Abstract
The morphodynamic behavior of a mesotidal sandy beach was monitored during both calm and energetic conditions. Two years of seasonal surveys were carried out on Charf el Akab, a gently sloped beach in the North Atlantic coast of Morocco. The method of survey consisted of a 3D study of the beach morphological changes and provided 2 cm vertical accuracy. During the surveyed period, Charf el Akab beach underwent very energetic wave conditions, and the breaking wave height was of H b ≥ 1.5 m. The beach is characterized by a nonpermanent swash bar and composed of well-sorted medium sand. The application of environmental parameters revealed a dissipative state with very low beach gradient which did not vary significantly over the studied period. Morphological changes consist of beach erosion and bar decay under high-energy waves, whereas the intertidal bar re-established and the beach recorded an accentuated accretion due to relatively fair weather conditions. The beach volume reveals a seasonal behavior; the sand accumulated during summer is dramatically removed during winter season. The range in beach sand volume from the most accreted to the most eroded conditions observed is about −5,493 m3. The average sand volume flux between surveys reaches −1 and 0.4 m2/day during peak erosion and accretion periods. The relationships between the wave forcing and the sand volume adjustments were examined. The sand volume change was found to be highly correlated (0.91) with the wave energy flux. The highest correspondence (0.95) was found between the sand flux rate and the wave energy flux. The wave forcing is expected to be the main factor governing beach morphodynamics at Charf el Akab site.
Similar content being viewed by others
References
Aagaard T, Kroon A, Andersen S, Møller Sørensen R, Quartel S, Vinther N (2005) Intertidal beach change during storm conditions; Egmond, The Netherlands. Mar Geol 218:65–80
Allen JR (1981) Beach erosion as a function of variations in the sediment budget, Sandy Hook, New Jersey, USA. Earth Surf Process Landf 6:139–150
Allen JR (1985) Field evaluation of beach profile response to wave steepness as predicted by the Dean model. Coast Eng 9:71–80
Anfuso G, Martínez del Pozo JA, Nachite D, Benavente J, Macias A (2007) Morphological characteristics and medium-term evolution of the beaches between Ceuta and Cabo Negro (Morocco). Environ Geol 52:933–946
Battjes JA (1974) Surf similarity. In: Proceedings of the 14th international conference on coastal engineering, ASCE, pp 466–480
Benavente J, Gracia FJ, López-Aguayo F (2000) Empirical model of morphodynamic beachface behaviour for low-energy mesotidal environments. Mar Geol 167:375–390
Brander RW, Short AD (2000) Morphodynamics of a large-scale rip current system at Muriwai Beach, New Zealand. Mar Geol 165:27–39
Carr AP, Blackley MWL, King HL (1982) Spatial and seasonal aspects of beach stability. Earth Surf Process Landf 7:267–282
Carter RWG (1988) Coastal environments. Academic Press, London, p 617
Cirac P, De Resseguier A, Weber O (1989) Situation courantologique et hydrologique sur le plateau continental atlantique nord-marocain: Mission Géomar II [Hydrological structure on the North Atlantic Moroccan Shelf: Cruises Géomar II]. Bull Inst Géol Bassin d’Aquitaine 46:81–95
Cooper JAG, Jackson DWT, Navas F, McKenna J, Malvarez G (2004) Identifying storm impacts on an embayed, high-energy coastline: examples from western Ireland. Mar Geol 210:261–280
Crowell M, Leatherman SP, Buckley M (1993) Shore-line change rate analysis: long term versus short term data. Shore Beach 61(2):13–20
Dail HJ, Merrifield MA, Bevis M (2000) Steep beach morphology changes due to energetic wave forcing. Mar Geol 162:443–458
Davis RA (1985) Beach and nearshore zone. In: Davis RA (ed) Coastal sedimentary environments. Springer, New York, pp 379–444
Davis RA, Hayes MO (1984) What is a wave-dominated coast? Mar Geol 60:313–329
Davis RA, Fox WT, Hayes MO, Boothroyd JC (1972) Comparison of ridge and runnel systems in tidal and non-tidal environments. J Sediment Petrol 42(2):413–421
Dean RG (1973) Heuristic models of sand transport in the surf zone. In: proceedings of engineering dynamics in the surf zone, Sydney, pp 208–214
Duplantier F, Lesueur P (1983) Les sables du littoral atlantique nord-marocain: origines et mode de mise en place [Sand on the North-Moroccan Atlantic coast: origins and depositional modes]. Bull Inst Géol Bassin d’Aquitaine 33:5–24
Eliot I (1973) The persistence of rip current patterns on sandy beaches. In: Proceedings of the first Australian conference on coastal engineering, pp 29–34
Folk RL, Ward WC (1957) Brazos River bar: a study in the significance of grain size parameters. J Sediment Petrol 27:3–26
Galvin CJ (1968) Breaker type classification on three laboratory beaches. J Geophys Res 73:3651–3659
Gibbs RJ, Matthews MD, Link DA (1971) The relationship between sphere size and settling velocity. J Sediment Petrol 41(1):7–18
Gourlay MR (1968) Beach and dune erosion tests. Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, report no M935/M936
Greenwood B, Davidson-Arnott RGD (1979) Sedimentation and equilibrium in wave-formed bars: a review and case study. Can J Earth Sci 16:312–332
Greenwood B, Aagaard T, Nielsen J (2004) Swash bar morphodynamics in the Danish Wadden Sea: sand bed oscillations and suspended sediment flux during an accretionary phase of the foreshore cycle. Dan J Geogr 104(1):15–30
Guza RT, Inman DL (1975) Edge waves and beach cusps. J Geophys Res 80:2997–3012
Haxel JH, Holman RA (2004) The sediment response of a dissipative beach to variations in wave climate. Mar Geol 206:73–99
Jaaidi EB, Cirac P (1987) La couverture sédimentaire meuble du plateau continental atlantique marocain entre Larache et Agadir [The soft sedimentary cover of the Moroccan Atlantic continental shelf between Larache and Agadir]. Bull Inst Géol Bassin d’Aquitaine 42:33–51
Jago CF, Hardisty J (1984) Sedimentology and morphodynamics of a macrotidal beach, Pendine Sands, SW Wales. Mar Geol 60:123–154
Komar PD (1998) Beaches processes and sedimentation, 2nd edn. Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, p 545
Komar PD, Gaughan MK (1972) Airy wave theory and breaker height prediction. In: Proceedings of the 13th international conference on coastal engineering, ASCE, pp 405–418
Lahlou A (2004) Water and wastewater purification in North Africa. Paper presented at the International Demand Management Conference, pp 51–63
Larson M, Kraus NC (1994) Temporal and spatial scales of beach profile change, Duck, North Carolina. Mar Geol 117:75–94
Larson M, Kraus NC (1995) Prediction of cross-shore sediment transport at different spatial and temporal scales. Mar Geol 126:111–127
Masselink G, Hegge B (1995) Morphodynamics of meso- and macrotidal beaches: examples from central Queensland, Australia. Mar Geol 129:1–23
Masselink G, Short AD (1993) The effect of tide range on beach morphodynamics and morphology: a conceptual beach model. J Coastal Res 9:785–800
Masselink G, Turner IL (1999) The effect of tides on beach Morphodynamics. In: Short AD (ed) Handbook of beach and shoreface morphodynamics. Wiley, Chichester, pp 204–229
Ruggiero P, Kaminsky MG, Gelfenbaum G, Voigt B (2005) Seasonal to interannual morphodynamics along a high-energy dissipative littoral cell. J Coastal Res 21(3):553–578
Short AD (1979) Three dimensional beach-stage model. J Geol 87:553–571
Short AD (1986) A note on the controls of beach state and change, with examples from south-east Australia. J Coastal Res 3(3):387–395
Short AD (1991) Macro-meso tidal beach morphodynamics—an overview. J Coastal Res 7(2):417–436
Short AD (1999) Handbook of beach and shoreface morphodynamics. Chichester, Wiley, p 379
Short AD, Aagaard T (1993) Single and multi-bar beach change models (special issue). J Coastal Res 15:141–157
Sunamura T (1989) Sandy beach geomorphology elucidated by laboratory modelling. In: Lakhan VC, Trenhaile AS (eds) Applications in coastal modelling. Elsevier, Amsterdam, pp 159–213
Thom BG, Hall W (1991) Behaviour of beach profiles during accretion and erosion dominated periods. Earth Surf Process Landf 16:113–127
USACE (2008) Coastal hydrodynamics. Coastal engineering manual, no. 1110-2-1100 (part II), United States Army Corps of Engineers, Mississippi, 608 p
Wijnberg KM, Kroon A (2002) Barred beaches. Geomorphology 48:103–120
Wright LD, Short AD (1984) Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Mar Geol 56:93–118
Wright LD, Nielsen P, Short AD, Green MO (1982) Morphodynamics of a macrotidal beach. Mar Geol 50:97–128
Acknowledgments
This research was funded by the Moroccan PROTARS III D16/07 and the French-Moroccan AI MA/06/159 (Programme Volubilis). The principal author was sponsored by a PhD studentship provided by the National Center for Scientific and Technical Research of Morocco. We would like to thank J.A. Martinez del Pozo and Emma Bello (University of Cadiz) for field assistance during the first and second surveys. Thanks to M’fedal M’rabet for revising the English of an earlier version of this manuscript. We appreciate the comments by the journal’s reviewers which significantly improved the paper.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Rights and permissions
About this article
Cite this article
Taaouati, M., Nachite, D., Benavente, J. et al. Seasonal changes and morphodynamic behavior of a high-energy mesotidal beach: case study of Charf el Akab beach on the North Atlantic coast of Morocco. Environ Earth Sci 64, 1225–1236 (2011). https://doi.org/10.1007/s12665-011-0937-8
Received:
Accepted:
Published:
Issue Date:
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s12665-011-0937-8