Abstract
Wave models which can be used to determine design wave conditions for coastal and offshore structures are reviewed. Comparisons are made between model results and wave measurements and between results from different models. Overall, the accuracy of the wave models is approximately 1–2 meters but, due to a Zack of measured wave data, even this number is an estimate. There is a need to evaluate directional spectra models by comparison with measured wave energy directional spectra.
This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Preview
Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.
References
Baer, L. 1962. An experiment in numerical forecasting of deep water ocean waves, Lockheed Missile and Space Company Report LMSC-801296, San Diego, California
Barnett, T. P. 1968. On the generation, dissipation, and prediction of ocean wind waves, J. Geophys. Res., 73 (2): 513–529.
Bea, R. G. 1974. Gulf of Mexico hurricane wave heights, Offshore Technology Conference, Houston, Texas, paper 2110.
Borgman, L. E. and D. T. Resio. 1977. Extremal prediction in wave climatology, Ports 77 Conference, Am. Soc. Civ. Engineers, Long Beach, California, Vol. 1, 394–412.
Bretschneider, C. L. 1952. Revised wave forecasting relationships. In: Proceedings of 2nd Conference on Coastal Engineering. Houston.
Bretschneider, C. L. 1963. Significant wave hindcasts for Station J North Atlantic storm, Technical Report National Engineering Science Company, SN-77–1.
Bretschneider, C. L. 1970. Revisions in wave forecasting, Look Laboratory Report, University of Hawaii.
Cardone, V. J. 1974. Ocean wave prediction: Two decades of progress and future prospects, Soc. of Naval Architects and Marine Engineers Seakeeping Symposium, New York.
Cardone, B. J., W. J. Pierson, and E. G. Ward. 1976. Hindcasting the directional spectra of hurricane generated waves. J. of Petroleum Technology, April, 385–394.
Cardone, V. J. and D. Ross. 1978. State-of-the-art wave prediction methods and data requirements. In: Ocean Wave Climate, M. D. Earle and A. Malahoff (Eds.), Plenum, New York (this volume)
Darbyshire, J. 1959. A further investigation of wind generated waves, Deutsche Hydrographische Zeitschrift, 12(11). 1–13.
Darbyshire, J. 1961. Prediction of wave characteristics over the North Atlantic, J. Inst. Navig., 14: p. 399.
Dattatri, J, 1974. Discussion of extreme wave height distributions over oceans, J. of Waterways Harbors and Coastal Engineering Division, Am. Soc. of Civ. Engineers, WW4, 402–403.
Dexter, P. E. 1974. Tests on some programmed numerical wave forecast models, J. of Phys. Oceanogr., (4(10), 635–644.
Earle, M. D. 1975. Oceanographic design conditions for Diamond Shoals Light Tower, U.S. Naval Oceanographic Office Technical Note 6110–3–75, Washington, D.C.
Earle, M. D. and D. A. Burns. 1975. Oceanographic design conditions for offshore light towers, U.S. Naval Oceanographic Office Technical Note 6110–8–75, Washington, D.C.
Enfield, D. B. 1973. Prediction of hazardous Columbia River Bar conditions, Final Report prepared for Techniques Development Laboratory (National Weather Service), Oregon State University.
Ewing, J. A. 1971. A numerical wave prediction method for the North Atlantic Ocean, Deutsche Hydrographische Zeitschrift, 24(6), 241–261.
Feldhausen, P. H., S. K. Chakrabarti, and B. W. Wilson. 1973. Comparison of wave hindcasts at Weather Station J for North Atlantic Storm of December, 1959, Deutsche Hydrographische Zeitschrift, 26(1), 10–16.
Gelci, R., H. Cazale, and J. Vassal. 1956. Utilisation des diagrammes de propagation â la prévision énergétique de la houle, Bulletin de’information du Comité central d’océanographie et d’études des côtes, number 8.
Gelci, R., H. Cazale, and J. Vassal. 1957. Prévision de la Houle. La méthode des densités spectroangulaires, Bulletin d’information du Comité central d’océanographie et d’études des côtes, number 9.
Gelci, R. and E. Devillaz. 1970. The numerical computation of sea states (with discussions), LaHouille Blanche, 25 (2), 117–136.
Hamilton, R. C. and E. G. Ward. 1974. Ocean data gathering program - quality and reduction of data, Offshore Technology Conference, Houston, Texas, paper 2108A.
Inoue, T. 1967. On the growth of the spectrum of a wind generated sea according to a modified Miles-Phillips mechanism and its application to wave forecasting, Ph.D. Thesis, New York University, New York.
Lazanoff, S. M. and N. Stevenson. 1975. An evaluation of a hemispheric operational wave spectral model, Fleet Numerical Weather Center Technical Note 75–3, Monterey, California.
Patterson, M. M. 1971. Hindcasting hurricane waves in the Gulf of Mexico, Offshore Technology Conference, Houston, Texas, paper 1345.
Patterson, M. M. 1972. Hindcasting hurricane waves in the Gulf of Mexico. J. for Petroleum Engineers, August, 321–328.
Petrauskas, C. and P. M. Aagaard. 1971. Extrapolation of historical data for estimating design wave heights, J. Soc. of Petroleum Engineers, II, 25–35.
Pierson, W. J., G. Neumann, and R. W. James. 1955. Practical Methods for Observing and Forecasting Ocean Waves by Means of Wave Spectra and Statistics, H.O. Publication 603, U.S. Naval Oceanographic Office, Washington, D.C.
Pierson, W. J., L. J. Tick, and L. Baer. 1966. Computer based procedures for preparing global wave forecasts and wind field analyses capable of using wave data obtained by a spacecraft, Sixth Naval Hydrodynamics Symposium, Office of Naval Research, Washington, D.C.
Pore, N. A. and W. S. Richardson. 1969. Second Interim Report on sea and swell forecasting, Weather Bureau Technical Memorandum TDL-13, National Weather Service, Silver Spring, Maryland.
Quayle, R. G. and D. C. Fulbright. 1975. Extreme wind and wave return periods for the U.S. coast, Mariners Weather Log, 19(2), 67–70.
Rabe, K. 1970. The French spectro-angular wave analysis/forecasting program, Fleet Numerical Weather Center Program Note 6, Monterey, California.
Salfi, R. E. and W. J. Pierson, 1977. A verification study of hindcasted wave spectra based on wave data from weather ships J and K and wind data obtained from December 1973 and January 1974 during Skylab. Final report to Spacecraft Oceanography Project, National Environmental Satellite Service, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, Washington, D.C.
Sverdrup, H. U. and W. H. Munk. 1947. Wind Sea and Swell: Theory of Relations for Forecasting, H.O. Publication 601, U.S. Naval Oceanographic Office, Washington, D.C.
Thom, H. C. S. 1967. Toward a universal climatological extreme wind distribution, In: Wind Effects on Buildings and Structures, University of Toronto Press, 669–685.
Thom, H. C. S. 1971. Asymptotic extreme-value distributions of wave heights in the open ocean. J. of Mar. Res., 29(1), 19–26.
Thom, H. C. S. 1973a. Distributions of extreme winds over oceans, J. of Waterways, Harbors and Coastal Engineering Div., Am. Soc. Civ. Engineers, WW1, 1–17.
Thom, H. C. S. 1973b. Extreme wave height distributions over oceans. J. of Waterways, Harbors and Coastal Engineering Div., Am. Soc. Civil Engineers, WW3, 355–373.
U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, 1973. Shore Protection Manual, Vol. 1., U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Fort Belvoir, Virginia.
Ward, E. G. 1974. Ocean data gathering program - An overview, Offshore Technology Conference, Houston, Texas, paper 2108B.
Ward, E. G., D. J. Evans, and J. A. Pompa. 1977. Extreme wave heights along the Atlantic Coast of the United States, Offshore Technology Conference, Houston, Texas, paper 2846.
Wilson, R. W. 1955. Graphical approach to the forecasting of waves in moving fetches. Beach Erosion Board Technical Memorandum No. 73, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Washington, D.C.
Wilson, B. W. 1961. Deep water wave generations by moving wind systems, J. Waterways, Harbors and Coastal Engineering Div., Am. Soc. Civ. Engineers, WW2, 113–141.
Wilson, B. W. 1963. Deep water wave generations by moving wind systems (with discussions), Transactions, Am. Soc. Civ. Engineers, Vol. 128, part 4, 113–148.
Wilson, B. W. 1965. Numerical prediction of ocean waves in the North Atlantic for December 1959, Deutsche Hydrographische Zeitschrift, 18(3), 114–130.
Wilson, B. W. 1966. Design sea and wind conditions for offshore structures, Proceedings of the Offshore Exploration Conference, 666–708.
Wilson, B. W., S. K. Chakrabarti, and P. H. Feldhausen. 1972. Numerical prediction of storm waves and wave spectral densities, In: Fifteenth International Conference on Great Lakes Research, Madison, Wisconsin, abstract only.
Wilson, B. W., S. K. Chakrabarti, and P. H. Feldhausen. 1973. Hindcast of deep-water wave energy spectra for hurricane Audrey of 1957, Offshore Technology Conference, Houston, Texas, paper 1833
Yang, C. Y., M. A. Tayfun, and G. C. Hsiao. 1974. Extreme wave statistics for Delaware coastal water, In: Proceedings of the International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurements and Analysis, Am. Soc. Civ. Engineers, Vol. 1, 352–361.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 1979 Plenum Press, New York
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Earle, M.D. (1979). Practical Determinations of Design Wave Conditions. In: Earle, M.D., Malahoff, A. (eds) Ocean Wave Climate. Marine Science, vol 8. Springer, Boston, MA. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-3399-9_2
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-3399-9_2
Publisher Name: Springer, Boston, MA
Print ISBN: 978-1-4684-3401-9
Online ISBN: 978-1-4684-3399-9
eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive