Identification of anthraquinone markers for distinguishing Rubia species in madder-dyed textiles by HPLC

Abstract

The anthraquinone components of the roots of various species of madder (Rubia spp.) have been used for millennia as red colorants in textiles, carpets and other objects. Although many species of Rubia are known, only a few of them have been used widely for dyeing. Furthermore, though nearly 70 anthraquinones have been found in Rubia species, only a few of these occur consistently at relatively high levels. Knowledge of the plant dyestuffs is helpful for establishing the location of production, production method and/or history of the dyed object. Using plant material and dyed textile fibers obtained from a number of sources, and HPLC with photodiode array and mass spectrometric detection for analysis, we have been able to identify marker anthraquinones that permit differentiation of the more common species of madder used for dyeing in Eurasia. Textiles dyed with all of the species examined contain varying amounts of purpurin, but only those dyed with Rubia akane contain large amounts of 6-hydroxyrubiadin (1,3,6-trihydroxy-2-methylanthraquinone) or its glycosides. Textiles dyed with R. tinctorum contain primarily alizarin, whereas those dyed with R. cordifolia and R. peregrina contain mostly purpurin, munjistin and pseudopurpurin, but little or no alizarin or 6-hydroxyrubiadin. The latter two species cannot reliably be distinguished from each other, however. The plants themselves often contain glycoside precursors not usually seen in the dyed materials.