Abstract
Bacterial polysaccharides are extensively used in cosmetic products, especially given their diverse properties and functionalities, assuming an important role in the R&D of new formulations and applications. In this chapter, the principal properties of the main polysaccharides present in this area are described and summarized. Advancements in skin biology knowledge, and the study of new formulations, support the research of active ingredients related to the maintenance of skin integrity and barrier function. Bacterial polysaccharides possess several properties (such as biocompatibility, biodegradability, film-forming, gelling, and thickening) that can provide protective effects on the skin, improving the efficacy of formulations while maintaining the skin in good conditions. Additionally, polysaccharides, which can be processed in emulsions, hydrogels, suspensions, and encapsulating structures, have been demonstrated to enhance the stability of formulations and promote sensorial properties. Data from several clinical studies revealed that the polysaccharide-based formulations promote skin health, with applications in several skin disorder treatments.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Similar content being viewed by others
References
Alves VD, Torres CA, Freitas F. Bacterial polymers as materials for the development of micro/nanoparticles. Int J Polym Mater Polym Biomater. 2016;65(5):211–24.
Ammala A. Biodegradable polymers as encapsulation materials for cosmetics and personal care markets. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2013;35(2):113–24.
Amorim JDP, Galdino CJS, Costa AFS, et al. Biomask, a polymer blend for treatment and healing of skin prone to acne. Chem Eng Trans. 2020;79:205–10.
Balkrishna A, Agarwal V, Kumar G, et al. Applications of bacterial polysaccharides with special reference to the cosmetic industry. In: Singh J, Sharma D, Kumar G, Sharma NR, editors. Microbial bioprospecting for sustainable development. Singapore: Springer; 2018. p. 189–202.
Basketter D, Whitte R. Legislative aspects of cosmetic safety in the European Union: the case of contact allergy. Cosmetics. 2016;3(17):1–7.
Becker LC, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Final report of the safety assessment of hyaluronic acid, potassium hyaluronate, and sodium hyaluronate. Int J Toxicol. 2009;28(4):5–67.
BeMiller JN. Polysaccharides: properties. In: BeMiller JN, editor. Carbohydrate chemistry for food scientists. 3rd ed. Duxford: Elsevier; 2019. p. 103–57.
Bhavani AL, Nisha J. Dextran – the polysaccharide with versatile uses. Int J Pharm Bio Sci. 2010;1(4):569–73.
Bilal M, Iqbal HMN. New insights on unique features and role of nanostructured materials in cosmetics. Cosmetics. 2020;7(2):24. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7020024.
Bodade RG, Bodade AG. Microencapsulation of bioactive compounds and enzymes for therapeutic applications. In: Pal K, Banerjee I, Sarkar P, Kim D, Deng W-P, Dubey NK, Majumder K, editors. Biopolymer-based formulations. 1st ed. Amsterdam: Elsevier; 2020. p. 381–404.
Boehncke W-H, Schön MP. Psoriasis. Lancet. 2015;386(9997):983–94.
Bohnenblust-Woertz K, Surber C. The “magic” effects of dermatologic and cosmetic vehicles. In: Barel AO, Paye M, Maibach HI, editors. Handbook of cosmetic science and technology. 4th ed. New York: Marcel Dekker Inc; 2014. p. 175–88.
Boyer IJ, Bergfeld WF, Heldreth B, et al. The cosmetic ingredient review program – expert safety assessments of cosmetic ingredients in an open forum. Int J Toxicol. 2017;36(5):5S–13S.
Buchmann S. Main cosmetic vehicles. In: Barel AO, Paye M, Maibach HI, editors. Handbook of cosmetic science and technology. New York: Marcel Dekker; 2001. p. 145–69.
Bukhari SNA, Roswandi NL, Waqas M, et al. Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomedicine: a review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects. Int J Biol Macromol. 2018;120:1682–95.
Casanova F, Santos L. Encapsulation of cosmetic active ingredients for topical application – a review. J Microencapsul. 2015;33(1):1–17.
Cheaburu Yilmaz CNC, Pamfil D, Vasile C, et al. Toxicity, biocompatibility, pH-responsiveness and methotrexate release from PVA/hyaluronic acid cryogels for psoriasis therapy. Polymers. 2017;9(12):123. https://doi.org/10.3390/polym9040123.
Chen LH, Xue JF, Zheng ZY, et al. Hyaluronic acid, an efficient biomacromolecule for treatment of inflammatory skin and joint diseases: a review of recent developments and critical appraisal of preclinical and clinical investigations. Int J Biol Macromol. 2018;116:572–84.
Choi WI, Hwang Y, Sahu A, et al. An injectable and physical Levan-based hydrogel as a dermal filler for soft tissue augment. Biomater Sci. 2018;6(10):2627–38.
Domżał-Kędzia M, Lewińska A, Jaromin A, et al. Fermentation parameters and conditions affecting Levan production and its potential applications in cosmetics. Bioorg Chem. 2019;93:102787. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bioorg.2019.02.012.
Draelos ZD. A clinical evaluation of the comparable efficacy of hyaluronic acid-based foam and ceramide-containing emulsion cream in the treatment of mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2011;10(3):185–8.
Du H, Liu P, Zhu J, et al. Hyaluronic acid dissolving microneedle patch loaded with methotrexate for improved treatment of psoriasis. ACS Appl Mater Interfaces. 2019;11(46):43588–98.
Dubuisson P, Picard C, Grisel M, et al. How does composition influence the texture of cosmetic emulsions? Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp. 2018;536:38–46.
EC. The European Parliament and the Council of the European Union. Regulation No. 1223/2009 of the European parliament and of the council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products. Official Journal of the European Union L 342/59. 2009. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2009:342:0059:0209:en:PDF
Epstein H. Cosmeceutical vehicles. Clin Dermatol. 2009;27(5):453–60.
Faieta M, Corradini MG, Di Michele A, et al. Effect of encapsulation process on technological functionality and stability of Spirulina platensis extract. Food Biophys. 2019;15:50–63.
Fallacara A, Baldini E, Manfredini S, Vertuani S. Hyaluronic acid in the third millennium. Polymers. 2018;10(7):701. https://doi.org/10.3390/polym10070701.
Fiume MM, Heldreth B, Bergfeld WF, et al. Safety assessment of microbial polysaccharide gums as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2016;35(1):5S–49S.
Foroughi-Heravani N, Hadavandkhani M, Arjmand B, et al. Principles of good clinical practice. In: Arjmand B, Payab M, Goodarzi P, editors. Biomedical product development: bench to bedside. Cham: Springer Nature; 2020. p. 99–106.
Frankel A, Sohn A, Patel RV, et al. Bilateral comparison study of pimecrolimus cream 1% and a ceramide-hyaluronic acid emollient foam in the treatment of patients with atopic dermatitis. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011;10(6):666–72.
Freitas F, Alves VD, Reis MAM. Bacterial polysaccharides: production and applications in cosmetic industry. In: Ramawat KG, Mérillon JM, editors. Polysaccharides. Cham: Springer International Publishing; 2014. p. 2017–43.
Gallegos AMA, Carrera SH, Parra R, et al. Bacterial cellulose: Bacterial cellulose. Bioresources. 2016;11(2):5641–55.
Gruber JV. Polysaccharide-based polymers in cosmetics. In: Goddard ED, Gruber JV, editors. Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetics and personal care. Medicine & health science books, vol. 22. 1st ed. New York: Marcel Dekker Inc; 1999. p. 325–59.
Guetta O, Mazeau K, Auzely R, et al. Structure and properties of a bacterial polysaccharide named Fucogel. Biomacromolecules. 2003;4(5):1362–71.
Halachmi S, Amitai DB, Lapidoth M. Treatment of acne scars with hyaluronic acid: an improved approach. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(7):121–3.
Halla N, Fernandes I, Heleno S, et al. Cosmetics preservation: a review on present strategies. Molecules. 2018;23(7):1571. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules23071571.
Hebert AA, Pacha O. Treating atopic dermatitis: safety, efficacy, and patient acceptability of a ceramide hyaluronic acid emollient foam. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2012;5:39–42.
Hosoi J, Koyama J, Ozawa T. New aspects of cosmetics and cosmetic science. In: Sakamoto K, Lochhead RY, Maibach HI, Yamashita Y, editors. Cosmetic science and technology: theoretical principles and applications. Amsterdam: Elsevier; 2017. p. 87–100.
Hussain-Gambles M. Halal personal hygiene and cosmetics. In: Al-Teinaz YR, Spear S, Abd El-Rahim IHA, editors. The halal food handbook. New York: Willey-Blackwell; 2020. p. 183–96.
Huynh A, Priefer R. Hyaluronic acid applications in ophthalmology, rheumatology, and dermatology. Carbohydr Res. 2020;489:107950. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.carres.2020.107950.
Jesumani V, Du H, Pei P, et al. Unravelling property of polysaccharides from Sargassum sp. as an anti-wrinkle and skin whitening property. Int J Biol Macromol. 2019;140:216–24.
Jindal M, Khattar J. Microbial polysaccharides in food industry. In: Grumezescu AM, Holban AM, editors. Biopolymers for food design. Cambridge: Academic; 2018. p. 95–123.
Kanlayavattanakul M, Lourith N. Biopolysaccharides for skin hydrating cosmetics. In: Ramawat KG, Mérillon JM, editors. Polysaccharides. Cham: Springer International Publishing; 2014. p. 1867–92.
Kim K, Kim K, Kim T et al. Cosmetic composition containing Levan having cell- proliferation, skin-moisturizing and irritation- alleviating effects Japan patent JP2003277225A. 2003. 2 October 2003
Kong M, Chen XG, Kweon DK, et al. Investigations on skin permeation of hyaluronic acid based nanoemulsion as transdermal carrier. Carbohydr Polym. 2011;86(2):837–43.
Kusumawati I, Indrayanto G. Natural antioxidants in cosmetics. Stud Nat Prod Chem. 2013;40:485–505.
Lai-Cheong JE, McGrath JA. Structure and function of skin, hair and nails. Medicine. 2013;41(6):317–20.
Lautenschläger H. Additives in cosmetic products. Kosmetische Praxis 2004;1:8–10.
Lawton S. Skin 1: the structure and functions of the skin. Nursing Times [online]. 2019;115(12):30–3.
Leijs MM, Esser A, Amann PM, Schettgen T, Gube M, Merk HF, Kraus T, Baron JM. Hyperpigmentation and higher incidence of cutaneous malignancies in moderate-high PCB- and dioxin exposed individuals. Environ Res. 2018;164:221–8.
Li J, Yuan X, Tang Y, Wang B, Deng Z, Huang Y, Liu F, Zhao Z, Zhang Y. Hydroxychloroquine is a novel therapeutic approach for rosacea. Int Immunopharmacol. 2020;79:106178.
Lima Fontes M, Meneguin AB, Tercjak A, et al. Effect of in situ modification of bacterial cellulose with carboxymethylcellulose on its nano/microstructure and methotrexate release properties. Carbohydr Polym. 2018;179:126–34.
Lintner K, Mas-Chamberlin C, Mondon F. Cosmeceuticals and active ingredients. Clin Dermatol. 2009;27:461–8.
Lochhead RY. The use of polymers in cosmetic products. In: Sakamoto K, Lochhead RY, Maibach H, Yamashita Y, editors. Cosmetic science and technology: theoretical principles and applications. Amsterdam: Elsevier; 2017. p. 171–221.
Long CC. Common skin disorders and their topical treatment. In: Walters KA, editor. Dermatological and transdermal formulations. New York: Informa Healthcare; 2002. p. 41–58.
Lourenço SC, Torres CAV, Nunes D, et al. Using a bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide as encapsulation material of bioactive compounds. Int J Biol Macromol. 2017;104:1099–106.
Martins D, Estevinho B, Rocha F, et al. A dry and fully dispersible bacterial cellulose formulation as a stabilizer for oil-in-water emulsions. Carbohydr Polym. 2020;230:115657. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.carbpol.2019.115657.
Mathe N, Loffeld A. The management of eczema in children. Paediatr Child Health. 2019;29(2):52–8.
McCarthy RR, Ullah MW, Booth P, et al. The use of bacterial polysaccharides in bioprinting. Biotechnol Adv. 2019;37:107448.
Michelon M, Leopércio BC, Carvalho MS. Microfluidic production of aqueous suspensions of gellan-based microcapsules containing hydrophobic compounds. Chem Eng Sci. 2019;211:115314. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ces.2019.115314.
Mitura S, Sionkowska A, Jaiswal A. Biopolymers for hydrogels in cosmetics: review. J Mater Sci Mater Med. 2020;31(6):50. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10856-020-06390-w.
Monteiro-Riviere NA. Structure and function of skin. In: Riviere JE, editor. Dermal absorption models in toxicology and pharmacology. Boca Raton: CRC, Taylor and Francis; 2006. p. 1–19.
Musa SH, Basri M, Fard Masoumi HR, et al. Enhancement of physicochemical properties of nanocolloidal carrier loaded with cyclosporine for topical treatment of psoriasis: in vitro diffusion and in vivo hydrating action. Int J Nanomedicine. 2017;12:2427–41.
Nohynek GJ, Antignac E, Re T, et al. Safety assessment of personal care products/cosmetics and their ingredients. Toxicol Appl Pharmacol. 2010;243(2):239–59.
Nwodo UU, Green E, Okoh AI. Bacterial exopolysaccharides: functionality and prospects. Int J Mol Sci. 2012;13(11):14002–15.
Pauwels M, Rogiers V. Safety evaluation of cosmetics in the EU. Toxicol Lett. 2004;151(1):7–17.
Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, et al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011;10(9):990–1000.
Poetschke J, Schwaiger H, Steckmeier S, et al. Anti-wrinkle creams with hyaluronic acid: how effective are they? MMW Fortschr Med. 2016;158(S4):1–6.
Ramalingam C, Priya J, Mundra S. Applications of microbial polysaccharides in food industry. Int J Pharmaceut Sci Rev Res. 2014;27(1):322–4.
Roca C, Alves VD, Freitas F, et al. Exopolysaccharides enriched in rare sugars: bacterial sources, production, and applications. Front Microbiol. 2015;6:288. https://doi.org/10.3389/fmicb.2015.00288.
Savary G, Grisel M, Picard C. Cosmetics and personal care products. In: Olatunji O, editor. Natural polymers. Cham: Springer International Publishing; 2016. p. 219–61.
Schlesinger TC, Rowland P. Efficacy and safety of a low-molecular weight hyaluronic acid topical gel in the treatment of facial seborrheic dermatitis. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2014;7(5):15–8.
Shanmugam M, Abirami RG. Microbial polysaccharides – chemistry and applications. J Biol Active Prod Nature. 2019;9(1):73–8.
Silva SS, Fernandes EM, Pina S, et al. 2.11 polymers of biological origin. In: Ducheyne P, editor. Comprehensive biomaterials II. 2nd ed. Oxford: Elsevier; 2017. p. 228–52.
Siqueira EC, Rebouças JS, Pinheiro IO, et al. Levan-based nanostructured systems: an overview. Int J Pharm. 2020;580:119242. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2020.119242.
Song B, Song R, Cheng M, et al. Preparation of Calcipotriol emulsion using bacterial exopolysaccharides as emulsifier for percutaneous treatment of psoriasis vulgaris. Int J Mol Sci. 2019;21(1):77. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms21010077.
Turnbull SE. Cosmetics. In: Pacifici E, Bain S, editors. An overview of FDA regulated products. Cambridge: Academic; 2018. p. 217–29.
Ullah H, Santos HA, Khan T. Applications of bacterial cellulose in food, cosmetics and drug delivery. Cellulose. 2016;23(4):2291–314.
Vary JC. Selected disorders of skin appendages – acne, alopecia, hyperhidrosis. Med Clin N Am. 2015;99(6):1195–211.
Yamada M, Prow TW. Physical drug delivery enhancement for aged skin, UV damaged skin and skin cancer: translation and commercialization. Adv Drug Deliv Rev. 2020;153:2–17.
Yildiz H, Karatas N. Microbial exopolysaccharides: resources and bioactive properties. Process Biochem. 2018;72:41–6.
Zia KM, Tabasum S, Khan MF, et al. Recent trends on gellan gum blends with natural and synthetic polymers: a review. Int J Biol Macromol. 2018;109:1068–87.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2022 Springer Nature Switzerland AG
About this entry
Cite this entry
Baptista, S., Freitas, F. (2022). Bacterial Polysaccharides: Cosmetic Applications. In: Oliveira, J.M., Radhouani, H., Reis, R.L. (eds) Polysaccharides of Microbial Origin. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-42215-8_45
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-42215-8_45
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-030-42214-1
Online ISBN: 978-3-030-42215-8
eBook Packages: Biomedical and Life SciencesReference Module Biomedical and Life Sciences