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ASSESSING THE FREQUENCY DISPERSION INFLUENCE ON THE SOLITARY-WAVE INTERACTION WITH A CONSTANT SLOPING BEACH

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Abstract

This article focuses on the effect of frequency dispersion on the wave run-up height and the characteristics of the surface waves reflected from a coastal slope. Calculations are performed within the framework of nonlinear dispersive and nondispersive shallow water models using the original boundary conditions on a moving shoreline. A case study of the problem of solitary wave run-up on flat coastal slopes with parameters close to the characteristics of one of the Kamchatka bays shows that the nondispersive model overestimates the maximum run-up and amplitudes of the reflected waves by 10–20%.

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Federal Research Center for Information and Computing Technologies, 630090, Novosibirsk, Russia

    O. I. Gusev, G. S. Khakimzyanov & L. B. Chubarov

  2. Novosibirsk National Research State University, 630090, Novosibirsk, Russia

    O. I. Gusev, G. S. Khakimzyanov & L. B. Chubarov

  3. Univ. Grenoble Alpes, Univ. SavoieMont Blanc, CNRS, LAMA, 73000, Chambéry, France

    D. Dutykh

Authors
  1. O. I. Gusev
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  2. G. S. Khakimzyanov
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  3. L. B. Chubarov
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  4. D. Dutykh
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Corresponding author

Correspondence to L. B. Chubarov.

Additional information

Translated from Prikladnaya Mekhanika i Tekhnicheskaya Fizika, 2021, Vol. 62, No. 4, pp. 114-123. https://doi.org/10.15372/PMTF20210411.

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Gusev, O.I., Khakimzyanov, G.S., Chubarov, L.B. et al. ASSESSING THE FREQUENCY DISPERSION INFLUENCE ON THE SOLITARY-WAVE INTERACTION WITH A CONSTANT SLOPING BEACH. J Appl Mech Tech Phy 62, 624–632 (2021). https://doi.org/10.1134/S0021894421040118

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1134/S0021894421040118

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