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Topische Applikation von Vitaminen, Phytosterolen und Ceramiden

Schutz vor vermehrter Expression der interstitiellen Kollagenase und verminderter Kollagen-I-Expression nach 1-maliger UVA-Bestrahlung

Topical applictaion of vitamins, phytosterols and ceramides

Protection against increased expression of interstital collagenase and reduced collagen-I expression after single exposure to UVA irradiation

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Zusammenfassung

Lichtgealterte Haut ist durch eine Rarefizierung dermaler Kollagenfasern charakterisiert, die Folge eines vermehrten Abbaus und einer verminderten Neusynthese ist. Der vermehrte Abbau resultiert aus einer gesteigerten Expression von Matrixmetalloproteinasen (MMPs). An der De-novo-Synthese entscheidend beteiligt sind die Kollagengene COL1A1 und COL1A2, deren Expression in lichtgealterter oder UV-bestrahlter Haut vermindert ist. In der Studie wurde untersucht, ob die topische Behandlung mit Vitaminen, Phytosterolen und Ceramiden zu einer Hemmung der UV-induzierten Aufregulation der MMP-1-Expression und zu einer Hemmung der UV-induzierten Herabregulation und/oder zu einer Aufregulation der COL1A1- und COL1A2-Expression führt. Hierzu wurden 10 hautgesunde Probanden für 10 Tage vergleichend mit einem Jojobaöl-haltigen Basispräparat, diesem Basispräparat plus Vitaminen, diesem Basispräparat plus Phytosterolen und Ceramiden und diesem Basispräparat plus Vitaminen, Phytosterolen und Ceramiden behandelt. Alle 4 Testpräparate verhinderten die UV-induzierte Aufregulation der MMP-1-Expression signifikant. Das Basispräparat hemmte weder mit noch ohne Vitaminzusatz die UV-induzierte Herabregulation der COL1A1- und COL1A2-Expression, hierfür war die Zugabe von Ceramiden und Phytosterolen erforderlich. Die Ergebnisse zeigen, dass Phytosterole und Ceramide geeignete „Actives“ sind, die zur Hemmung der nach UV-Bestrahlung eingeschränkten Kollagensynthese und zu ihrer Stimulation angewendet werden können. Diese Inhaltsstoffe könnten daher eine Ergänzung von Anti-Aging-Produkten darstellen.

Abstract

Photoaged skin is characterized by a decrease of dermal collagen fibers, resulting from an increased breakdown and a diminished de novo synthesis. The increased breakdown results from an increased expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). The main building blocks involved in de novo synthesis of collagen fibers are collagen 1A1 and 1A2, the expression of which is reduced in photoaged skin. We studied the effect of topical application of vitamins, phytosterols and ceramides on UV-induced up-regulation of the expression of MMP-1 and on UV-induced down-regulation of COL1A1 and COL1A2. The study was conducted with 10 subjects with healthy skin who were comparatively treated for 10 days with (i) a basic preparation containing jojoba oil, (ii) the basic preparation supplemented with vitamins, (iii) the basic preparation supplemented with phytosterols and ceramides, and (iv) the basic preparation supplemented with vitamins, phytosterols and ceramides. All four preparations inhibited the UV induced up-regulation of MMP-1. Neither the basic product nor that supplemented with vitamins inhibited down-regulation of COL1A1 and COL1A2, but addition of phytosterols and ceramides caused a decreased down-regulation of the expression of these genes. Our results indicate that phytosterols and ceramides are effective in blocking the reduced collagen synthesis after UV irradiation and even stimulating synthesis. They may be useful additions to anti-aging products.

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Interessenkonflikt

Der korrespondierende Autor weist auf folgende Beziehung hin: Die Untersuchung wurde finanziell durch eine Förderung der Firma Apotheker Walter Bouhon GmbH, Nürnberg, unterstützt.

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  1. Institut für Umweltmedizinische Forschung (IUF) an der Heinrich-Heine-Universität Düsseldorf gGmbH, Auf’m Hennekamp 50, 40225, Düsseldorf, Deutschland

    S. Grether-Beck, K. Mühlberg, H. Brenden & J. Krutmann

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  1. S. Grether-Beck
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  2. K. Mühlberg
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  3. H. Brenden
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  4. J. Krutmann
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Correspondence to S. Grether-Beck.

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Gefördert durch das frei Hautforschungsinstitut.

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Grether-Beck, S., Mühlberg, K., Brenden, H. et al. Topische Applikation von Vitaminen, Phytosterolen und Ceramiden. Hautarzt 59, 557–562 (2008). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00105-008-1554-7

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00105-008-1554-7

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