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Unveiling the Use of Natural and Early Synthetic Dyes in Indonesian Historical Silk Textiles

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Abstract

Dye analysis is an important subject in historical textile research because it helps researchers understand the structural and chemical features of colorants and provides a solid base to determine the date, provenance, and trade of textile artifacts. This study is the first investigation of dyes used in historical silk of Indonesia using high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with a diode array detector and mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-MS). Three Indonesian silk textiles dating from the nineteenth (19th) and twentieth (20th) centuries are selected from the Southeast Asian textile collection of the China National Silk Museum. Dyes are extracted from the representative silk threads of these artifacts and subjected to chromatographic analysis. The characterization results indicated the use of a variety of natural dyes in the studied threads. In particular, madder dye (Rubia spp.), lac dye (Laccifer lacca Kerr.), and Morindone dye (Morinda citrifolia L.) were used for producing red shades, while green yarns were dyed by a combination of indigo and safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) yellow dyes. Furthermore, this study provides the first proposal of the use of saffron (Crocus sativus L.) dye in Indonesian textile dyeing during this period. In addition, Congo Red (C.I. 22,120), Orange I (C.I. 14,600), and Diamond Green B (C.I. 42,000) were identified, signifying the adoption of early synthetic dyes by Indonesian dyers. The current work takes advantage of the sensitivity and reliability of the HPLC-DAD-MS technique in dye analysis in order to give a report on the chemical aspects of coloring materials used in Southeast Asian textiles in the 19th and 20th centuries.

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Acknowledgements

The authors are very grateful to Suyun Gao from Zhejiang Sci-Tech University for the kind support in experimental works, and Long Bo from China National Silk Museum for the great help in morphological characterization. This work was supported by The National Key Research and Development Program of China (Grant number: 2019YFC1521301) and Zhejiang Science and Technology Projects of Cultural Relics Protection (Grant number: 2021016).

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. College of Textile Science and Engineering (International Silk Institute), Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, 310018, China

    Khai Ly Do, Feng Zhao & Miao Su

  2. International Center for Silk and Silk Road Studies, Hangzhou, 310018, China

    Khai Ly Do, Feng Zhao & Miao Su

  3. ZJU-Hangzhou Global Scientific and Technological Innovation Center, Hangzhou, 311200, China

    Asim Mushtaq

  4. China National Silk Museum, Hangzhou, 310002, China

    Jian Liu

  5. School of Art and Archaeology, Zhejiang University, Hangzhou, 310058, China

    Feng Zhao

  6. Shengzhou Innovation Research Institute, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Shaoxing, 312369, China

    Miao Su

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  1. Khai Ly Do
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Contributions

Khai Ly Do: conceptualization, methodology, formal analysis, investigation, data curation, visualization, writing—original draft. Asim Mushtaq: data curation, visualization, software, writing—review and editing. Jian Liu: methodology and formal analysis. Feng Zhao: resource, project administration, and supervision. Miao Su: funding acquisition, project administration, supervision, validation, visualization, writing—review and editing.

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Do, K.L., Mushtaq, A., Liu, J. et al. Unveiling the Use of Natural and Early Synthetic Dyes in Indonesian Historical Silk Textiles. Fibers Polym (2024). https://doi.org/10.1007/s12221-024-00575-8

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