Skip to main content

Supply Chains in the Apparel Industry: Do Transnational Initiatives for Social Sustainability Improve Workers’ Situation?

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Stakeholder Engagement: Clinical Research Cases

Part of the book series: Issues in Business Ethics ((IBET,volume 46))

  • 1654 Accesses

Abstract

Non-state driven Transnational Initiatives for Social Sustainability (TISSs) have increasingly attempted to approach social issues like labour laws in global supply chains. The reason is that state-laws are territorially confined and thus cannot approach such issues. Attempting to fill this regulatory gap, TISSs have become more and more important to provide systems of rules for coping with transboundary issues. But can TISSs, which by definition provide rules to be followed exclusively on a voluntary basis, contribute to effective solutions of issues on which they are focused? This examination presents a theoretical framework explaining the effectiveness of TISSs. For the empirical case study, the Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI) and the Fair Wear Foundation (FWF) were selected. Data was collected from expert interviews and documents as audit reports and regulatory documents of BSCI and FWF. The results lead to the conclusion that stakeholder-involving approaches are adequate to support social sustainability in the future.

This chapter is a reprint of “Supply Chains in the Apparel Industry: Do Transnational Initiatives for Social Sustainability Improve Workers’ Situation?”, published in International Journal of Management, Knowledge and Learning (IJMKL; 2015 Vol. 4, Issue 1, p. 27-40).

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 109.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 139.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 139.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  • Abbott, Kenneth W., and Duncan Snidal. 2009. The governance triangle: Regulatory standards institutions and the shadow of the state. In The politics of global regulation, 44–88. Princeton: University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • BSCI. 2009a. Code of conduct. http://www.bsci-intl.org/resources/code-of-conduct. Accessed 9 Mar 2015.

  • ———. 2009b. Rules and functioning. http://www.bsci-intl.org/resources/rules-functioning. Accessed 15 Mar 2015.

  • ———. 2009c. Implementation guidelines. Brussels.

    Google Scholar 

  • ———. 2009d. Management manual. Brussels.

    Google Scholar 

  • ———. 2009e. Position on wages. http://www.bsci-intl.org/resources/bsci-positions. Accessed 12 Mar 2015.

  • ———. 2009f. Social audit guidelines. Brussels.

    Google Scholar 

  • ———. 2012. Annual report 2011. http://www.bsci-intl.org/resources/annual-report-bsci. Accessed 15 Mar 2015.

  • Calton, Jerry M., and Steven L. Payne. 2003. Coping with paradox: Multistakeholder learning dialogue as a pluralist sensemaking process for addressing messy problems. Business & Society 42: 7–42.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Camillus, John C. 2008. Strategy as a wicked problem. Harvard Business Review 86: 99–106.

    Google Scholar 

  • Delmas, Magali. 2001. Stakeholders and competitive advantage. Production and Operations Management 10: 343–358.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Dingwerth, Klaus, and Philipp Pattberg. 2006. Global governance as a perspective on world politics. Global Governance 12: 185–203.

    Google Scholar 

  • Fair Wear Foundation (FWF). 2009a. Charter including code of labour practices. http://www.fairwear.org/ul/cms/fck-uploaded/documents/companies/FWFdocs/fwfcharterjanuary2011.pdf. Accessed 18 Mar 2015.

  • ———. 2009b. Manual for companies affiliated to Fair Wear Foundation. http://www.fairwear.org/ul/cms/fck-uploaded/documents/companies/ManualsReports/manualaffiliatesoctober2009.pdf. Accessed 18 Mar 2015.

  • ———. 2010. Living wage: FWF policy and practice. http://www.fairwear.org/ul/cms/fck-uploaded/documents/policydocs/fwflivingwagepolicynov2010.pdf. Accessed 20 Mar 2015.

  • ———. 2012a. Fair Wear Foundation annual report 2011. http://www.fairwear.org/ul/cms/fck-uploaded/documents/fwfpublications_reports/FWFAnnualReport2011.pdf. Accessed 12 Mar 2015.

  • ———. 2012b. FWF audit manual. http://www.fairwear.org/ul/cms/fck-uploaded/documents/policydocs/FWFauditmanual-march2012.pdf. Accessed 5 Apr 2015.

  • ———. 2012c. Terms for audits by FWF audit teams. http://www.fairwear.org/ul/cms/fck-uploaded/documents/policydocs/termsforFWFauditsjan2012.pdf. Accessed 3 Mar 2015.

  • Fama, Eugene F. 1980. Agency problems and the theory of the firm. Journal of Political Economy 88: 288–307.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Fama, Eugene F., and Michael C. Jensen. 1983. Separation of ownership and control. The Journal of Law and Economics 26: 301–325.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Fransen, Luc W. 2012. Corporate social responsibility and global labor standards: firms and activists in the making of private regulation. New York: Routledge.

    Google Scholar 

  • Friese, Susanne. 2012. Qualitative data analysis with ATLAS.ti. Thousand Oaks: Sage.

    Google Scholar 

  • George, Alexander L., and Andrew Bennett. 2005. Case studies and theory development in the social sciences, BCSIA studies in international security. Cambridge: MIT Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gibbs, Graham R. 2007. Analyzing qualitative data. Thousand Oaks: Sage.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Gläser, Jochen, and Grit Laudel. 2010. Experteninterviews und qualitative Inhaltsanalyse – als Instrumente rekonstruierender Untersuchungen. Wiesbaden: VS Verlag fĂĽr Sozialwissenschaften. Vol. 2., durchg. Wiesbaden: VS Verlag.

    Google Scholar 

  • Held, David. 2004. Global covenant: the social democratic alternative to the Washington consensus. Cambridge: Polity Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Hill, Charles W.L., and Thomas M. Jones. 1992. Stakeholder-agency theory. Journal of Management Studies 29: 131–154.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • ILO. 2012. ILOLEX: Database of international labour standards. http://www.ilo.org/ilolex/english/convdisp1.htm. Accessed 9 Mar 2015.

  • Jensen, Michael C., and William H. Meckling. 1976. Theory of the firm: Managerial behavior, agency costs and ownership structure. Journal of Financial Economics 3: 305–360.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Levy, David L., and Rami Kaplan. 2008. Corporate social responsibility and theories of global governance: strategic contestation in global issue arenas. In The Oxford handbook of corporate social responsibility, ed. Adrew Crane, Dirk Matten, Abagail McWilliams, Jeremy Moon, and Donald S. Siegen, 432–451. Oxford: Oxford University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lijphart, Arend. 1971. Comparative politics and the comparative method. The American Political Science Review 65: 682–693.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Mayring, Philipp. 2010. Qualitative inhaltsanalyse: Grundlagen und techniken. Beltz Verlag: Weinheim.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Meier, Claude. 2014. The effectiveness of transnational standards initiatives (TSI) in the apparel industry: An empirical examination of two cases. Bern: Haupt Verlag.

    Google Scholar 

  • Mena, SĂ©bastien, Marieke de Leede, DorothĂ©e Baumann, Nicky Black, Sara Lindeman, and Lindsay McShane. 2010. Advancing the business and human rights agenda: Dialogue, empowerment, and constructive engagement. Journal of Business Ethics 93: 161–188.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Miles, Edward L., Steinar Andresen, Elaine M. Carlin, Jon B. Skiaerseth, Arild Underdal, and Jørgen Wetterstad. 2002. Environmental regime effectiveness: confronting theory with evidence. Cambridge: MIT Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Prahalad, Coimbatore K., and Gary Hamel. 1990. The core competence of the corporation. Harvard Business Review 68: 79–91.

    Google Scholar 

  • Przeworski, Adam, and Henry Teune. 1970. The logic of comparative social inquiry. New York: Wiley.

    Google Scholar 

  • Rieth, Lothar. 2009. Global governance und corporate social responsibility. Opladen: Budrich UniPress.

    Google Scholar 

  • Rondinelli, Dennis A. 2002. Transnational corporations: International citizens or New Sovereigns? Business and Society Review 107: 391–413.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Rosenau, James N., and Ernst-Otto Czempiel. 1992. Governance without government: Order and change in world politics. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Sachs, Sybille, and Edwin RĂĽhli. 2011. Stakeholders matter: A new paradigm for strategy in society. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Shankman, Neil A. 1999. Reframing the debate between agency and stakeholder theories of the firm. Journal of Business Ethics 19: 319–334.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Strand, Robert. 2010. The stakeholder dashboard. Greenter Management Journal 54: 23–36.

    Google Scholar 

  • Van Tulder, Rob, and Ans Kolk. 2001. Multinationality and corporate ethics: codes of conduct in the sporting goods industry. Journal of International Business Studies 32: 267–283.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Willke, Helmut. 2014. Demokratie in Zeiten der Konfusion. Berlin: Suhrkamp.

    Google Scholar 

  • Zadek, Simon. 2004. The path to corporate social responsibility. Harvard Business Review 82: 125–133.

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Claude Meier .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2017 Springer International Publishing AG

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Meier, C. (2017). Supply Chains in the Apparel Industry: Do Transnational Initiatives for Social Sustainability Improve Workers’ Situation?. In: Freeman, R., Kujala, J., Sachs, S. (eds) Stakeholder Engagement: Clinical Research Cases. Issues in Business Ethics, vol 46. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-62785-4_10

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics