Abstract
Regional cuisines or foodways have been a topic of interest to both historians and archaeologists for at least the past 30 years. scholars recognize a regional foodway in the antebellum Upland South that is part of the larger “Upland South” cultural tradition. The agricultural and archaeological data on subsistence in the antebellum Upland South have been woven into an idealized set of subsistence practices that revolved around agricultural practices. The examination of four contemporaneous faunal assemblages representative of different societal classes living in 19th-century Kentucky shows that this generalized version of Upland South food-ways does not hold true across economic classes. Instead, a closer look reveals that many people living on Kentucky’s antebellum farmsteads struggled regularly for food security and that the idealized version of a shared “Upland South foodway” was restricted to the wealthy planter class that had ready access to the market economy.
Similar content being viewed by others
References
Allgood, Jessica, and J. Trace Kirkwood 2002 The Armstrong Farmstead (15FA185): Spatial Patterning, Social Relations, and Consumer Behavior at a Nineteenth-Century Central Bluegrass Farmstead. Paper presented at the Symposium on Ohio Valley Historical and Urban Archaeology, Transylvania University, Lexington, KY.
Barber, Jennifer 2003 Phase II and III Archaeological Excavations at the Armstrong Farmstead (15FA185) Fayette County, Kentucky (Item No. 7-163.00). Report to Kentucky Transportation Cabinet, Frankfort, from Cultural Resource Analysts, Inc., Lexington, KY.
Baxter, M. J. 2001 Methodological Issues in the Study of Assemblage Diversity. American Antiquity 6(4):715–725.
Berlin, Ira, and Philip D. Morgan 1991 Introduction. In The Slaves’ Economy: Independent Production by Slaves in the Americas, Ira Berlin and Philip D. Morgan, editors, pp. 1–27. Frank Cass & Co, Portland, OR.
Berlin, Ira, and Philip D. Morgan 1993 Labor and the Shaping of Slave Life in the Americas. In Cultivation and Culture: Labor and the Shaping of Slave Life in the Americas, Ira Berlin and Philip D. Morgan, editors, pp. 1–45. University Press of Virginia, Charlottesville.
Bidwell, Percy W., and John I. Falconer 1925 History of Agriculture in the Northern United States, 1620–1860. Carnegie Institution of Washington, Washington, DC.
Breitburg, Emmanuel 1976 Faunal Remains from the First Hermitage. In An Archaeological and Historical Assessment of the First Hermitage, Samuel D. Smith, editor, pp. 249–269. Archaeology Research Series No. 2. Tennessee Division of Archaeology and the Ladies Hermitage Association, Nashville.
Breitburg, Emmanuel 1983 An Analysis of Faunal Remains from Wynnewood State Historic Site, Sumner County, Tennessee, and Its Implications to Tennessee Plantation Site Archaeology in the Central Basin. Tennessee Anthropologist 8(2):182–199.
Brown, Linda Keller, and Kay Mussell (editors) 1984 Ethnic and Regional Foodways in the United States: The Performance of Group Identity. University of Tennessee Press, Knoxville.
Cabak, Melanie A., and Mark D. Groover 2006 Bush Hill: Material Life at a Working Plantation. Historical Archaeology 40(4):51–83.
Crabtree, Pamela 1990 Zooarchaeology and Complex Societies: Some Uses of Faunal Analysis for the Study of Trade, Social Status, and Ethnicity. In Archaeological Methods and Theory, Vol. 2, Michael B. Schiffer, editor, pp. 155–205. University of Arizona Press, Tucson.
Davenport, Christopher 2000 Faunal Remains. In Archaeological Investigations at Logan’s Fort, Lincoln County, Kentucky, by Kim A. McBride and W. Stephen McBride, pp. 80–94. Research Report No. 3. Kentucky Archaeological Survey, Lexington.
Day, Grant L., and R. Berle Clay 2000 A Phase III Excavation of the McConnell Homestead Site (15BB75) Bourbon County, Kentucky. Contract Publication Series 00-117. Manuscript, Cultural Resource Analysts, Inc., Lexington, KY.
Faulkner, Charles 2003 Foreword. In An Archaeological Study of Rural Capitalism and Material Life: The Gibbs Farmstead in Southern Appalachia, 1790–1920, by Mark D. Groover, pp. vii–x. Kluwer Academic/Plenum Publishers, New York, NY.
Fay, Robert P. 1980 The Vertebrate Faunal Remains from Liberty Hall, Frankfort, Kentucky. Manuscript, Kentucky Heritage Council, Frankfort.
Groover, Mark D. 2003 An Archaeological Study of Rural Capitalism and Material Life: The Gibbs Farmstead in Southern Appalachia, 1790–1920. Kluwer Academic/Plenum Publishers, New York, NY.
Groover, Mark D. 2005 The Gibbs Farmstead: Household Archaeology in an Internal Periphery. International Journal of Historical Archaeology 9(4):229–289.
Harrington, J. C. 1955 Archaeology as an Auxiliary Science to American History. American Anthropologist 57(6):1121–1130.
Henderson, A. Gwynn 1989 Cultural Resource Assessment of Proposed Additions to the Somerset-Pulaski County Airport. Archaeological Report, No. 212. Program for Cultural Resource Assessment, University of Kentucky, Lexington.
Hilliard, Sam B. 1969 Pork and the Ante-Bellum South: The Geography of Self-Sufficiency. Annals of the Association of American Geographers 59(3):461–480.
Hilliard, Sam B. 1972 Hog Meat and Hoecake: Food Supply in the Old South, 1840–1860. Southern Illinois University Press, Carbondale.
Hilliard, Sam B. 1988 Hog Meat and Cornpone: Foodways in theAntebellum South. In Material Life in America, 1600–1800, Robert Blair St. George, editor, pp. 311–322. Northeastern University Press, Boston, MA.
Hodgetts, Lisa M. 2006 Feast or Famine? Seventeenth-Century English Colonial Diet at Ferryland, Newfoundland. Historical Archaeology 40(4):125–138.
Huser, William A., Jr., and David P. Lynch 2005 Phase II Archaeological Testing of Three Sites at the Somerset Airport, Pulaski County, Kentucky. Report to Somerset-Pulaski County Airport Board, Somerset, from HMB Professional Engineers, Inc., Frankfort, KY.
Jordan-Bychkov, Terry G. 2003 The Upland South: The Making of an American Folk Region and Landscape. Center for American Places, Harrisonburg, VA.
Kentucky Department of Parks 2005 William Whitley House State Historic Site, Kentucky Department of Parks, Kentucky Commerce Cabinet, Franklin <http://parks.ky.gov/statehistoricsites/ww/details.htm>. Accessed 9 April 2007.
Kintigh, Keith W. 1984 Measuring Archaeological Diversity by Comparison with Simulated Assemblages. American Antiquity 49(1):44–54.
Kintigh, Keith W. 1989 Sample Size, Significance, and Measures of Diversity. In Quantifying Diversity in Archaeology, Robert D. Leonard and George T. Jones, editors, pp. 25–36. CUP, New York, NY.
Kintigh, Keith W. 1991 Tools for Quantitative Archaeology. Self published, Tempe, AZ.
Kniffen, Fred B. 1965 Folk Housing: Key to Diffusion. Annals of the American Association of Geographers 55(4):549–577.
Lev-Tov, Justin S. E. 1994 Continuity and Change in Upland South Subsistence Practices: The Gibbs House Site in Knox County, Tennessee. Master’s Thesis, Department of Anthropology, University of Tennessee, Knoxville.
Lev-Tov, Justin S. E. 2004 Implications of Risk Theory for Understanding Nineteenth-Century Slave Diets in the Southern United States. In Behaviour behind Bones: The Zooarchaeology of Ritual, Religion, Status, and Identity, Sharyn Jones O’Day, Wim Van Neer, and Anton Ervynck, editors, pp. 304–317. Proceedings of the 9th Conference of the International Council of Archaeozoology, No. 1. Oxbow Books, London, England, UK.
Lincoln County Deed Books 1827a Deed Book M:253–254, Lincoln County Deed Books, Lincoln County Courthouse, Stanford, KY.
Lincoln County Deed Books 1827b Deed Book S:185, Lincoln County Deed Books, Lincoln County Courthouse, Stanford, KY.
Linebaugh, Donald W., and Michael L. Loughlin 2003 Additional Archaeological Investigations at the William Whitley State Historic Site, Lincoln County, Kentucky. Technical Report No. 470. Program for Archaeological Research, University of Kentucky, Lexington.
Lyman, R. Lee 1987 On Zooarchaeological Measures of Socioeconomic Position and Cost-Efficient Meat Purchases. Historical Archaeology 21(1):58–66.
Madsen, Andrew D., Jay Baril, Katie Becraft, Steve Culler, Daniel Davis, A. Gwynn Henderson, Donald W. Linebaugh, Michael L. Loughlin, Rebecca Madsen, Melissa Milton-Pung, Tanya M. Peres, Jack Rossen, Eric Schlarb, Marcie Venter, and Patrick Wallace 2005 A Phase III Archaeological Data Recovery of the Antebellum Vardeman House Site (15LI88), Lincoln County, Kentucky. Technical Report No. 464. Program for Archaeological Research, University of Kentucky, Lexington.
Martin, Terrence J. 1986 Analysis of the Arbuckle’s Fort, West Virginia, Faunal Remains. Manuscript, Kentucky Archaeological Survey, Lexington.
Mason, Roger D. 1984 Euro-American Pioneer Settlement Systems in the Central Salt River Valley of Northeast Missouri. Publications in Archaeology, No. 2. University of Missouri, Columbia.
McBride, Kim A., and W. Stephen McBride 1990a Historic Period Culture History. In The Archaeology of Kentucky: Past Accomplishments and Future Directions, Vol. 2, David Pollack, editor, pp. 583–747. Kentucky Heritage Council, Frankfort.
McBride, Kim A., and W. Stephen McBride 1990b Historic Period: Previous Archaeological Research. In The Archaeology of Kentucky: Past Accomplishments and Future Directions, Vol. 2., David Pollack, editor, pp. 559–582, Kentucky Heritage Council, Frankfort.
McBride, Kim A., and W. Stephen McBride 1993 From Colonization to the Twentieth Century. In Kentucky Archaeology, R. Barry Lewis, editor, pp. 183–211.Univeristy Press of Kentucky, Lexington.
McCorvie, Mary R. 1987 The Davis, Baldridge, and Huggins Sites: Three Nineteenth-Century Upland South Farmsteads in Perry County, Illinois. Preservation Series, No. 4. American Resources Group, Carbondale, IL.
McKee, Larry 1987 Delineating Ethnicity from the Garbage of Early Virginians: Faunal Remains from the Kingsmill Plantation Slave Quarter. American Archaeology 6(1):31–39.
McKee, Larry 1988 Plantation Food Supply in Nineteenth-Century Tidewater Virginia. Doctoral dissertation, Department of Anthropology, University of California, Berkeley. University Microfilms International, Ann Arbor, MI.
McKee, Larry 1999 Food Supply and Plantation Social Order: An Archaeological Perspective. In “I Too, Am America”: Archaeological Studies of African American Life, Theresa A. Singleton, editor, pp. 218–239. University Press of Virginia, Charlottesville.
McKelway, Henry S., with contributions by Gary D. Crites, Lance K. Greene, and Amy L. Young 2000 Slaves and Master in the Upland South: Data Recovery at the Mabry Site (40KN86), Knox County, Tennessee. Publications in Archaeology, No. 6. Tennessee Department of Transportation, Office of Environmental Planning and Permits, Nashville.
Milton-Ping, Melissa, and Andrew D. Madsen 2005 Prehistoric and Historic Contexts. In A Phase III Archaeological Data Recovery of the Antebellum Vardeman House Site (15LI88), Lincoln County, Kentucky, by Andrew D. Madsen, Jay Baril, Katie Becraft, Steve Culler, Daniel Davis, A. Gwynn Henderson, Donald W. Linebaugh, Michael L. Loughlin, Rebecca Madsen, Melissa Milton-Pung, Tanya M. Peres, Jack Rossen, Eric Schlarb, Marcie Venter, and Patrick Wallace, pp. 29–60. Technical Report No. 464. Program for Archaeological Research, University of Kentucky, Lexington.
Mitchell, Robert D. 1972 Agricultural Reorganization: Origin and Diffusion in the Upper South before 1860. In International Geography, Vol. 12, W. Peter Adams and Frederick M. Helleiner, editors, pp. 740–742. University of Toronto Press, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
Mitchell, Robert D. 1978 The Formation of EarlyAmerican Cultural Regions: An Interpretation. In European Settlement and Development in North America: Essays on Geographical Change in Honour and Memory of Andrew Hill Clark, James R. Gibson, editor, pp. 66–90. University of Toronto Press, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
Newton, Milton B. 1974 Cultural Preadptation and the Upland South. Geoscience and Man 5:143–154.
Noël Hume, Ivor 1969 Artifacts of Colonial America. Vintage Books, New York, NY.
O’Brien, Michael J., and Teresita Majewski 1989 Wealth and Status in the Upper South Socioeconomic System of Northeastern Missouri. Historical Archaeology 23(2):60–95.
O’Malley, Nancy 1999 Archaeological Investigations of Site 15LI55 at the William Whitley State Historic Site, Lincoln County, Kentucky (TPWW0010). Technical Report No. 427. Program for Archaeological Research, University of Kentucky, Lexington.
Orser, Charles E., Jr. 1987 Plantation Status and Consumer Choice: A Materialist Framework for Historical Archaeology. In Consumer Choice in Historical Archaeology, Suzanne M. Spencer-Wood, editor, pp. 121–137. Plenum Press, New York, NY.
Otto, John Solomon 1980 Race and Class on Antebellum Plantations. In Archaeological Perspectives on Ethnicity in America, Robert L. Schuyler, editor, pp. 3–13. Baywood Publishing Company, Farmingdale, NY.
Owens, Leslie H. 1976 This Species of Property: Slave Life and Culture in the Old South. Oxford University Press, Oxford, England, UK.
Owsley, Frank L. 1949 Plain Folk of the Old South. Louisiana State University Press, Baton Rouge.
Patterson, Judith A. 1998 Dietary Patterning at an Upland South Plantation: The Ramsey House Site (40KN120), Knox County, Tennessee. Master’s Thesis, Department of Anthropology, University of Tennessee, Knoxville.
Peres, Tanya M. 2002 Analysis of the Faunal Assemblage from the William Whitley House (15LI55), Kentucky. Manuscript, Program for Archaeological Research, University of Kentucky, Lexington.
Peres, Tanya M. 2003a A Phase II Archaeological Evaluation of Site 5BH212, Associated with the KY11 Project, Bath County, Kentucky. Technical Report No. 462. Program for Archaeological Research, University of Kentucky, Lexington.
Peres, Tanya M. 2003b Zooarchaeological Remains from the Cowan Farmstead (15PU234), Pulaski County, Kentucky. Technical Report No. 506. Program for Archaeological Research, University of Kentucky, Lexington.
Peres, Tanya M. 2005 Zooarchaeological Remains from the Vardeman House. In A Phase III Archaeological Data Recovery of the Antebellum Vardeman House Site (15LI88), Lincoln County, Kentucky, by Madsen, Andrew D., Jay Baril, Katie Becraft, Steve Culler, Daniel Davis, A. Gwynn Henderson, Donald W. Linebaugh, Michael L. Loughlin, Rebecca Madsen, Melissa Milton-Pung, Tanya M. Peres, Jack Rossen, Eric Schlarb, Marcie Venter, and Patrick Wallace, pp. 389–424. Technical Report No. 464. Program for Archaeological Research, University of Kentucky, Lexington.
Perkins, Elizabeth A. 1991 The Consumer Frontier: Household Consumption in Early Kentucky. The Journal of American History 78(2):486–510.
Poe, Tracy N. 1999 The Origins of Soul Food in Black Urban Identity: Chicago, 1915–1947. American Studies International 37(1):4–34.
Poe, Tracy N. 2001 The Labour and Leisure of Food Production as a Mode of Ethnic Identity Building among Italians in Chicago, 1890–1940. Rethinking History 5(1):131–148.
Power, Richard Lyle 1953 Planting Corn Belt Culture: The Impress of the Upland Southerner and Yankee in the Old Northwest. Indiana Historical Society, Indianapolis.
Price, Cynthia R. 1985 Patterns of Cultural Behavior and Intra-Site Distributions of Faunal Remains at the Widow Harris Site. Historical Archaeology 19(2):40–56.
Reitz, Elizabeth J. 1986 Urban/Rural Contrasts in Vertebrate Fauna from the Southern Atlantic Coastal Plain. Historical Archaeology 20(2):47–58.
Reitz, Elizabeth J. 1987 Vertebrate Fauna and Socioeconomic Status. In Consumer Choice in Historical Archaeology, Suzanne M. Spencer-Wood, editor, pp.101–119. Plenum Press, New York, NY.
Reitz, Elizabeth J., and Nicholas Honerkamp 1983 British Colonial Subsistence Strategy on the Southeastern Coastal Plain. Historical Archaeology 17(2):4–26.
Reitz, Elizabeth J., Barbara L. Ruff, and Martha A. Zierden 2006 Pigs in Charleston, South Carolina: Using Specimen Counts to Consider Status. Historical Archaeology 40(4):104–124.
Reitz, Elizabeth J., and Margaret C. Scarry 1985 Reconstructing Historic Subsistence with an Example from Sixteenth Century Spanish Florida. The Society for Historical Archaeology, Special Publications Series, No. 3. California, PA.
Rhode, David 1988 Measurement of Archaeological Diversity and the Sample-Size Effect. American Antiquity 53(4):708–716.
Rossen, Jack 2003 Appendix C: Archaeobotanical Report. Botanical Remains from Features 10, 11, and 12 at Site 15BH212, Bath County, Kentucky. In A Phase II Archaeological Evaluation of Site 5BH212, Associated with the KY11 Project, Bath County, Kentucky, by Tanya M. Peres, pp. C.1–13. Technical Report No. 462. Program for Archaeological Research, University of Kentucky, Lexington.
Schulz, Peter D., and Sherri M. Gust 1983 Faunal Remains and Social Status in Nineteenth-Century Sacramento. Historical Archaeology 17(1):44–53.
Schwab, Eugene L. 1973 Travels in the Old South. University of Kentucky Press, Lexington.
Scott, Elizabeth M. 2001 Food and Social Relations at Nina Plantation. American Anthropologist 103(3):671–691.
Singleton, Theresa 1995 The Archaeology of Slavery in North America. Annual Review of Anthropology 24:119–140.
Spencer-Wood, Suzanne M. 1987 Introduction. In Consumer Choice in Historical Archaeology, Suzanne M. Spencer-Wood, editor, pp. 1–24. Plenum Press, New York, NY.
Stothers, David M., and Patrick M. Tucker 2002 The Dunlap Farmstead: A Market-Dependent Farm in the Early History of the Maumee Valley of Ohio. Archaeology of Eastern North America 30:155–188.
Sussenbach, Tom 2000 Phase II Archaeological Investigations at the Vardeman Homeplace Site (15LI88) in the Proposed Cedar Creek Lake Impoundment Area, Lincoln County, Kentucky. Report of Investigation, No. 57. Sterling Archaeological Consultants, Inc., Winchester, KY.
Tate, Roger D. 1992 Pulaski County. In The Kentucky Encyclopedia, J. E. Kleber, editor, pp. 747–749. University Press of Kentucky, Lexington.
Tibbals, Alma Owens 1952 A History of Pulaski County Kentucky. Grace Owens, Bagdad, KY.
Torma, Carolyn, Camille Wells, and Thomason and Associates 1985 Architectural and Historical Sites of Pulaski County. Kentucky Heritage Council, Frankfort.
Tuma, Michael W. 2000 Faunal Analysis for Site 15BB75. In A Phase III Excavation of the McConnell Homestead Site (15BB75) Bourbon County, Kentucky, Grant L. Day and R. Berle Clay, editors, pp. 10.83–10.133. Contract Publication Series 00-117. Manuscript, Cultural Resource Analysts, Inc., Lexington, KY.
United States Bureau of the Census 1860 United States Census of Agriculture: 1860. U.S. Department of Commerce, Washington, DC.
VanDerwarker, Amber M. 2006 Farming, Hunting, and Fishing in the Olmec World. University of Texas Press, Austin.
Walters, Matthew 1985 Faunal Remains at Waveland (15FA177), Fayette County, Kentucky. Proceedings of the Symposium on Ohio Valley Urban and Historic Archaeology 3:145–150.
Young, Amy Lambeck 1995a Archaeology at Locust Grove Plantation, Jefferson County, Kentucky. In Current Archaeological Research in Kentucky: Vol. 3, John F. Doershuk, Christopher A. Bergman, and David Pollack, editors, pp. 279–296. Kentucky Heritage Council, Frankfort.
Young, Amy Lambeck 1995b Risk and Material Conditions of African American slaves at Locust Grove: An Archaeological Perspective. Doctoral dissertation, Department of Anthropology, University of Tennessee, Knoxville.
Young, Amy Lambeck 1997 Cellars and African-American Slave Sites: New Data from an Upland South Plantation. Midcontinental Journal of Archaeology 22(1):95–115.
Young, Amy Lambeck, Susan C. Andrews, and Philip J. Carr 1995 Ceramics and Slave Lifeways at Locust Grove Plantation. In Historical Archaeology in Kentucky, Kim A. McBride, W. Stephen McBride, and David Pollack, editors, pp. 253–264. Kentucky Heritage Council, Frankfort.
Young, Amy Lambeck, Philip J. Carr, and Joseph E. Granger 1998 How Historical Archaeology Works: A Case Study of Slave Houses at Locust Grove. The Register of the Kentucky Historical Society 96(2):167–194.
Young, Amy Lynne 1993 Slave Subsistence at the Upper South Mabry Site, East Tennessee: Regional Variability in Plantation Diet of the Southeastern United States. Master’s thesis, Department of Anthropology, University of Tennessee, Knoxville.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
About this article
Cite this article
Peres, T.M. Foodways, Economic Status, and the Antebellum Upland South in Central Kentucky. Hist Arch 42, 88–104 (2008). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF03377156
Accepted:
Published:
Issue Date:
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/BF03377156