Encyclopedia of Lakes and Reservoirs

2012 Edition
| Editors: Lars Bengtsson, Reginald W. Herschy, Rhodes W. Fairbridge

Wind Waves

Reference work entry
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4020-4410-6_251


Water waves; Waves; Wind sea

What is a wind wave

Oscillations of a (water) surface can be generated by a large variety of reasons. In this chapter we will describe the ones due to the action of wind on the surface, their generation, evolution and effects.

The basic idea of a wave is a regular sinusoidal oscillation of the surface, this oscillation being characterized by height H, period T (hence frequency f and length L) and direction. In deep water, i.e. on a depth larger than half the wavelength, period, frequency and length are related by
$${{\rm{f}} = {1}/{\rm{T}}} \quad {{\rm{L}} = ({\rm{g}}/{\rm{2\pi}}){ }{{\rm{T}}^{{2}}}} \quad {{\rm{c}} = {\rm{L}}/{\rm{T}} =({\rm{g}}/{\rm{2\pi }}){\rm{ T}}} $$
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Copyright information

© Springer Science+Business Media B.V. 2012

Authors and Affiliations

  1. 1.Institute of Marine SciencesVeniceItaly