Abstract
We study the run-up of long solitary waves of different polarities on a beach in the case of composite bottom topography: a plane sloping beach transforms into a region of constant depth. We confirm that nonlinear wave deformation of positive polarity (wave crest) resulting in an increase in the wave steepness leads to a significant increase in the run-up height. It is shown that nonlinear effects are most strongly pronounced for the run-up of a wave with negative polarity (wave trough). In the latter case, the run-up height of such waves increases with their steepness and can exceed the amplitude of the incident wave.
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Original Russian Text © I.I. Didenkulova, E.N. Pelinovsky, O.I. Didenkulov, 2014, published in Izvestiya AN. Fizika Atmosfery i Okeana, 2014, Vol. 50, No. 5, pp. 604–611.
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Didenkulova, I.I., Pelinovsky, E.N. & Didenkulov, O.I. Run-up of long solitary waves of different polarities on a plane beach. Izv. Atmos. Ocean. Phys. 50, 532–538 (2014). https://doi.org/10.1134/S000143381405003X
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1134/S000143381405003X