Abstract
Variations are found in the shape and the steepness of wind-generated surface gravity waves between very young waves, such as seen in a laboratory tank, and larger waves of various wave ages encountered at sea as the result of wind stress over larger fetches. These differences in the characteristic shape of wind waves are presented as a function of the wave age. The wave steepness is also expressed as a function of wave age, the measurement of which is consistent with the 3/2-power law connecting wave height and characteristic period, normalized by the air friction velocity.
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Bailey, R.J., Jones, I.S.F. & Toba, Y. The steepness and shape of wind waves. Journal of the Oceanographical Society of Japan 47, 249–264 (1991). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02310094
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02310094