Abstract
The chapter delves into the self-enforced set of norms devised by the fashion community to regulate industry practices and deal with protection of their intellectual property rights. In this light, the contribution investigates how official intellectual property law and informal norms interact with each other, and highlights how a pluralistic approach to this subject matter can be beneficial in assessing innovative solutions.
This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Notes
- 1.
Haute Couture refers to the creation of exclusive fashions. It is a common term for custom-fitted clothing as produced primarily in Paris but also in other fashion capitals such as New York, London, and Milan (Beverly Hills Design Institute n.d.).
- 2.
Karen Millen Fashions Ltd. v Dunnes Stores, Dunnes Stores (Limerick) Ltd. (2014) C-345/13.
- 3.
Cathy Horyn is critic-at-large for the New York Magazine’s fashion website The Cut. Suzy Menkes is a British fashion critic and International Fashion Editor for several online editions of Vogue Magazine.
- 4.
Young talents such as Simone Rocha (Ireland), Emilio De La Morena (Spain), Mary Katranzou (Greece), Felder Felder (Germany) and Sass & Bide (Australia) all show their collection during London Fashion Week.
- 5.
Société Yves Saint Laurent Couture S.A. v. Société Louis Dreyfus Retail Mgmt. S.A. (1994). E.C.C. 512, 514 Trib. Comm. Paris.
- 6.
Alexander McQueen can be considered the primary example of this theory. By staying true to his controversial vision and values throughout his career, he created and maintained such a distinctively unique reputational capital that the brand-aura outlived him and continues to be the main reason of the label’s success. As stated in an article on the designer which was featured on the website of the fashion magazine AnOther, “things continue to move forward, and Lee’s legacy remains in every stitch—as it should” (Allwood 2015).
References
Agins T (2000) The end of fashion: how marketing changed the clothing business forever. William Morrow, New York
Allwood AE (2015) How does McQueen’s legacy live on? [online]. An Other Magazine, 18 June. Available at www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/7519/how-does-mcqueen-s-legacy-live-on
Barthes R (1992) The fashion system. University of California Press, Oakland
Beebe B (2010) Intellectual property law and the sumptuary code. Harvard Law Rev 123(4):809–889
Beverly Hills Design Institute (n.d.). Haute couture. [online]. Available at www.bhdi.edu/industry/haute-couture/what-is-haute-couture/
Bonelli G (2003) Note sulla Nuova Disciplina Legislativa del Disegno Industriale. Il Diritto d’Autore 4:297
Bourdieu P (1993) The field of cultural production: essays on art and literature. Polity Press, Cambridge
Bussani M (2010) Il diritto dell’Occidente. Geopolitica delle regole globali. Einaudi, Turin
Bussani M (2011) A pluralist approach to mixed jurisdictions. J Comp Law 6:161–168
Bussani M (2013) The (legal) culture of cultural property. In: The 1970 Unesco convention. New challenges. Mexico City: Universidad Nacional Autonoma de México, pp 401–410
Cheng T (2006) Power, norms, and intellectual property law. Michigan J Int Law 28(109):109–156
Cooke Newhouse R (2013) Rei Kawakubo [online]. Interview Magazine Online. Available at www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/rei-kawakubo/#
Derclaye E (2010) Are fashion designers better protected in continental Europe than in the United Kingdom? A comparative analysis of the recent case law in France, Italy and the United Kingdom. J World Intellect Property 13(3):315–365
Deserti A (2014) Shaping the identity of Italian fashion brands: the role of design between tangible and intangible. Fashion Pract 6(2):243–262
Di Stefano G (2014) Kitchen confidential? Norms for the use of transferred knowledge in gourmet cuisine. Strateg Manag J 35(11):1645–1670
English B (2011) Sartorial deconstruction: the nature of conceptualism in postmodernist Japanese fashion design. Int J Humanit 9(2):81–85
Farkas T (2011a) Does the United Kingdom need a general law against unfair competition? A fashion industry insight: Part 1. Eur Intellect Property Rev 33(4):227–237
Farkas T (2011b) Does the United Kingdom need a general law against unfair competition? A fashion industry insight: Part 2. Eur Intellect Property Rev 33(5):290–298
Fauchart E, von Hippel E (2006) Norms-based intellectual property systems: the case of French chefs. MIT Sloan Sch Manag Pap 4576–06:5
Givan R (2007) In hip’s tight grip [online]. The Washington Post, 13 Sept. Available at www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/09/12/AR2007091202646.html
Gracz K (2013) Bridging the gaps between social and legal norms concerning protection of intellectual and artistic creations: on the crisis of copyright law in the digital era. J World Intellect Property 16(1–2):39–57
Graham D (2009) Fashion icon pays up in copycat spat [online]. Toronto Star, 13 May. Available at www.thestar.com/life/fashion_style/2009/05/13/fashion_icon_pays_up_in_copycat_spat.html
Granovetter M (1985) Economic action and social structure: the problem of embeddedness. Am J Sociol 91(3):481–510
Hemphill SC, Suk J (2009) The law, culture, and economic of fashion. Stanford Law Rev 61:101–154
Hetcher SA (2009) Using social norms to regulate fan fiction and remix culture. Univ Pennsylvania Law Rev 157(6):1869–1935
Horyn C (2007) Citizen anna [online]. The New York Times, 1 Feb. Available at www.nytimes.com/2007/02/01/fashion/01WINTOUR.html?ex=1327986000&_r=0
Horyn C (2012a) Amid new looks, a new way to see [online]. The New York Times, 4 Mar. Available at www.nytimes.com/2012/03/05/fashion/comme-des-garcons-rei-kawakubo-lanvin-gaultier-celine-and-junya-watanabe-on-the-paris-runways.html
Horyn C (2012b) Like mona lisa, ever so veiled [online]. The New York Times, 30 May. Available at www.nytimes.com/2012/05/31/fashion/rei-kawakubo-of-comme-des-garcons-veiled-like-mona-lisa.html
Howard L (2009) An uningenious paradox: intellectual property protections for fashion designs. Columbia J Law Arts 32(3):101–131
INTA (2017) Brexit. INTA position paper on intellectual property rights issues [online]. October. Available at www.inta.org/Advocacy/Documents/2017/2017-BREXIT-INTAs%20recommendations%20on%20IPRs.pdf
Kahan DM (2000) Gentle nudges versus hard shoves: solving the sticky norms problem. Univ Chicago Law Rev 67:607–645
Kaur Rai A (1999) Regulating scientific research: intellectual property rights and the norms of science. Northwest Univ Law Rev 94(1):77–152
Klein M (2008) The rise to prominence of british fashion in the 1960’s: economic, cultural, and political foundations [online]. Stanford Undergraduate Res J 7(1). Available at www.web.stanford.edu/group/journal/cgi-bin/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/SURJ7final1.pdf
Kolsun B, Jimenez GC (2010) Fashion law: a guide for designers, fashion executives and attorneys. Fairchild Books, New York
Landers AL (2014) The anti-economy of fashion; an openwork approach to intellectual property protection. Fordham Intellect Property, Media Entertainment Law J 24(2):427–508
Lau V (2008) Can i borrow that? When designer “inspiration” jumps the fence to full-on derivation, the critics’ claws pop out [online]. W Magazine, 2008 Feb. Available at www.magazine.com/fashion/2008/02/fashion_derivations
Leslie MB (2006) Common law, common sense: fiduciary standards and trustee identity. Cardozo Law Rev 27(17):2713–2753
McAdams RH (1997) The origin, development and regulation of norms. Mich Law Rev 96(2):338–433
Menkes S (2007) Marc Jacobs disappoints with a freak show [online]. The New York Times, 12 Sept. Available at www.nytimes.com/2007/09/11/style/11iht-rsuzy12.1.7460746.html?_r=1&
Moore CM, Fernie J, Burt S (2000) Brands without boundaries. The internationalisation of the designer retailer’s brand. Eur J Mark 34(8):919–937
Neri G (2005) Sticky fingers or sticky norms? Unauthorized music downloading and unsettled social norms. Georgetown Law J 93:733–758
O’Byrne R (2009) Style city: how London became a fashion capital. Frances Lincoln, London
Olman RM (2013) Intellectual property and development: theory and practice. Springer, Berlin
Raustiala K, Sprigman C (2006) The piracy paradox: innovation and intellectual property in fashion design. Va Law Rev 92(8):1687–1777
Reed C, Anagnostopoulou M (2015). Using intellectual property in the creative industries [online]. White Paper. Creative Works London, London. Available at www.creativeworkslondon.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/White-Paper-Using-Intellectual-Property-in-the-Creative-Industries.pdf
Robinson DE (1975) Style changes: cyclical, inexorable, and foreseeable. Harvard Bus Rev 53:121–131
Sacco R (1995) Mute law. Am J Comp Law 43(3):455–467
Scafidi S (2007) Intellectual property and fashion design. In: Yu PK (ed) Intellectual property and information wealth. Praeger, I. Westport, pp 115–132
Scafidi S (2008) F.I.T.: Fashion as information technology. Syracuse Law Rev 59(69):69–90
Scafidi S (2009) DVF does the right thing [online]. Counterfeit Chic, 24 Apr. Available at www.counterfeitchic.com/busted/
Segre Reinach S (2010) Italian and Chinese agendas in the global fashion industry. In: Riello G, McNeil P (eds) The fashion history reader: global perspectives. Routledge, Abingdon, Oxon, pp 533–555
Segre Reinach S (2013) Italian fashion: the metamorphosis of a cultural industry. In: Lees-Maffei G, Fallan K (eds) Made in Italy rethinking a century of Italian design. Bloomsbury Academic, London, pp 239–254
Shultz MF (2007) Copynorms: copyright law and social norms. In: Yu PK (ed) Intellectual property and information wealth. Praeger, I. Westport, pp 201–237
Sinnreich A, Gluck M (2005) Music & Fashion: the balancing act between creativity and control [online]. In: Norman lear center conference, USC Anneberg school for communication, 29 Jan 2005. Available at www.learcenter.org/pdf/RTSSinnreichGluck.pdf
Style Flair Fashion (2014) A history of ready to wear clothing [online]. Available at www.styleflair.com/a-history-of-ready-to-wear-clothing/
Tell C (2008) Facing growing pains: indie bag brand soar, but tough road ahead [online]. Women’s Wear Daily, 14 Jan. Available at www.wwd.com/accessories-news/designer-luxury/facing-growing-pains-indie-bag-brands-soar-but-tough-road-ahead-470727/
The Ecology of Creativity in Fashion (2005) In: Ready to share: fashion and the ownership of creativity, USC Annenberg Norman Lear center conference, 29 Jan 2005 [online]. Available at www.learcenter.org/pdf/RTStranscript.pdf
UK Government (2014) Design forms and fees [online]. Available at www.gov.uk/government/publications/design-forms-and-fees
Wintour A (2009) Letter from the editor. Vogue US, Apr, pp 74
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2020 Springer Nature Switzerland AG
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Pigozzo, F. (2020). Informal Rules and Intellectual Property Regulation in the Fashion Industry. In: Fiorentini, F., Infantino, M. (eds) Mentoring Comparative Lawyers: Methods, Times, and Places . Ius Gentium: Comparative Perspectives on Law and Justice, vol 77. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-34754-3_8
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-34754-3_8
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-030-34753-6
Online ISBN: 978-3-030-34754-3
eBook Packages: Law and CriminologyLaw and Criminology (R0)