Skip to main content

Fashion, Shame and Pride: Constructing the Modest Fashion Industry in Three Faiths

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
The Changing World Religion Map

Abstract

Dress that is understood to be religiously defined is presumed to be the opposite of fashion, to be spatially and temporally apart from the fast changing individuating global trends that characterize modernity. It is also presumed that religious cultures that require or encourage versions of modest dressing and body management are motivated by shame. These presumptions are challenged by the development in the mid-2000s of a new niche market for modest fashion that crosses the three Abrahamic faiths and that works internationally. The potential cost-savings of e-commerce allows many niche markets to grow. The field of modest fashion online is characterized by a mixture of commerce and commentary with an active blogosphere and social media providing opportunities along with entrepreneurship for a women-led discourse about fashion, modesty, and the body. This chapter uses the framework of internet commerce and communications to de-exceptionalize religious clothing cultures and place them within the wider consideration of how shame impacts fashion as an embodied practice, repositioning shame as one among other considerations that factor into the current explosion of creativity in modest fashion.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 429.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 549.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 549.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Notes

  1. 1.

    See Lewis (2012). I am grateful to the editor for permission to reproduce. See www.vestoj.com.

  2. 2.

    Modest Dressing: Faith-based fashion and internet retail is part of the Religion and Society Programme funded by the UK Arts and Humanities Research Board and the Economic and Social Science Research Board. The project is based at the London College of Fashion, and included as co-investigator Emma Tarlo and as postdoctoral researcher Jane Cameron. See: www.fashion.arts.ac.uk/modest-dressing.htm

  3. 3.

    This research did not focus on the dress cultures of religious groups like the Amish whose forms of clothing (and its production) are intended to signal separation from contemporary fashion cultures and the mainstream society with which they are associated.

  4. 4.

    I have previously considered shame in relation to the formation of imperial and postcolonial ethnic and religious identities, Lewis (2004: ch4).

References

  • Ahmed, L. (2011). A quiet revolution: The veil’s resurgence from the Middle East to America. New Haven: Yale University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Ali, N., & Bodrul, O. (2007, 23 October). Personal interview, London.

    Google Scholar 

  • Butler, J. (1993). Gender trouble: Feminism and the subversion of identity. New York: Routledge.

    Google Scholar 

  • Cameron, J. (2013). Modest motivations: Religious/secular contestation in the fashion field (pp. 137–157). In R. Lewis (Ed.), Modest fashion: Styling bodies, mediating faith. London: IB Tauris.

    Google Scholar 

  • Clarke, D. (1993). Commodity lesbianism. In H. Abelove, M. A. Barale, & D. M. Halperin (Eds.), The lesbian and gay studies reader (pp. 186–201). London: Routledge.

    Google Scholar 

  • Duits, L., & van Zoonen, L. (2006). Headscarves and porno-chic: Disciplining girls’ bodies in the European multicultural society. European Journal of Women’s Studies, 13(2), 103–117.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Dwyer, C. (1999). Veiled meanings: Young British Muslim women and the negotiation of differences. Gender, Place and Culture, 6, 5–26.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Gole, N. (2011). Islam in Europe: The lure of fundamentalism and the allure of cosmopolitanism. Princeton: Markus Wiener.

    Google Scholar 

  • Grewal, I. (2005). Transnational America feminisms, diasporas, neoliberalisms. Durham: Duke University Press.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Kariapper, A. S. (2009). Walking a tightrope: Women and veiling in the United Kingdom. London: Women Living Under Muslim Laws.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kossaibati, J. (2010, October 14). Personal interview, London.

    Google Scholar 

  • Leach, W. (1980). True love and perfect union: The feminist reform of sex and society. New York: Basic Books.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lewis, R. (2004). Rethinking orientalism: Women, travel and the Ottoman harem. London: I.B. Tauris.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lewis, R. (2010). Marketing Muslim lifestyle: A new media genre. Journal of Middle East Gender Studies, 6(3), 58–90.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Lewis, R. (2012). Styling modesty. Vestoj (3), 210–224.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lewis, R. (2013). Establishing reputation, maintaining independence: The modest fashion blogosphere (Chapter 14). In D. Bartlett, S. Cole, & A. Rocamora (Eds.), Fashion media. New York: Bloomsbury.

    Google Scholar 

  • Mahmood, S. (2005). Politics of piety: The Islamic revival and the feminist subject. Princeton: Princeton University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Roy, O. (2004). Globalised Islam: The search for a new Ummah. London: Hurst.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sandıkcı, Ö., & Ger, G. (2010). Veiling in style: How does a stigmatized practice become fashionable? Journal of Consumer Research, 37, 15–36.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Schlafrig, M. (2010, July 13). Personal interview, New York.

    Google Scholar 

  • Scott, J. W. (2007). The politics of the veil. Princeton: Princeton University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sedgewick, E. K. (1993). Queer performativity: Henry James’s The art of the Novel. GLQ, 1(1), 1–16.

    Google Scholar 

  • Slade, S. (2010, July 8). Personal interview, Orem, Utah.

    Google Scholar 

  • Tajima-Simpson, H. (2010, 3 November). Personal interview, London.

    Google Scholar 

  • Tarlo, E. (2010). Visibly Muslim: Fashion, politics, faith. Oxford: Berg.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Tarlo, E. (2013). Meeting through modesty: Jewish-Muslim encounters on the internet. In R. Lewis (Ed.), Modest fashion: Styling bodies, mediating faith (pp. 67–90). London: IB Tauris.

    Google Scholar 

  • Temporal, P. (2011). The future of Islamic branding and marketing. In Ö. Sandıkı & G. Rice (Eds.), Handbook of Islamic marketing (pp. 465–483). Cheltenham: Edward Elgar.

    Google Scholar 

  • Werbner, P. (2007). Veiled interpretations in pure space: Honour, shame and embodied struggles among Muslims in Britain and France. Theory, Culture and Society, 24(2), 161–186.

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Reina Lewis .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2015 Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Lewis, R. (2015). Fashion, Shame and Pride: Constructing the Modest Fashion Industry in Three Faiths. In: Brunn, S. (eds) The Changing World Religion Map. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-017-9376-6_136

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics