Abstract
Dispersive effects during long wave run-up on a plane beach are studied. We take advantage of experimental data collection of different wave types (single pulses, sinusoidal waves, bi-harmonic waves, and frequency modulated wave trains) and simulate their run-up using two models: (i) nondispersive nonlinear shallow water theory and (ii) dispersive Boussinesq-type model based on the modified Peregrine system. It is shown, that for long positive pulses, dispersive effects are not so important and nonlinear shallow water theory can be used. However, for periodic sinusoidal and bi-harmonic pulses of the same period, the dispersive effects result in significant wave transformation during its propagation but do not have a strong impact on its maximal run-up height. Overall, for maximum wave run-up height, we could not find a preference of dispersive model against the nondispersive one, and, therefore, suggest using nonlinear shallow water model for longwave run-up height estimation.
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Acknowledgements
Numerical simulation of wake-like wave trains was carried out with a financial support from Russian Science Foundation grant 16-17-00041, simulation of other wave types was supported by ETAG grant PUT1378. The experimental data were obtained within Hydralab IV Grant HyIV-FZK-03. Authors also thank the PHC PARROT project No 37456YM, which funded the authors’ visits to France and Estonia and allowed this collaboration.
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Abdalazeez, A., Didenkulova, I., Dutykh, D. (2020). Dispersive Effects During Long Wave Run-up on a Plane Beach. In: Fernandes, F., Malheiro, A., Chaminé, H. (eds) Advances in Natural Hazards and Hydrological Risks: Meeting the Challenge. Advances in Science, Technology & Innovation. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-34397-2_28
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-34397-2_28
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