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Italian Cultures, Traditions and Foods in Transition

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Literary Voices of the Italian Diaspora in Britain
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Abstract

This chapter focuses on the significance of cultural transfer in migrant contexts, thus on the hybrid products of the contact between Italian and British traditions. The latest scholarly acquisitions in this field will help to decode and interpret this important aspect of the narratives included in this literary corpus.

We will start from the iconic objects of Italian rural traditions: the ciocie, the typical footwear worn by shepherds in southern Lazio, as well as the different items in their costumes: the protagonists of Italian British narratives will show that once they settled in urban Britain, they had to adapt to a new style and even became attracted to the latest fashion trends.

Exploring and analysing other forms of hybridity, the second section centres on the gradual passage of the protagonists of these literary narratives from Catholic orthodoxy to overt criticism and even Buddhism, while third one discusses their contribution to the British national cuisine, as well as to how they gradually changed their diet.

The latest scholarly research has demonstrated that there is a growing interest in the intersections of food, belonging and dwelling. This concluding paragraph will bring to light this special aspect of multicultural Britain.

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Notes

  1. 1.

    See Donna R. Gabaccia, Italy’s Many Diasporas, 74.

  2. 2.

    Teresa Fiore, “‘Architextualizing’ the Italian Immigration Experience to the United States: Bricklayers and Writers in John Fante’s Works,” in The Cultures of Italian Migration. Diverse Trajectories and Discrete Perspectives, ed. Graziella Parati and Anthony Julian Tamburri (Madison, Teaneck: Farleigh Dickinson University Press, 2011), 109.

  3. 3.

    Cristina Amescua, “Anthropology of Intangible Cultural Heritage and Migration: An Unchartered Field,” in Anthropological Perspectives on Intangible Cultural Heritage, ed. Lourdes Arizpe and Cristina Amescua (Cham: Springer, 2013), 107.

  4. 4.

    Sam Durrant and Catherine M. Lord, “Introduction: Essays in Migratory Aesthetics. Cultural Practices,” in Essays in Migratory Aesthetics: Cultural Practices Between Migration and Art Making, ed. Sam Durrant and Catherine M. Lord (Amsterdam: Rodopi, 2007), 12.

  5. 5.

    See Jasna Čapo Žmegač, “Spanning National Borders: Split Lives of Croatian Migrant Families,” Migracijske i etničke teme 23 (2007), 33–35.

  6. 6.

    Servini, A Boy from Bardi, 2–3.

  7. 7.

    Vito Teti, Il colore del cibo. Geografia, mito e realtà dell’alimentazione mediterranea (Sesto San Giovanni: Meltemi, 1999), 163–164.

  8. 8.

    Biroldo salami is made from the pig’s head (boiled and deboned), heart, tongue and blood, seasoned with wild fennel, nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon. For further details on the processing, see the website of Visit Tuscany, https://www.visittuscany.com/en/food/biroldo-salami-from-garfagnana/. Accessed 31 May 2023.

  9. 9.

    Moscardini, La Vacanza, 78–79.

  10. 10.

    Contini, Dear Olivia, 15.

  11. 11.

    As stated in chapter 2 of this book, the main borders of this area are the city of Rome, Naples and the National Park of Abruzzo. Apart from Frosinone, its main city, it has other important centres such as Fiuggi, Cassino and Alatri.

  12. 12.

    See Michele Santulli, Il costume ciociaro nell’arte europea del 1800 (Arpino: Edizioni Ciociaria Sconosciuta, 2009). Its main contents can also be found at http://inciociaria.org/2016/01/07/il-costume-ciociaro-nellarte-europea-del-1800/); and Roberto Salvatori, “Il costume tradizionale palianese,” Centro Studi Salvatori, http://centrostudisalvatori.blogspot.com/2018/07/il-costume-tradizionale-palianese.html. Accessed 31 May 2023.

  13. 13.

    They were originally made of large soles in leather and straps with which the leg was tied from the ankle to the knee.

  14. 14.

    Contini, Dear Olivia, 4.

  15. 15.

    Pierluigi Moschitti, Mo’ vene Natale. La tradizione natalizia e la musica popolare (Gaeta: Passerino Editore, 2020).

  16. 16.

    Ibid., 5–6.

  17. 17.

    Contini, Dear Olivia, 34, 16, 60.

  18. 18.

    Ibid., 4.

  19. 19.

    See Salvatori, Il costume tradizionale palianese.

  20. 20.

    Arcari, The Hokey Pokey Man, 17.

  21. 21.

    See Santulli, Il costume ciociaro.

  22. 22.

    Sora is a small town in the province of Frosinone. It is about 72 miles from Rome and 86 from Naples. Located next to Abruzzo, it borders with Arpino and other little villages in the Liri Valley.

  23. 23.

    Arpino was the birthplace of the Latin poet Cicero. Today it has about 8,000 inhabitants.

  24. 24.

    Giovanni Fargioni-Tozzetti, In Ciociaria: ricordi di usanze popolari (Livorno: Tipografia Giusti, 1891).

  25. 25.

    Ibid., 27-36. As has been said, Frosinone has always been the main city of Ciociaria. According to the tradition, its inhabitants toured the city holding a big leaf of agave as a tribute to the “dying” Carnival. Those who dared to join the procession without holding one were beaten and insulted.

  26. 26.

    Contini, Dear Olivia, 15.

  27. 27.

    Arcari, The Hokey Pokey Man, 41.

  28. 28.

    These three small towns are located in the Comino Valley, which was originally part of the ancient district of Terra di Lavoro. They border with the Apennines, the National Park of Abruzzo and the region of Molise.

  29. 29.

    Information about the “Maialata,” or “the feast of the pig,” can be found at https://www.obiettivointercultura.eu/?p=170. Accessed 31 May 2023.

  30. 30.

    For a clear historical account of the feast of the Madonna del Canneto, also of religious chants such as Salve del Ciel, Regina, Ti voglio amare, Maria and especially Aniceto Venturini’s Evviva Maria [All Hail Mary], see http://www.madonnadicanneto.it/sito/index.php/storia/cenni-storici#. Accessed 31 May 2023.

  31. 31.

    Arcari, The Hokey Pokey Man, 40, 44–45.

  32. 32.

    The two feasts, which began in the closing decades of the 19th century, are respectively celebrated in early and mid-July every year. For further information, see Terri Colpi, The Italian Factor, 238-239. As Colpi points out, the routes followed by the processions trace out the old Italian quarters of Clerkenwell and Ancoats, even though few Italians still live in these areas.

  33. 33.

    Contini, Dear Olivia, 89.

  34. 34.

    Ibid., 89–90.

  35. 35.

    Ibid., 126.

  36. 36.

    Ibid., 130; 132. Both photos depict Maria with her children and were taken in 1916.

  37. 37.

    Emanuelli, A Sense of Belonging, 10. Here the caption of the black and white photograph reads: “My father Giovanni Emanuelli and my mother Carolina Tedaldi in the early 1920s.”

  38. 38.

    Besagni, A Better Life, 18. The photo includes nine members of the staff of Italian school in 1923.

  39. 39.

    Hughes, War Changes Everything, 36–37: “Overnight, she [Jolanda] changed from a schoolgirl with ribbons in her hair and a shapeless old blazer to a smart young woman, who wore a two piece suit, a costume we called it then, to go to business. She wore make-up now, sporting bright red lips and nails and had her hair cut into a stylish bob. She looked wonderful, but very different.”

  40. 40.

    Considering our literary corpus, the most popular songs are Beneamino Gigli’s Giovinezza (1909) and Renato Micheli’s Faccetta Nera (1935). They are mentioned by Contini’s Dear Olivia and Di Mambro’s Tally’s Blood.

  41. 41.

    Contini, Dear Olivia, 231.

  42. 42.

    Emanuelli, A Sense of Belonging, 108. Here the caption reads: “The Carpanini Sisters. Alma on the accordion and Irene on the tambourine. Alma was my childhood sweetheart.”

  43. 43.

    Pieri, The Scots-Italians, 90–91.

  44. 44.

    Contini, Dear Alfonso, 135.

  45. 45.

    Sasha Newell, “Migratory Modernity and the Cosmology of Consumption in Côte d’Ivoire,” in Migration and Economy: Global and Local Dynamics, ed. Lillian Trager (Lanham: AltaMira Press, 2005), 183.

  46. 46.

    Pia, Language of My Choosing, 108.

  47. 47.

    Ibid., 107–108.

  48. 48.

    Pia, Keeping Away the Spiders, 45.

  49. 49.

    Ibid., 45–46.

  50. 50.

    On the concept of “contradictory class mobility” see Rachel Salazar Parreñas, Servants of Globalization: Migration and Domestic Work (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 2015), 118; and Jennifer A. Cook, “Transnational Migration and the Lived Experience of Class Across Borders,” in Handbook of Culture and Migration, ed. Jeffrey H. Cohen and Ibrahim Sirkeci (Cheltenham: Elgar Publishing, 2021), 235.

  51. 51.

    See Besagni, A Better Life, 14–15.

  52. 52.

    Ferrari, Fortunata, 35.

  53. 53.

    Colpi, The Italian Factor, 230-232.

  54. 54.

    Arcari, The Hokey Pokey Man, 98.

  55. 55.

    Tullio De Mauro and Francesco Erbani, La cultura degli italiani (Torino: Laterza, 2015).

  56. 56.

    Ibid., 39–40.

  57. 57.

    Di Mambro, Tally’s Blood, 68.

  58. 58.

    Contini, Dear Olivia, 73.

  59. 59.

    Pieri, Isle of the Displaced, Ch. 1, “Origins,” par. 14.

  60. 60.

    Servini, A Boy from Bardi, 10.

  61. 61.

    Pia, A Language of My Choosing, 16, 221.

  62. 62.

    Ibid., 144–150.

  63. 63.

    Arcari, The Hokey Pokey Man, 101.

  64. 64.

    Ibid.

  65. 65.

    Contini, Dear Olivia, 248–249.

  66. 66.

    Di Mambro, Tally’s Blood, 87–88.

  67. 67.

    Ibid.

  68. 68.

    Cara Delay, “The First Communion Dress: Fashion, Faith and the Feminization of Catholic Ireland,” Nursing Clio, July 12, 2017, https://nursingclio.org/2017/07/12/the-first-communion-dress-fashion-faith-and-the-feminization-of-catholic-ireland/. Accessed 31 May 2023.

  69. 69.

    See Peter McGrail, First Communion: Ritual, Church and Popular Religious Identity (Abingdon: Ashgate, 2016), 81; and Daniel Donovan, Distinctively Catholic: An Exploration of Catholic Identity (New York: Paulist Press, 1997).

  70. 70.

    Rossi, Italian Blood British Heart, 73.

  71. 71.

    On this legend, which was created to reinforce the idea of obscurantism in mediaeval times, see among others, Angelo De Gubernatis, Storia comparata degli usi nuziali in Italia e presso gli altri popoli indo-europei (Milano: Treves, 1869), 197–205; and Friedrich G. Friedmann, “Osservazioni sul mondo contadino dell’Italia meridionale (1952),” Quaderni di Sociologia 26–27 (2001): 13–26.

  72. 72.

    See Domenico Scarpati, Civiltà e vita contadina. Lavoro delle terre nelle Murge tra miti e riti, preghiere e proverbi (Lecce: Youcanprint, 2019).

  73. 73.

    Rossi, Italian Blood British Heart, 18–19.

  74. 74.

    Ibid., 21.

  75. 75.

    Tan Chee-Beng, “Introduction: After Migration and Religion Affiliation,” in After Migration and Religious Affiliation. Religions, Chinese Identities and Transnational Networks, ed. Tan Chee-Beng (Singapore: World Scientific Publishing, 2015), xvii.

  76. 76.

    Di Mambro, Tally’s Blood, 2.

  77. 77.

    Once again, the above-mentioned authors, together with Forte and Tognini, were technically 1.5G immigrants. See Paolo Ruspini, Migrants Unbound, 86.

  78. 78.

    See, for instance, Contini, Dear Alfonso, 222: “In the end the hotel [North British Hotel on Princes Street] was booked, the menu decided and the church hall, though provisionally booked, was cancelled. A four-course lunch would be served at 1 p.m. for 210 guests.”

  79. 79.

    Emanuelli, A Sense of Belonging, 125.

  80. 80.

    Ibid.

  81. 81.

    Domic Pasura and Marta Bivand Erdal, “Introduction: Migration, Transnationalism and Catholicism,” in Migration, Transnationalism and Catholicism. Global Perspectives, ed. Domic Pasura and Marta Bivand Erdal (Cham: Palgrave Macmillan, 2016), 1–2.

  82. 82.

    Rossi, Italian Blood British Heart, 74.

  83. 83.

    Contini, Dear Olivia, 175–176.

  84. 84.

    Ibid.

  85. 85.

    Pia, Language of My Choosing, 80.

  86. 86.

    Ibid., 81.

  87. 87.

    Ibid., 81–82.

  88. 88.

    Darra Goldstein, ed., The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweet (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2015), 289.

  89. 89.

    Pia, Language of My Choosing, 145.

  90. 90.

    Ibid., 144.

  91. 91.

    Ibid., 158.

  92. 92.

    Ibid., 160–161.

  93. 93.

    See Spinetti, Victor Spinetti Up Front…, 69. There was a high level of tension between his parents. Furthermore, he could not bear their hard routine. In chapter 4 he writes: “The timing was perfect. Going to Cardiff would solve all my problems. I needed to get away. I needed to be independent and I needed some money to live. The grant came through and I went to Cardiff.”

  94. 94.

    Colpi, The Italian Factor, 193.

  95. 95.

    Di Mambro, Tally’s Blood, 25.

  96. 96.

    Kathy Burrell, “Male and Female Polishness in Post-War Leicester: Gender and Its Intersections in a Refugee Community,” in Gendering Migration. Masculinity, Femininity and Ethnicity in Post-War Britain, ed. Louise Ryan and Wendy Webster (Aldershot: Ashgate, 2016), 71–87; and Helma Lutz and Anna Amelina, “Intersectionality and Transnationality as Key Tools for Gender-Sensitive Migration Research,” in The Palgrave Book of Gender and Migration, ed. Claudia Mora and Nicola Piper (Cham: Palgrave Macmillan, 2021), 55–72.

  97. 97.

    Colpi, The Italian Factor, 216–217.

  98. 98.

    Pia, Language of My Choosing, 49.

  99. 99.

    Ibid., 19-20.

  100. 100.

    Ibid., 198.

  101. 101.

    Meredith Abarca, “Foreword,” in Food Identities at Home and on the Move: Explorations at the Intersections of Food, Belonging and Dwelling, ed. Raúl Matta, Charles-Édouard de Suremain and Chantal Crenn (Abingdon: Routledge, 2020), 8–16.

  102. 102.

    Pia, Keeping Away the Spiders, 93.

  103. 103.

    Ibid., 97.

  104. 104.

    See Eric Fong and Brent Berry, Immigration and the City (Cambridge: Polity, 2017); as well as Siria Guzzo and Anna Gallo, “Diasporic Identities in Social Practices: Language and Food in the Loughborough Italian Community,” in Food Across Cultures. Linguistic Insights in Transcultural Tastes, ed. Giuseppe Balirano and Siria Guzzo (Cham: Palgrave Macmillan, 2019), 71–98.

  105. 105.

    Here Fong and Berry are referring to Gabaccia, Italy’s Many Diasporas, 89.

  106. 106.

    Angelika Dietz, Dimensions of Belongings and Migrants by Choice: Contemporary Movements Between Italy and Northern Ireland (Münster: Waxmann, 2010), 112.

  107. 107.

    Contini, Dear Olivia. The section entitled “Recipes from Fontitune” has no page number. “All recipes serve 4.”

  108. 108.

    Ibid., 60.

  109. 109.

    Francesco Duscio, La cucina tradizionale del Lazio (Roma: Fuoco Edizioni, 2020).

  110. 110.

    Ibid., 71.

  111. 111.

    Pia, Language of My Choosing, 63.

  112. 112.

    Duscio, La cucina tradizionale del Lazio, 188–189.

  113. 113.

    For further information about the Laziale culinary heritage, see the Gambero Rosso website https://www.gamberorosso.it/notizie/storie/prodotti-tipici-del-lazio-le-specialita-della-ciociaria/. Accessed 31 May 2023.

  114. 114.

    Pia, Language of My Choosing, 63.

  115. 115.

    Ibid., 191.

  116. 116.

    Ibid., 63.

  117. 117.

    Ibid., 197.

  118. 118.

    Ibid., 62.

  119. 119.

    Contini, Dear Olivia, 16.

  120. 120.

    Pia, Language of My Choosing, 63.

  121. 121.

    See Contini, Dear Olivia, 188-189; and Pia, Language of My Choosing, 63–64.

  122. 122.

    Susanne Wessendorf, “State-Imposed Translocalism and the Dream of Returning. Italian Migrants in Switzerland,” in Intimacy and Italian Migration. Gender and Domestic Lives in a Mobile World, ed. Loretta Baldassar and Donna R. Gabaccia (New York: Fordham University Press, 2011), 164–165.

  123. 123.

    Pelosi, “Schoolbooks in Spaghetti Paper,” 224–225.

  124. 124.

    Contini, Dear Alfonso, 5.

  125. 125.

    Ibid.

  126. 126.

    Ibid., 283.

  127. 127.

    Ibid.

  128. 128.

    Ibid.

  129. 129.

    Ibid., 286.

  130. 130.

    Christa Writh, Memories of Belonging: Descendants of Italian Migrants to the United States, 1884–Present (Leiden, Boston: Brill, 2015), 170–171.

  131. 131.

    Pia, Language of My Choosing, 69.

  132. 132.

    Ibid.

  133. 133.

    Panikos Panayi, Spicing Up Britain, Ch. 4, “Changes in British Eating Habits,” par. 1.

  134. 134.

    Elena Salvoni et al., Eating Famously. Elena Salvoni on Fabulous Food for Her Famous Friends and Diners… and a Lifetime in Soho Restaurants (London: Walnut West One, 2007).

  135. 135.

    Ibid., 46–49.

  136. 136.

    Ibid., 50–53.

  137. 137.

    Ibid., 70–73.

  138. 138.

    Ibid., 15.

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Correspondence to Manuela D’Amore .

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D’Amore, M. (2023). Italian Cultures, Traditions and Foods in Transition. In: Literary Voices of the Italian Diaspora in Britain. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-35438-0_5

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