Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

Spezielle Kosmetika

  • Chapter
Kosmetische Dermatologie

  • 407 Accesses

Zusammenfassung

Das Wort Cosmeceutical setzt sich zusammen aus den Begriffen Cosmeticum und Pharmaceutical. Es stammt aus den USA und beinhaltet, wie der Name sagt, Substanzen, die in ihrer Wirkung zwischen einem klassischen Kosmetikum und einem Medikament liegen. Der Begriff ist vergleichbar mit demjenigen von „functional foods“, die auch eine massiv stärkere Wirkung aufweisen als die in der Natur vorkommenden Nahrungsmittel.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Log in via an institution
Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 54.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Preview

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

Literatur

  • Adams RM, Maibach HI (1985) A five-year study of cosmetic reactions. J Am Acad Dermatol 13: 1062–1069.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Alster TS, West TB (1998) Effect of topical vitamin C on postoperative carbon dioxide laser resurfacing erythema. Dermatol. Surg 24: 331–334.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Barciszewski Suresh J, Rattan SJS (1999). Kinetin — 45 years on Plant Science 148: 37–45.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Bergler R, Hoff T (2001) Psychologie des ersten Eindrucks. Die Sprache der Haare. Deutscher Instituts-Verlag, Köln.

    Google Scholar 

  • Berne B, Vahlquist A (1984) UV treatment of uraemic pruritus reduces the vitamin A content of the skin. Eur J Clin Invest 14/3: 203–206.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Biesalski HK, Hemmes C, Hopfenmuller W, Schmid C, Gollnick HP (1996) Effects of controlled exposure of sunlight on plasma and skin levels of beta-carotene. Free Radic Res 24: 215–224.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Biesalski HK, Obermueller-Jevic UC (2001) UV light, beta-carotene and human skin — beneficial and potentially harmful effects. Arch Biochem Biophys 389: 1–6.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Billhimer WL et al. (1996) Results of clinical trial comparing 1% pyrithione zinc and 2% ketoconazole shampoos. Cosmetic Dermatology 9: 34–39.

    Google Scholar 

  • Böllert V, Seidel W (1995) Haarwaschmittel. In: Umbach W (Hrsg) Kosmetik. Entwicklung, Herstellung und Anwendung kosmetischer Mittel, 2. Aufl. Thieme, Stuttgart, S. 220–240.

    Google Scholar 

  • Brunke EJ (1994) persönliche Mitteilung. Holzminden.

    Google Scholar 

  • Busch P, Fischer D (1991) Methode zur vereinfachten Bestimmung der Zug-Dehnungseigenschaften von Haaren. Parfümerie und Kosmetik 72: 74–81.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Clauser G, Arnold W (1960) Die Anwendung pharmako-dynamisch neutraler Substanzen: das sog. Placebo-Problem. Ergebnisse der inneren Medizin und Kinderheilkunde 13: 305–351.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Dawber R (1996a) Hair: Its structure and response to cosmetic preparations. Clin Dermatol 14: 105–112.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Dawber R (1996b) Shampoos — scientific basis and clinical aspects. International Congress and Symposium Series 216. The Royal Society of Medicine Press Limited, London.

    Google Scholar 

  • De Fabo FB, Noonan E (1990) Biologically effective doses of sunlight for immune suppression at various latitudes and their relationship to changes in stratospheric ozone. Photochem Photobiol 52/4: 811–817.

    Google Scholar 

  • Dierssen I (1997) Düfte helfen heilen, Handbuch der Aromatherapie. Hallwag, Bern.

    Google Scholar 

  • Eberlein-König B, Placek M (1998) Protective effect against sunburn of combined systemic ascorbic acid and d-alpha tocopherol. J Am Acad Dermatol 38: 45–48.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Eggensberger H (1995a) Multiaktive Wirkstoffe für Kosmetika. Verlag für chemische Industrie H. Ziolkowsky, Augsburg.

    Google Scholar 

  • Eggensberger H (1995b) Pflanzliche Wirkstoffe für Kosmetika. Melcher, Heidelberg München.

    Google Scholar 

  • Fewings J, Menné T (1999). An update of the risk for methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MI) with focus on rinse-off products. Contact Dermatitis 41: 1–13.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Fiegenbaum A, Biesalski HK (1997) Pharmacokinetics of beta carotene serum levels and recall antigen testing during artificial UVA and UVB/UVA exposure. Arch Dermatol Res 289: 293–294.

    Google Scholar 

  • Fisher GJ, Datta SC, Talwar HS et al. (1996) Molecular basis of sun-induced premature skin ageing and retinoid antagonism. Nature 379: 335–339.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Fiume MZ (2001) Final report on the safety assessment of biotin. Int J Toxicol 20 (Suppl 4): 1–12.

    Google Scholar 

  • Fuchs J, Kern H (1994) Evaluation of the photoprotective effect of oral vitamin E supplementation. Arch Dermatol 130/10: 1257–1261.

    Google Scholar 

  • Fuller C, Falkner H (1992) Effect of beta-carotene supplementation on photosuppression of delayed-type hypersensitivity in normal young men. Am J Clin Nutr 56/4: 684–690.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gabard B (1999) Sunscreens. In: Eisner, Merk (eds) Cosmetics. Controlled Efficacy Studies. Maibach. Springer, Berlin Heidelberg New York Tokio.

    Google Scholar 

  • Garmyn M, Ribaya-Mercado JD, Rüssel RM, Bhawan J, Gilchrest BA (1995) Effect of beta-carotene supplementation on the human sunburn reaction. Exp Dermatol 4: 104–111.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Gildemeister E, Hoffmann Fr (1961–1968) Die ätherischen Öle I–VII. Akademie Verlag, Berlin.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gloor M, Gallasch G (1991) Haarwäsche und Haarwaschmittel. In: Orfanos CE (Hrsg) Haar und Haarkrankheiten, 2. Aufl. Gustav Fischer, Stuttgart, S. 931–959.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gollnick HP, Hopfenmüller W, Hemmes C et al. (1996) Systemic beta carotene plus topical UV-sunscreen are an optimal protection against harmful effects of natural UV-sunlight: results of the Berlin-Eilath study. Eur J Dermatol 6: 200–205.

    Google Scholar 

  • Greul A (1999) Effect of beta-carotene on MMP expression. Diploma.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gruber J et al. (2001 ) The use of x-ray fluorescent spectroscopy to study the influence of cationic polymers on silicone oil deposition from shampoo. J Cosm. Sci 52: 131–136.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Harris B (1997) The Aromatherapy Database, Research into the physiological and psychological properties of essential oils and their components, essential oil resource consultants. Inc St Helier, Jersey.

    Google Scholar 

  • Hausen (1997) Kontaktallergie gegen Teebaumöl. Arznei-Telegramm 23.

    Google Scholar 

  • Hausen BM (1998) Kontakt-Allergie auf Teebaum-Öl und Ascaridol Akt Derm 24: 60–62.

    Google Scholar 

  • Hay RJ, Graham-Brown RAC (1997). Dandruff and seborrhoic dermatitis: causes and management. Clin Exp Dermatol 22: 3–6.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Jellinek JS (1996) Positive und negative Placeboeffekte und ihre Bedeutung in der Kosmetik und in der Parfümerie. Dragoco report 43: 85–101.

    Google Scholar 

  • Jellinek JS (2000) Menschliche Pheromone: ein Durchbruch in der Parfümerie? Dragoco Report 47: 5–28.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kelle DS, Branch LB (1991) Dietary a-linolenic acid and immunocompetence in humans. Am J Clin Nutr 53: 40–46.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kelley DS, Nelson GJ (1991) Salmon diet and human immune status. EurJ Clin Nutr 46: 397–404.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kindl G, Raab W (1998) Licht und Haut. Bräunung — Lichtschutz — Pflege, 4. Aufl. Govi, Eschborn.

    Google Scholar 

  • Klein M (2000) AFA’s provide novel approach to topical rejuvenation. Dermatology Times.

    Google Scholar 

  • Korting HC, Schaller M (1994) Allergische Kontaktdermatitis auf etherische Öle bei Aromatherapie. Dia-Klinik, XIV 14. Fortbildungs-woche für praktische Dermatologie und Venerologie, München.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kowalska E (1992) Influence of kinetin (6 furfulyl-amino-purin) on human fibroblasts in the cell culture. Folia Morphol 51: 109–118.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • La Ruche G, Cesarini JP (1991) Protective effect of oral selenium plus copper associated with vitamin complex on sunburn cell formation in human skin. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed 6: 232–235.

    Google Scholar 

  • Maibach H, Moy R, Rubin M, Alster TS (2000) Recent innovations in the treatment of photoaged skin: N6 Furfuryladenin. Skin and Allergy News: 3-14.

    Google Scholar 

  • McCullough J (1999) Furfuryladenine — A new antiaging topical: research and clinical eperience. Skin and Allergy News: 3-5.

    Google Scholar 

  • Nakamura (1998) persönliche Mitteilung.

    Google Scholar 

  • Neale R, Rüssel A (1997) Sun exposure, sunscreen and their effects on epidermal Langerhans cells. Photochem Photobiol 66/2: 260–264.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Okada (1998) persönliche Mitteilung.

    Google Scholar 

  • Orengo IF, Black HS, Wolf JE (1992) Influence of fish oil supplementation on the minimal erythema dose in humans. Arch Dermatol Res 284/4: 219–221.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Orr MF, McSwain B (1952) The effect of kinetin upon epithelium and fibroblasts in tissue culture. Cancer 10: 617–624.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Powers DH (1956) Development, evaluation and marketing of shampoos. Drug and Cosmetics Industry 79: 616–695.

    Google Scholar 

  • Prince MR, Frisoli JK (1993) Beta-carotene accumulation in serum and skin. Am J Clin Nutr 57/2: 175–181.

    Google Scholar 

  • Raab W (1990) Lichtfibel. Sonne — Bräunung — Pigmentstörungen. Fischer, Stuttgart.

    Google Scholar 

  • Raab W (1994a) Sonnenschutz durch Mikropigmente. Apotheken J 16: 14–18.

    Google Scholar 

  • Raab W (1994b) Sonnenschutz: Aufgaben des Dermatologen. TW Dermatologie 24: 284–290.

    Google Scholar 

  • Raab W (1994c) Kinder und Sonnenschutz. PZ 139: 43–48.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Raab W (1998) Ultraviolettstrahlung A. Bewährtes — Neues — Schutz. Apotheken J 20: 160–164.

    Google Scholar 

  • Rattan SJS, Clark BFC (1994) Kinetin delays the onset of aging characteristics human fibroflasts. Biochem Biophys Res Commun 201: 665–672.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Rees J (1995) Parfümierung kann schaden, immer mehr Menschen entwickeln Allergien gegen Duftstoffe. Frankfurter Rundschau 251, 28.10.1995.

    Google Scholar 

  • Rhodes LE (2001) Ultraviolet-B-induced erythema is mediated by nitric oxide and prostaglandin E2 in combination. J Invest Dermatol 117/4: 880–885.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Rhodes LE, Durham BH, Fraser WD (1995) Dietary fish oil reduces basal and ultraviolet B-generated PGE2 levels in skin and increases the threshold to provocation of polymorphic light eruption. J Invest Dermatol 105/4: 532–535.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Rhodes LE, O’Farrell S, Jackson MJ (1992) Dietary fish oil supplementation in human reduces UVB erythemal sensitivity but increases epidermal lipid peroxidation. Arch Dermatol Res 284: 219–221.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ribaya-Mercado JD, Garmyn M, Gilchrest BA, Russell RM (1995) Skin lycopene is destroyed preferentially over beta-carotene during ultraviolet irradiation in humans. J Nutr 125: 1854–1859.

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Rook AR, Dawber R (1995) Haarkrankheiten. Diagnose und Therapie. Deutsche Ausgabe herausgegeben von Bunse TM u. Merk HF. Blackwell Wissenschafts-Verlag, Berlin Wien.

    Google Scholar 

  • Rushton H, Gummer CL, Flasch H (1994) 2-in-1 shampoo technology: state of the art shampoo and conditioner in one. Skin Pharmacology 7: 78–83.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Schilcher H (1984) Etherische Öle. Wirkungen und Nebenwirkungen. Deutsche Apothekerzeitung 124: 1433–1442.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Schnaubelt K (1995) Neue Aromatherapie, Gesundheit und Wohlbefinden durch ätherische Öle. VGS, Köln.

    Google Scholar 

  • Senetec PLC Pat. No. 5.317.089, 5.602.139.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sharma SP, Kaur P, Rattan SJS (1995) Plant growth hormon kinetin delays aging, prolongs the life span and slows down development of the fruitfly Zapronius paravitiger. Biochem Biophys Res Commun 216: 1067–1071.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Sharma SP, Kaur J, Rattan SJS (1997) Increased longevity of kinetin-fed Zapronius fruitflies is accompanied by their reduced fecundity and enhanced catalase activity. Biochem Mol Biol Int 41: 869–875.

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Stahl W, Heinrich U (1998) Increased dermal carotenoid levels assessed by noninvasive reflection spectrophotometry correlate with serum levels in women ingesting Betatene. J Nutr 128/5: 903–907.

    Google Scholar 

  • Tisserand R, Balacs T (1995) Essential Oil Safety, a guide for health care professionals. Churchill Livingstone, London.

    Google Scholar 

  • Tonno O, Ota Y (2000) Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramide as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol 143: 524–531.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Trüeb RM (1998) Haarwaschmittel (Shampoos). Zusammensetzung und klinische Anwendungen. Hautarzt 49: 895–901.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Trüeb RM und Schweizerische Arbeitsgruppe für Trichologie (2001) The value of hair cosmetics and pharmaceutics. Dermatology 202: 275–282.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • US Patent Klein 6.197.317. Composition and method for the treatment of skin.

    Google Scholar 

  • Vahlquist A, Lee JB (1982) Vitamin A in human skin: II Concentrations of carotene, retinol and dehydroretinol in various components of normal skin. J Invest Dermatol 79/2: 94–97.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Wabner D (1993) Purity and pesticides. Int J Aromatherapy 5: 27–29.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wabner D (1995) How pure are our oils. Symposium Aromatherapy today, New York, pp 63-68.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wabner D (1996) Sind etherische Öle giftig — die Rolle der Toxikologie in der Aromatherapie. Forum f Aromatherapie und Aromapflege 10: 39–48.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wabner D (1998) Etherische Öle in der Therapie — Eine Einführung. Schriftenreihe Etherische Öle für Therapie, Kosmetik und Parfümerie, Nr. 2. Garching b. München.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wabner D (1999a) Psychische Wirkungen von etherischen Ölen — das therapeutische Parfüm. Schriftenreihe Etherische Öle für Therapie, Kosmetik und Parfümerie, Nr. 4. Garching b München.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wabner D (1999b) Aromatherapie — Anspruch und Wirklichkeit. Schriftenreihe Etherische Öle für Therapie, Kosmetik und Parfü-merie, Nr. 7. Garching b München.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wabner D (2003) Die aromatische Haus-Apotheke — Einsatz von etherischen Ölen zur Desinfektion, bei Wundheilung, Hautproblemen, Erkältungskrankheiten etc. Schriftenreihe Etherische Öle für Therapie, Kosmetik und Parfumerie, Nr. 3. Garching b. München.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wabner D (2000) Magische Mischungen? Zum in die Haut fahren! Aroma-Kosmetik. Schriftenreihe Etherische Öle für Therapie, Kosmetik und Parfümerie, Nr. 9. Garching b München.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wabner D (2002) Aroma-Kosmetik, die Arbeit mit etherischen Ölen. Kosmetische Praxis, Februar 2002: 12–15.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wabner D, Hammer-Klafke A, Zimmermann E (1999) Portraits der wichtigsten etherischen Öle. Schriftenreihe Etherische Öle für Therapie, Kosmetik und Parfümerie, Nr. 8. Garching b München.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wabner D, Wurdack I (1989) Rose Oil, its use in therapy and cosmetics. Int J Aromatherapy 2: 28–31.

    Google Scholar 

  • Werninghaus K, Meydani M, Bhawan J (1998) Modulation of UV-light-induced skin inflammation by D-alpha-tocopherol and L-ascorbic acid: a clinical study using solar simulated radiation. Free Radic Biol Med 9: 1006–1012.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wu D, Meydani M (1999) Effect of dietary supplementation with black current seed oil on the immune response of healthy elderly subjects. Am J Clin Nutr 70: 536–543.

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

Download references

Authors
  1. H. Gerny
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. A. Markowetz
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  3. D. Wabner
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  4. W. Raab
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  5. H. K. Biesalski
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  6. U. Gola
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2004 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Gerny, H., Markowetz, A., Wabner, D., Raab, W., Biesalski, H.K., Gola, U. (2004). Spezielle Kosmetika. In: Kosmetische Dermatologie. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-662-08186-0_5

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-662-08186-0_5

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-662-08187-7

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-662-08186-0

  • eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive

Publish with us

Policies and ethics

Search

Navigation