven, a factor that constrains their alternativeness at present. The inclusion of “real” peasants in the construction of AFNs in China is minimal. This paper adds to the existing literature on AFNs with an analysis of recent initiatives in China that have not been well documented before. By unpacking the dimensions of alternativeness into specific elements, this paper also provides an analytical framework for examining the alternativeness of AFNs especially nascent ones that have not developed a full spectrum of alternativeness.
Similar content being viewed by others
Notes
Green food is food quality standard in China that is lower than the organic standard (see Scott et al. 2014).
We believe the “quality turn” is a useful concept in understanding the transformation of China’s food system. However, it demonstrates very different connotations in the Chinese context. We understand the “quality turn” in China as a competitive sphere dominated by consumers but also proactively shaped by a small number of food activists, who are mainly well-educated ecological food producers (typically of urban backgrounds), and organizers of consumer organizations and NGOs pushing forward public education about AFNs and about the food system.
Indeed, even if there is one, the number cannot be accurate, given the rapidly changing landscape of AFNs in China. The fuzzy definition of AFNs also makes it hard to do a national count. For example, some self-proclaimed CSA farms do not have members prepay at all and are merely food delivery businesses.
Interview with the founder of a CSA farm, 6 December 2012, Beijing.
In late 2012, Professor Wen facilitated the establishment of China Rural Construction Institute at Southwest University in Chongqing.
Interview with a CSA farmer, 6 December 2012, Beijing.
Interview with a CSA farmer and farm workers, 1 April 2012, Beijing.
Interview with a CSA farmer from Chongming Island, May 27 2012, Shanghai.
Interview with a Beijing Country Fair farmers’ market organizer, 3 April 2012 and 6 December 2012, Beijing. We identified about 20 organic or ecological farmers’ markets across the country. The frequency, popularity, reputation, and acceptance of these markets differ greatly.
Interview with one of the Beijing Country Fair Farmers’ Market organizers, 3 April 2012, Beijing.
Interview with a CSA farmer, 6 December 2012, Beijing.
Interview with the founder of a buying club in Beijing, 9 April 2012, Beijing.
Interview with a small-scale ecological farmer, 2 June 2012, Fuzhou, Fujian province.
Interview with founders of Green Heartland, 30 April 2012, Chengdu, Sichuan province.
Two other prominent buying clubs in China, the Green League Mums’ Buying Club and the Shanghai Caituan, were founded by and comprised mostly of housewives.
Interview with the founder of Beijing Green League Mum’s Buying Club, 9 April 2012, Beijing.
Interview with a CSA farmer, 2 June 2012, Fuzhou, Fujian province. The farm tried to collect organic food waste from its shareholders in order to make compost but it got little response.
Abbreviations
- AFN:
-
Alternative food network
- CSA:
-
Community supported agriculture
References
Abrahams, C. 2007. Globally useful conceptions of alternative food networks in the developing south: The case of Johannesburg’s urban food supply system. In Alternative food geographies: Representation and practice, ed. D. Maye, L. Holloway, and M. Kneafsey, 95–114. Oxford: Elsevier.
Alkon, A. 2008. From value to values: Sustainable consumption at farmers markets. Agriculture and Human Values 25: 487–498.
Allen, P. 2010. Realizing justice in local food systems. Cambridge Journal of Regions, Economy, and Society 3: 295–308.
Allen, P. 2008. Mining for justice in the food system: Perceptions, practices, and possibilities. Agriculture and Human Values 25: 157–161.
Allen, P., M. FitzSimmons, M. Goodman, and K. Warner. 2003. Shifting plates in the agrifood landscape: The tectonics of alternative agrifood initiatives in California. Journal of Rural Studies 19: 61–75.
Allen, P., and J. Guthman. 2006. From “old school” to “farm-to-school”: Neoliberalization from the ground up. Agriculture and Human Values 23: 401–415.
Beckie, M.A., E.H. Kennedy, and H. Wittman. 2012. Scaling up alternative food networks: Farmers’ markets and the role of clustering in western Canada. Agriculture and Human Values 29: 333–345.
Beijing Country Fair. 2011. Introduction of Beijing Country Fair. http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_725ab7d40100xqdt.html. Accessed 2 Sept 2013 (in Chinese).
Born, B., and M. Purcell. 2006. Avoiding the local trap: Scale and food systems in planning research. Journal of Planning Education and Research 26(2): 195–207.
Brown, C., and S. Miller. 2008. The impacts of local markets: a review of research on farmers markets and community supported agriculture (CSA). American Journal of Agricultural Economics 90(5): 1296–1302.
China Agriculture Information Web. 2013. “Happy Farm” model became the growth point of infrastructure agriculture in Haidian district, Beijing. http://nc.mofcom.gov.cn/articlexw/xw/dsxw/201305/18503935_1.html. Accessed 3 Aug 2014 (in Chinese).
DeLind, L.B. 2011. Are local food and the local food movement taking us where we want to go? Or are we hitching our wagons to the wrong stars? Agriculture and Human Values 28(2): 273–283.
DuPuis, M., and S. Gillon. 2009. Alternative modes of governance: Organic as civic engagement. Agriculture and Human Values 26(1–2): 43–56.
Feagan, R. 2007. The place of food: Mapping out the “local” in local food systems. Progress in Human Geography 31: 23–42.
Feagan, R., and A. Henderson. 2009. Devon Acres CSA: Local struggles in a global food system. Agriculture and Human Values 26(3): 203–217.
Feenstra, G. 1997. Local food systems and sustainable communities. American Journal of Alternative Agriculture 12(1): 28–36.
Freidberg, S., and L. Goldstein. 2011. Alternative food in the global south: Reflections on a direct marketing initiative in Kenya. Journal of Rural Studies 27(1): 24–34.
Gale, H.F. 2011. Building trust in food. China dialogue. http://www.chinadialogue.net/article/show/single/en/4207-Building-trust-in-food. Accessed 12 Nov 2012.
Garnett, T., and A. Wilkes. 2014. Appetite for change: Social, economic, and environmental transformations in China’s food system. http://www.fcrn.org.uk/sites/default/files/fcrn_china_mapping_study_final_pdf_2014.pdf. Accessed 19 Mar 2014.
Goodman, D. 2003. Editorial: The quality “turn” and alternative food practices: Reflection and agenda. Journal of Rural Studies 19: 1–7.
Goodman, D. 2004. Rural Europe redux? Reflections on alternative agro-food networks and paradigm change. Sociologia Ruralis 44: 3–16.
Goodman, D. 2009. Place and space in alternative food networks: connecting production and consumption. Paper #21, environment, politics, and development working paper series, Department of Geography, King’s College London.
Goodman, D., and M. Goodman. 2008. Alternative food networks. In International encyclopedia of human geography, ed. R. Kitchin, and N. Thrift, 208–220. Oxford: Elsevier.
Goodman, D., E.M. DuPuis, and M.K. Goodman. 2012. Alternative food networks: Knowledge, practice, and politics. London and New York: Routledge.
Guthman, J. 2008. “If they only knew”: Color blindness and universalism in California alternative food institutions. The Professional Geographer 60(3): 387–397.
Guthman, J. 2004. Agrarian dreams? The paradox of organic farming in California. Berkeley: University of California Press.
Hinrichs, C. 2003. The practice and politics of food system localization. Journal of Rural Studies 19(1): 33–45.
Hinrichs, C. 2000. Embeddedness and local food systems: Notes on two types of direct agricultural market. Journal of Rural Studies 16(3): 295–303.
Hinrichs, C., and P. Allen. 2008. Selective patronage and social justice: Local food consumer campaigns in historical context. Journal of Agricultural and Environmental Ethics 21(4): 329–352.
Hinrichs, C., and K.S. Kremer. 2002. Social inclusion in a Midwest local food system project. Journal of Poverty 6(1): 65–90.
Ho, P., and R.L. Edmonds (eds.). 2008. China’s embedded activism: opportunities and constraints of a social movement. London: Routledge.
Holloway, L., R. Cox, L. Venn, M. Kneafsey, E. Dowler, and H. Tuomainen. 2006. Managing sustainable farmed landscape through ‘alternative’ food networks: A case study from Italy. The Geographical Journal 172(3): 219–229.
Jarosz, L. 2008. The city in the country: Growing alternative food networks in metropolitan areas. Journal of Rural Studies 24: 231–244.
Jarosz, L. 2000. Understanding agri-food networks as social relations. Agriculture and Human Values 17: 279–283.
Jones, O., J. Kirwan, C. Morris, H. Buller, H. Dunn, A. Hopkins, and F. Whittington. 2010. On the alternativeness of alternative food networks: sustainability and the co-production of social and ecological wealth. In Interrogating alterity: Alternative economic and political spaces, ed. D. Fuller, A. Jones, and R. Lee, 95–112. Oxford: Ashgate.
Ju, H. 2009. Factors influencing consumer participations in community supported agriculture: A case study in Anlong village, Chengdu. Master Thesis, Sichuan Agriculture University (in Chinese).
Kirwan, J. 2006. The interpersonal world of direct marketing: Examining conventions of quality at UK farmers’ markets. Journal of Rural Studies 22: 301–312.
Kirwan, J. 2004. Alternative strategies in the UK agro-food system: Interrogating the alterity of farmers’ markets. Sociologia Ruralis 44(4): 395–415.
Kirwan, J., and C. Foster. 2007. Public sector food procurement in the United Kingdom: Examining the creation of an “alternative” and localized network in Cornwall. In Alternative food networks: Representation and practice, ed. D. Maye, L. Holloway, and M. Kneafsey, 185–202. Oxford: Elsevier.
Klein, J.A. 2013. Everyday approaches to food safety in Kunming. The China Quarterly 214: 376–393.
Lang, K.B. 2010. The changing face of community-supported agriculture. Culture and Agriculture 32(1): 17–26.
Little, R., D. Maye, and B. Ilbery. 2010. Collective purchase: Moving local and organic foods beyond the niche market. Environment and Planning A 42(8): 1797–1813.
Little Donkey Farm. 2012. Weekend peasants’ essays in the field. http://www.littledonkeyfarm.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=4186&extra=page%3D1. Accessed 12 Nov 2012 (in Chinese).
Liu, Fang. 2012a. Looking for a new way of farming: Shi Yan and her “shared harvest.” Green Leaf. http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_55a11f8e0102e7ty.html. Accessed 12 Nov 2012 (in Chinese).
Liu, Fei. 2012b. Institutional embeddedness and local food system: Based on a case study of three typical CSAs in Z city. China Agricultural University Journal of Social Sciences Edition 29(1): 140–149. (In Chinese).
Los Angeles Times. 2010 (6 December). Some Japanese take up weekend farming. http://articles.latimes.com/2010/dec/06/world/la-fg-japan-farmers-20101206. Accessed 4 Aug 2014.
Lu, X. 2010. Social structure of contemporary China. Beijing: Social Science Academic Press. (In Chinese).
Lyson, T. 2004. Civic agriculture: Reconnecting farm, food, and community. Boston: Tufts University Press.
Marsden, T., and E. Smith. 2005. Ecological entrepreneurship: Sustainable development in local communities through quality food production and local branding. Geoforum 36(4): 440–451.
Maye, D., M. Kneafsey, and L. Holloway. 2007. Introducing alternative food geographies. In Alternative food geographies: Representation and practice, ed. D. Maye, L. Holloway, and M. Kneafsey, 1–20. Oxford: Elsevier.
Morris, C., and C. Young. 2000. “Seed to shelf”, “teat to table”, “barley to beer”, and “womb to tomb”: Discourses of food quality and quality assurance schemes in the UK. Journal of Rural Studies 16(1): 103–115.
Murdoch, J., T. Marsden, and J. Banks. 2000. Quality, nature, and embeddedness: Some theoretical considerations in the context of the food sector. Economic Geography 76: 107–125.
Murdoch, J., and M. Miele. 2004. A new aesthetic of food? Relational reflexivity in the “alternative” food movement. In Qualities of food, ed. M. Harvey, A. McMeekin, and A. Warde, 156–175. Manchester: University of Manchester Press.
Nelson, E., L. Gómez Tovar, R. Schwentesius Rindermann, and M.Á. Gómez Cruz. 2010. Participatory organic certification in Mexico: An alternative approach to maintaining the integrity of the organic label. Agriculture and Human Values 27(2): 227–237.
Nestle, M. 2007. Food politics: How the food industry influences nutrition and health (revised and expanded edition).. Berkeley and Los Angeles, CA: University of California Press.
Pan, J., and J. Du. 2011a. Alternative responses to “the modern dream”: The sources and contradictions of rural reconstruction in China. Inter-Asia Cultural Studies 12(3): 454–464.
Pan, J., and J. Du. 2011b. The social economy of new rural reconstruction. China Journal of Social Work 4(3): 271–282.
Paüla, V., and F.H. McKenzie. 2013. Peri-urban farmland conservation and development of alternative food networks: Insights from a case-study area in metropolitan Barcelona (Catalonia, Spain). Land Use Policy 30: 94–105.
Pei, X., A. Tandon, A. Alldrick, and L. Giorgi. 2011. The China melamine milk scandal and its implications for food safety regulation. Food Policy 36: 412–420.
Qiao, Y. 2010. Organic farming research in China. Organic Research Center Alliance. http://www.orca-research.org/orca-china.html. Accessed 2 Sept 2013.
Raynolds, L.T. 2000. Reembedding global agriculture: The international organic and fair trade movements. Agriculture and Human Values 17: 297–309.
Reardon, T., J. Berdegué, and C.P. Timmer. 2005. Supermarketization of the “emerging markets” of the Pacific Rim: Development and trade implications. Journal of Food Distribution Research 36(1): 3–12.
Rocha, C., and I. Lessa. 2009. Urban governance for food security: The alternative food system in Belo Horizonte. Brazil. International Planning Studies 14(4): 389–400.
Sanders, R. 2006. A market road to sustainable agriculture: Ecological agriculture, green food, and organic agriculture in China. Development and Change 37(1): 201–226.
Sanders, R. 2000. Prospects for sustainable development in the Chinese countryside: The political economy of Chinese ecological agriculture. Brookfield: Ashgate.
Schumilas, T. 2014. Alternative food networks with Chinese characteristics. PhD Dissertation, Department of Geography & Environmental Management, University of Waterloo.
Schumilas, T., S. Scott, Z. Si, and T. Fuller. 2012. CSAs in Canada and China: Innovation and paradox. Paper presented at the international conference on rural reconstruction and food sovereignty, 2nd South–South forum on sustainability, Chongqing, China, 7–11 Dec.
Scialabba, N.E., and M. Müller-Lindenlauf. 2010. Organic agriculture and climate change. Renewable Agriculture and Food System 25(2): 158–169.
Scott, S., Z. Si, T. Schumilas, and A. Chen. 2014. Contradictions in state- and civil society-driven developments in China’s ecological agriculture sector. Food Policy 45(2): 158–166.
Sheng, J., L. Shen, Y. Qiao, M. Yu, and B. Fan. 2009. Market trends and accreditation systems for organic food in China. Trends in Food Science & Technology 20: 396–401.
Shi, T. 2002. Ecological agriculture in China: Bridging the gap between rhetoric and practice of sustainability. Ecological Economics 42: 359–368.
Shi, Y., C. Cheng, P. Lei, T. Wen, and C. Merrifield. 2011a. Safe food, green food, good food: Chinese community supported agriculture and the rising middle class. International Journal of Agricultural Sustainability 9(4): 551–558.
Shi, Y., C. Cheng, P. Lei, Y. Zhu, Y. Jia, and T. Wen. 2011b. Correlation analysis of ecological urban agriculture development and the rise of urban middle class: A participatory study based on the operation of Little Donkey Farm CSA. Guizhou Social Sciences 254(2): 55–60. (In Chinese).
Shi, T., and R. Gill. 2005. Developing effective policies for the sustainable development of ecological agriculture in China: The case study of Jinshan County with a systems dynamics model. Ecological Economics 53: 223–246.
Shu, Q. 2012. Beijing farmers’ market: an attempt to build the “food community.” The Wall Street Journal (Chinese version). http://cn.wsj.com/gb/20121029/TRV082620.asp. Accessed 12 Nov 2012.
Smithers, J., J. Lamarche, and A. Joseph. 2008. Unpacking the terms of engagement with local food at the farmers’ market: Insights from Ontario. Journal of Rural Studies 24(3): 337–350.
Sonnino, R., and T. Marsden. 2006. Beyond the divide: Rethinking relationships between alternative and conventional food networks in Europe. Journal of Economic Geography 6: 181–199.
Sun, D. 2013 (2 January). Microblog posts. http://www.weibo.com/p/1005051071561494/weibo?is_search=0&visible=0&is_tag=0&profile_ftype=1&page=116#feedtop. Accessed 1 April 2014 (in Chinese).
Thiers, P. 2005. Using global organic markets to pay for ecologically based agricultural development in China. Agriculture and Human Values 22(1): 3–15.
Thiers, P. 2002. From grassroots movement to state-coordinated market strategy: The transformation of organic agriculture in China. Environment and Planning C: Government and Policy 20(3): 357–373.
Tregear, A. 2011. Progressing knowledge in alternative and local food networks: Critical reflections and a research agenda. Journal of Rural Studies 27: 419–430.
Urban Plant Project Seoul. 2010 (21 September). Weekend farm. http://urbanplantseoul.wordpress.com/2010/09/21/%EC%A3%BC%EB%A7%90%EB%86%8D%EC%9E%A5-weekend-farm/. Accessed 4 Aug 2014.
Watts, D.C.H., B. Ilbery, and D. Maye. 2005. Making reconnections in agro-food geography: Alternative systems of food provision. Progress in Human Geography 29(1): 22–40.
Wen, T., K. Lau, C. Cheng, H. He, and J. Qiu. 2012. Ecological civilization, indigenous culture, and rural reconstruction in China. Monthly Review 63(9): 29–44.
Whatmore, S., P. Stassart, and H. Renting. 2003. Guest editorial: What’s alternative about alternative food networks? Environment and Planning A 35: 389–391.
Wilkinson, J. 2010. Recognition and redistribution in the renegotiation of rural space: The dynamics of aesthetic and ethical critiques. In Consuming space: Placing consumption in perspective, ed. M. Goodman, D. Goodman, and M. Redclift, 97–120. Aldershot: Ashgate.
Wilson, A.D. 2013. Beyond alternative: Exploring the potential for autonomous food spaces. Antipode 45(3): 719–737.
Wiskerke, J.S.C. 2009. On places lost and places regained: Reflections on the alternative food geography and sustainable regional development. International Planning Studies 14(4): 369–387.
Yang, G. 2013. Contesting food safety in the Chinese media: Between hegemony and counter-hegemony. The China Quarterly 214: 337–355.
Ye, X., Z. Wang, and Q. Li. 2002. The ecological agricultural movement in modern China. Agriculture, Ecosystems & Environment 92: 261–281.
Yin, C., and W. Zhou. 2012. We’re all farmers now. China Dialogue. http://www.chinadialogue.net/article/show/single/en/4944-We-re-all-farmers-now. Accessed 12 Nov 2012.
Yuan, Y. 2011. China’s tycoons go farming. China Dialogue. http://www.chinadialogue.net/article/show/single/en/4622-China-s-tycoons-go-farming. Accessed 12 Nov 2012.
Zhang, W. 2013. The Chinese reality of organic farmers’ markets. New Business Weekly 06. http://www.yogeev.com/article/29783.html. Accessed 13 Mar 2014 (in Chinese).
Acknowledgments
We would like to acknowledge funding from the Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council of Canada that made possible the fieldwork on which this article is based. We would also like to thank the anonymous reviewers for constructive feedback on our paper.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Rights and permissions
About this article
Cite this article
Si, Z., Schumilas, T. & Scott, S. Characterizing alternative food networks in China. Agric Hum Values 32, 299–313 (2015). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10460-014-9530-6
Accepted:
Published:
Issue Date:
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10460-014-9530-6