Abstract
This study was implemented to test the Episkin model of reconstructed epidermis in the evaluation of the efficacy of cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical products on cutaneous energy metabolism. The energy metabolism is evaluated by measuring the concentration of intracellular ATP by a method using an ultrasensitive bioluminescent reaction. The work presented compares results obtained in reconstructed epithelium and monolayer primary cultures of human keratinocytes.
After application of a hydrosoluble product, the increase in intracellular ATP is identical in a monolayer culture of keratinocytes (+239±18% versus control) and in Episkin (+248±21% versus control). An emulsion was also tested on the two models. It is only possible to test the emulsion at a dilution of under 0.05% on a keratinocyte culture, and this means that the real efficacy of the product is underestimated (+145±18% versus control). The three-dimensional model enables the application of the undiluted emulsion, and the results show an increase in intracellular ATP of +420±80% versus control: products in final formulation can be tested in normal conditions of use.
Similar content being viewed by others
Abbreviations
- BPE:
-
bovine pituitary extract
- DMEM:
-
Dulbecco's modified Eagle's medium
- EDTA:
-
ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid
- EGF:
-
epidermal growth factor
- K-SFM:
-
keratinocytes serum free medium
- MTT:
-
3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl-tetrazolium bromide
- O/W:
-
oil in water
- PBS:
-
phosphate-buffered saline
References
Aubin G. Expérimentation biologique des produits cosmétiques. In: Précis de cosmétologie dermatologique, 2nd edn. Paris: Masson; 1990:121–58.
Boyce ST, Ham RG. Cultivation, frozen storage and clonal growth of normal human epidermal keratinocytes in serum free media. J Tissue Cult Methods. 1985;9:83–93.
Brasier AR, Tate JE, Habener JF. Optimized use of the firefly luciferase assay as a reporter gene in mammalian cell lines. Biotechniques. 1989;7:1116–22.
Cohen C, Dossou KG, Rougier A, Roguet R. Episkin: an in vitro model for the evaluation of the phototoxicity and the sunscreen photoprotective properties. Toxicol in Vitro. 1994;8(4):669–71.
Garewal HS, Ahmann FR, Schifman RB, Celniker A. ATP assay: ability to distinguish cytostatic from cytocidal anticancer drug effects. J Natl Cancer Inst 1986;77:1039–45.
Köszegi T, Kellermayer M, Kövecs F, Jobst K. Bioluminescent monitoring of ATP release from human red blood cells treated with nonionic detergent. J Clin Chem Clin Biochem. 1988;26:599–604.
Kuzmits R, Aiginger P, Müller MM, Steurer G, Linkesch W. Assessment of the sensitivity of leukaemic cells to cytotoxic drugs by bioluminescence measurement of ATP in cultured cells. Clin Sci. 1986;71:81–8.
Kuzmits R, Rumpold H, Müller MM, Schopf G. The use of bioluminescence to evaluate the influence of chemotherapeutic drugs on ATP levels of malignant cell lines. J Clin Chem Clin Biochem. 1986;24:293–8.
Mosmann T. Rapid colorimetric assay for cellular growth and survival: application to proliferation and cytotoxicity assays. J Immunol Methods. 1983;65:55–63.
Petru E, Sevinf BU, Perras J et al. Comparative chemosensitivity profiles in four human ovarian carcinoma cell lines measuring ATP bioluminescence. Gynecol Oncol. 1990;38:155–60.
Roguet R, Cohen C, Dossou KG, Rougier A. Episkin, a reconstituted human epidermis for assessing in vitro the irritancy of topically applied compounds. Toxicol in Vitro. 1994a;8(2):283–91.
Roguet R, Régnier M, Cohen C, Dossou KG, Rougier A. The use of in vitro reconstituted human skin in dermotoxicity testing. Toxicol in Vitro. 1994b;8(4):635–9.
Roguet R, Cohen C, Rougier A. Reconstituted human epidermis to assess cutaneous irritation, photoirritation and photoprotection in vitro. In: Rougier A, Goldberg AM, Maibach HI, eds. In vitro skin toxicology. New York: Mary Ann Liebert Inc.; 1994c;10:141–9.
Tinois E, Tiollier J, Gaucherand M, Dumas H, Tardy M, Thivolet J. In vitro and post-transplantation differentiation of human keratinocytes grown on the human type IV collagen film of a bilayered dermal substitute. Exp Cell Res 1991;193:310–9.
Tinois E, Dumas H, Gaetani Q, Dupont D, Pouradier Duteil X, Rougier A. Episkin: un épiderme humain reconstruit. Nouv Dermatol. 1993;12:510.
Tinois E, Gaetani Q, Gayraud B, Dupont D, Rougier A, Pouradier Duteil X. The Episkin model: successful reconstruction of human epidermis in vitro. In: Rougier A, Goldberg AM, Maibach HI, eds. In vitro skin toxicology. New York: Mary Ann Liebert Inc.; 1994;10:133–40.
White TD, Bourke JE, Livett BG. Direct and continuous detection of ATP secretion from primary monolayer cultures of bovine adrenal chromaffin cells. J Neurochem. 1987;49:1266–73.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
About this article
Cite this article
Buche, P., Violin, L. & Girard, P. Evaluation of the effects of cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical products on cutaneous energy metabolism using the Episkin model of reconstructed epidermis. Cell Biol Toxicol 10, 381–385 (1994). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF00755786
Accepted:
Issue Date:
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/BF00755786