Abstract
Textile fibre degradation can be due to many factors. The most common cause is light exposure, but upon the lifespan of a textile, many other environmental factors are to be taken into account. This study focuses on the role of atmospheric compounds—both particulate and gaseous species—on natural textiles ageing, more specifically cotton, silk and wool. To achieve this, reference samples of textiles were exposed to contrasted environments (marine, urban and semi-rural museums and historical buildings) for natural ageing. These conditions were also reproduced in an experimental chamber dedicated to the study of the impact of airborne pollutants on heritage materials. Experimental ageing allowed to highlight degradation mechanisms for each fibre: SO2 and HCOOH cause the cleavage of cotton's glyosidic links and silk’s peptide bonds, while NO2 promotes the oxidation of the fibres. The most harmful pollutant towards cotton is NO2 since it causes both its oxidation and hydrolysis. The case of wool is more complicated: HCOOH provokes peptide link cleavage (similarly to silk) but this fibre is less sensitive to SO2 attacks than silk and even seems to be protected against future alterations after having been firstly exposed to this pollutant. In any case, this experimental study evidences that damages caused by gaseous pollutants are fostered by the presence of particles, regardless of the chemical composition of the particle coating.
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Acknowledgements
The authors are particularly grateful to Béatrice de Chancel-Bardelot (Cluny Museum), Vincent Cochet (Château de Fontainebleau), Christophe Niedziocha and Caroline Bahuau (Centre des Monuments Nationaux / Villa Kérylos). By opening the doors of their monuments and allowing the authors to set monitoring devices and collect samples, they made this study possible.
The authors want to thank Dr. Anne-Laurence Dupont (CRCC, CNRS, MNHN), Pr. Ludovic Bellot-Gurlet (Monaris, Sorbonne University), Dr. Mohamed Dallel (LRMH) and Pr. Laurent Ibos (CERTES, University Paris Est of Creteil) for the accesses to analytical techniques (SEC, Raman and FTIR spectroscopy) and helpful discussions.
The «Direction Régionale des Affaires Culturelles Provence-Alpes Côte d’Azur » (DRAC PACA), the « Etablissement Public château de Fontainebleau » and the « Direction Générale des Patrimoines (DGP) - Ministère de la Culture » which have supported this research are also acknowledged.
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AC and SA supervised the study. AC and PU performed sampling, on-site manipulation and lab-experiment. AC and PU wrote the manuscript. SA revised the manuscript. All authors read and approved the final manuscript.
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Highlights
The ageing of textiles was studied in French cultural heritage sites with contrasted environments.
Realistic ageing of textiles was reproduced in an experimental chamber.
The SO2, NO2 and HCOOH levels in the chamber were derived from the in situ environmental study.
Degradation mechanisms for cotton, silk and wool due to particulate and gaseous species are described.
Low-concentration experiments provide reliable information about ageing of cultural heritage materials.
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Uring, P., Chabas, A. & Alfaro, S.C. Textile ageing due to atmospheric gases and particles in indoor cultural heritage. Environ Sci Pollut Res 28, 66340–66354 (2021). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11356-021-15274-7
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s11356-021-15274-7