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Adjusting food practices to climate prescriptions: vegetable gardening as a way to reduce food-related greenhouse gas emissions

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Abstract

During a survey of an experiment that involved using “carbon calculators”, we investigated what people think and what they do when they consider the link between their food and the climate. To what extent do individuals adhere to or reject the “prescriptions” implicitly contained in carbon calculators and passed on by environmental social movements or the authorities. These prescriptions are considered as recommendations or advice drawn up by experts aiming to guide behaviours; they involve reducing reality in a measuring device against which behaviours are gauged (in this case, the quantity of greenhouse gases). Three main levers are envisaged so that households can reduce their food’s impact on the climate: reducing the consumption of meat, eating local and eating in-season produce. However, in opposition to this conception of individuals as rational and free to adapt their practices based on the information available to them, we suggest an analytic framework that takes into consideration the fact that food and eating is embedded in everyday and social relationships. Calculating one’s greenhouse gas emissions (GGE) provokes an intense moment of reflexivity during which routines are called into question and discrepancies between prescriptions and practices emerge. Drawing our inspiration from, on the one hand, the theory of practice, we examine how the prescriptions are connected to practices, and on the other, using a pragmatic approach, we analyse how individuals call into question their food practices to resolve the contradictions they identify, and devise adjustments. We show how people appraise the context globally, which leads them to subvert the logic of the calculator or address the prescriptions more broadly to lend value to other practices to which they attach importance and consider adapted. This enabled us to highlight vegetable gardening and promoting eating locally produced food as favoured adjustments. The qualitative approach allows us to emphasise how the measuring device, rather than supplying a behaviourist model, makes it possible to render more visible the forms of attachment and categories of judgement mobilised, which do not obey strict accounting logics or a formal, narrow rationality, and to examine “what counts when you’re counting”.

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Notes

  1. For the USA, see the census of calculators compiled by Kim & Neff, op. cit.; West et al. 2016; Shirley et al. 2012.; Kenny and Gray 2009 for Ireland, Birnik 2013, Wallén et al. 2004 for Sweden, among others.

  2. The “Personal Carbon Footprint Calculation” was used as the basis for the experiment we studied http://www.bilancarbonepersonnel.org/ consulted on 25 January 2018). It was devised by the French Agency for Environment and Energy Management (ADEME) from 2007; there are now several similar calculators in France offered by consultants and consultancy firms or environmental organisations and all inspired by the ADEME’s “Bilan Carbone”, which since 2011 has been a patented brand owned by the Association Bilan Carbone (ABC). Since then, other calculators have come to the fore, e.g. the ADEME’s “Coach Carbone” and the Fondation pour la Nature et l’Homme. Under the name of “greenApps”, the number of these applications that calculate the carbon footprint of various activities has increased significantly (cf. http://www.greenapps.fr/ consulted on 27 February 2017).

  3. The authors identified and compared a total of 83 calculators that consider the environmental impacts of individual or household behaviours, and 21 of these include dietary choices (Kim & Neff, op. cit.).

  4. Meat is in the top rank of food called into question for its contribution to GGE and reducing its consumption is advised in several prospective scenarios (Agrimonde 2030; Civam Bretagne “Nourrir le monde en 2050” (Feeding the World in 2050). In terms of household consumption, food, according to a 2010 Ipsos/Greeninside survey, represents 22% of GGE, 15% of which is from meat and milk compared with 4% for fruit and vegetables. Furthermore, environmental groups tackling climate change, such as the Climate Action Network (2011), recommend reducing the consumption of meat, especially beef. These recommendations are incorporated in the Bilan Carbone (Carbon Footprint Calculator).

  5. We can cite, in France, the information campaign by the Réseau Action Climat, a member of the Climate Action Network, which launched a campaign in 2008 entitled “Des gaz à effet de serre dans mon assiette” (Greenhouse Gases on my Plate), passed on by the Alsace association Objectif Climat; the Chatham House think-tank that published a report in 2014 linking meat consumption and the impact on the climate (“Livestock – Climate Change’s Forgotten Sector: Global Public Opinion on Meat and Dairy Consumption” https://www.chathamhouse.org/publication/livestock-climate-change-forgotten-sector-global-public-opinion-meat-and-dairy?dm_i=1TY5%2C30JL0%2CBHZILT%2CAUGSP%2C1 consulted in December 2017) and also the American organisation The Environmental Working Group, which in 2011 published a guide, “EWG’s Meat Eaters’ Guide to Climate Change & Health”.

  6. http://www.parc-vosges-nord.fr/ section “Comprendre/Les PNR français”, consulted in December 2017.

  7. For Baudrillard, everyday life “is not only the sum of day-to-day events and actions, the dimension of banality and repetition, it is a system of interpretation” (Baudrillard 1970, p. 33).

  8. Although Plessz et al. (2016) propose a theoretical framework to which we partially refer to analyse the prescriptions in food practices, they do not give a precise definition of the term, but merely distinguish between messages of an instructional nature from public actors and the norms (standards) that individuals adhere to.

  9. In 6 cases out of 16, it was not possible to find a timeslot that suited both partners.

  10. Dubuisson-Quellier and Gojard (2016) obtained similar results with regard to organic food.

  11. Culled cows are those slaughtered after a period of milk production, when they are too old.

  12. However, we should point out that when we consulted the scientific literature available, especially concerning the notion of “food miles” or in other words, the fact that the more miles a product travels during its production and distribution, the greater the impact on the climate and environment (The “RAC – Réseau action climat, (2010) brochure cites a pot of yoghurt), there is no consensus about the virtue of local productions. Transport is not the only aspect to consider; production conditions—extensive or intensive for raising animals, in heated greenhouses or in fields for vegetables—have just as great an effect on the calculation of the GGE of the product under consideration (cf. Pirog et al. (2001); Mundler and Rumpus (2012); Weber and Matthews (2008); Blanke and Burdick (2005). The environmental working group (2011).

  13. One of the households was composed of a company director and a senior manager, and the other a livestock farmer and an executive secretary; however, the latter was setting up an AMAP after participating in the PRNVNs’ experiment.

  14. Cf. Note 8.

  15. Studies measuring GGE from food or other aspects of daily life could be inspired and in return, inspire economic sociology studies on measurements, such as those by Cottereau (2016).

  16. Especially when interviewees mention types of arrangements and compromise with regard to the prescription to eat local, in-season produce.

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Granchamp, L. Adjusting food practices to climate prescriptions: vegetable gardening as a way to reduce food-related greenhouse gas emissions. Rev Agric Food Environ Stud 100, 1–25 (2019). https://doi.org/10.1007/s41130-019-00087-7

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