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A numerical study of the dynamics of the wave-driven circulation within a fringing reef system

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Abstract

The circulation driven by wave breaking, tides and winds within a fringing coral reef system (Ningaloo Reef) in Western Australia was investigated using the ocean circulation model ROMS two-way coupled to the wave model SWAN. Currents within the system were dominantly forced by wave breaking, with flow driven over the shallow reefs and towards the lagoon, which returned to the ocean through channels in the reef. Hindcast model simulations were compared against an extensive field dataset, revealing that the coupled wave–circulation model could accurately predict the waves and currents throughout this morphologically complex reef–lagoon system. A detailed momentum budget analysis showed that, over the reef, a dominant cross-shore balance was established between radiation stress gradients and a pressure (mean water level) gradient (similar to a beach). Within the lagoon, alongshore currents were primarily balanced by alongshore gradients in wave setup, which drove flow towards (and ultimately out) the channels. The importance of these wave-driven currents to Ningaloo Reef was quantified over a full seasonal cycle, during periods when wave and wind conditions significantly differed. These results showed that wave breaking still overwhelmingly dominated the circulation and flushing of Ningaloo Reef throughout the year, with winds playing an insignificant role.

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Acknowledgements

Funding for this project was provided by the Australian Research Council Discovery Grant # DP0770094 to RJL and a grant to the authors from the Western Australian Marine Science Institution (WAMSI Project 3.5). We are especially thankful to Richard Brinkman (Australian Institute of Marine Science) for supporting the field work in this project, as well as Cyprien Bosserelle (The University of Western Australia) for providing access to his WW3 wave model results. We also thank W. Klonowski and M. Lynch of Curtin University for providing access to processed hyperspectral bathymetry data for the region.

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. School of Environmental Systems Engineering, The University of Western Australia, 6009, Crawley, Australia

    Soheila Taebi, Charitha B. Pattiaratchi & Greg N. Ivey

  2. The UWA Oceans Institute, The University of Western Australia, 6009, Crawley, Australia

    Soheila Taebi, Ryan J. Lowe, Charitha B. Pattiaratchi & Greg N. Ivey

  3. School of Earth and Environment, The University of Western Australia, 6009, Crawley, Australia

    Ryan J. Lowe

  4. CSIRO Marine and Atmospheric Research, 6014, Floreat, Australia

    Graham Symonds

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  1. Soheila Taebi
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Correspondence to Soheila Taebi.

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Responsible Editor: Chari Pattiaratchi

This article is part of the Topical Collection on Physics of Estuaries and Coastal Seas 2010

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Taebi, S., Lowe, R.J., Pattiaratchi, C.B. et al. A numerical study of the dynamics of the wave-driven circulation within a fringing reef system. Ocean Dynamics 62, 585–602 (2012). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-011-0514-4

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