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Propagation of a Tsunami in the Ocean and Its Interaction with the Coast

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Physics of Tsunamis

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Abstract

Traditional ideas of tsunami propagation in the open ocean are dealt with. The significance is estimated of manifestations of phase and amplitude dispersions. Classical problems are considered, concerning variation of the amplitude of a long wave in a basin with gently varying depth (the Green’s law) and the reflection of a wave from a step and from a rectangular obstacle. Formulae of the ray method are presented in Cartesian and spherical coordinate systems. Phenomena of long-wave refraction and capture by underwater ridges and the shelf are described. Estimation is performed of linear (viscous) and nonlinear (turbulent) dissipation of the energy of long waves. The effect of a wave amplitude being reduced by scattering on bottom irregularities is considered. Approaches to the numerical simulation of tsunami wave propagation are described. Conventionally applied equations of nonlinear long-wave theory, taking into account the Coriolis force and bottom friction, are presented both in Cartesian and spherical coordinate systems. The technique for formulating initial and boundary conditions in the tsunami propagation problem is described. Brief information is given on certain tsunami models (codes), that are actively applied, at present. Features of transoceanic wave propagation are considered, taking advantage of the December 26, 2004 tsunami as an example. The main results, due to investigation of the issues of a tsunami run-up on the shore, are presented.

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Notes

  1. 1.

    With a precision up to a numerical coefficient, this quantity is in accordance with the result obtained in the book Pelinovsky (1996).

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Russian Academy of Sciences, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, Russia

    Boris W. Levin

  2. Faculty of Physics, M.V. Lomonosov Moscow State University, Moscow, Russia

    Mikhail A. Nosov

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  1. Boris W. Levin
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  2. Mikhail A. Nosov
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Correspondence to Boris W. Levin .

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Levin, B.W., Nosov, M.A. (2016). Propagation of a Tsunami in the Ocean and Its Interaction with the Coast. In: Physics of Tsunamis. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-24037-4_6

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