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A new method to determine directional spectrum of sea waves and its application to wave buoys

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Abstract

A new method is proposed that uses wave elevation and slope measurements in two mutually perpendicular directions to obtain the missing data on the wave curvature needed to determine the full directional spectra of waves in the form of nine coefficients of Fourier series proposed by M.S. Longuet-Higgins and A.A. Sveshnikov. The method description is provided, along with the results of its theoretical and experimental research made in a wave basin. Experimental studies have shown similar results with theoretical calculations, taking into account the instrumental error of measuring instruments. The method errors depending on the sampling interval, wave steepness, and various wave conditions are estimated. Based on these studies the total error in measuring the wave directional spectrum with the proposed method is estimated. In addition, the estimation of the measurement error of the directional spectrum using the proposed method based on measurements made by traditional wave buoy was carried out. The proposed method can also be applied in wire wave probes.

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Availability of data and materials

The authors confirm that the data supporting the findings of this study are available within the article. Raw data of the experimental study obtained in a wave basin are available from corresponding author on request.

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Acknowledgements

The authors would like to thank Krylov State Research Center for the permission to conduct the experimental studies in the wave basin, and Concern CSRI Elektropribor, JSC for providing information on the Storm wave buoy.

Funding

The research was partly supported by the Russian Foundation for Basic Research (Grants Nos. 17-08-00010, 14-08-00308).

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Concern CSRI Elektropribor, JSC, ITMO University, St. Petersburg, Russia

    Dmitriy Gryazin

  2. Krylov State Research Center, St. Petersburg, Russia

    Konstantin Gleb

Authors
  1. Dmitriy Gryazin
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  2. Konstantin Gleb
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Contributions

DG devised the project, the main conceptual ideas and study design. KG worked out almost all of the technical details, and performed the numerical calculations and carried out the experiment in a wave basin. Both DG and KG authors contributed to the final version of the manuscript.

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Correspondence to Konstantin Gleb.

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Gryazin, D., Gleb, K. A new method to determine directional spectrum of sea waves and its application to wave buoys. J. Ocean Eng. Mar. Energy 8, 269–283 (2022). https://doi.org/10.1007/s40722-022-00228-z

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