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Wave height transformation and set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall. Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations, which involve parameters of the porous medium, were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater. The numerical solution is verified with experimental data. The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. In contrast to cases without a seawall, the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater. We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up.

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Correspondence to Ching-piao Tsai  (蔡清标).

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The work was financially supported by The Science Council of Taiwan under Grant No. 95-2221-E-005-154.

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Tsai, Cp., Yu, Ch., Chen, Hb. et al. Wave height transformation and set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall. China Ocean Eng 26, 167–176 (2012). https://doi.org/10.1007/s13344-012-0012-6

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s13344-012-0012-6

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