Abstract
Sophisticated scientific methods have opened up new dimensions in research into the metal threads decorating ancient textiles. At the same time, some of the results of the investigations have given rise to new questions to be answered. A review is given of the results and problems of this new field of research.
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Notes and references
For example, O. v. Falke, ‘Kunstgeschichte der Seidenweberei’, Berlin, 1921;
E. Flemming, ‘Textile Künste’, Berlin, 1923;
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For example, A. Geijer, ‘Birka III. Die Textilfunde aus den Gräbern’, KVHAA 1938, Uppsala;
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For example: E. Hoke, I. Petraschek-Heim, ‘Microprobe Analysis of Gilded Silver Threads from Mediaeval Textiles’,Studies in Conservation, 1977,22;
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For example: O. v. Falke,op.cit. (see Ref. 1), E. Flemming, op.cit. (see Ref. 1), H. Schmidt,op.cit. (see Ref. 1), F. Bock, op.cit. (see Ref. 3)
F. Bock,op.cit. (see Ref. 3), p. 10
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Unpublished data. M. Balla, Technical University of Budapest, is kindly thanked for the neutron activation analysis
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Theophilus Presbyter (12th century) describes this method, see Ref. 23, p. 127
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A team in Hungary is currently attempting to reproduce the ancient manufacturing methods of metal threads. The results obtained up until now seem to prove this statement
M. Flury-Lemberg, ‘Textile Conservation and Research’,Schriften der Abegg Stiftung, Bern, 1988, p. 478 and p. 469
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M. Flury-Lemberg,op.cit. (see Ref. 20), p. 475
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Unpublished data. A. Toth, Institute of Technical Physics of the Hungarian Academy of Science, Budapest, is kindly thanked for the analysis
M. Járó, E. Gondar, ‘Mediaeval Membrane ‘Threads Used for Weaving and Embroidery’, inArchaeometrical Research in Hungary’, National Centre of Museums, Budapest, 1988, p. 256
N. Indictoret al.,op. cit. (see Ref. 28), pp. 14–15
M. Járó Gondar, E.,op. cit. (see Ref. 30), p. 259, p. 261 and unpublished data. A. Toth, Research Institute of Technical Physics of the Hungarian Academy of Science is kindly thanked for the energy dispersive X-ray analyses.
N. Indictoret al.,op. cit. (see Ref. 28), p. 6
I. Petraschek-Heim,op. cit. (see Ref. 2), p. 269
M. Braun Ronsdorf,op. cit. (see Ref. 4), p. 6
A. Kolos, Museum of Arts and Crafts, Budapest, is kindly thanked for the photo.
Ms E. Gondar, INNOVATEXT Textile Engineering Institute, Budapest, is kindly thanked for the scanning electron-micrographs
Photo taken from M. Braun Ronsdorf,op. cit. (see Ref. 4) p. 3
Mr A. Toth, Research Institute of Technical Physics of the Hungarian Academy of Science, Budapest, is kindly thanked for the energy dispersive X-ray analyses
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Járó, M. Gold embroidery and fabrics in europe: XI – XIV centuries. Gold Bull 23, 40–57 (1990). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF03214711
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/BF03214711