Design for Values in the Fashion and Textile Industry
Abstract
The fashion and textile industry is one of the largest industries in the world producing billions of garments every year with a remarkably low awareness of the moral issues associated with the production and use of garments. After a brief introduction to fashion as a cultural phenomenon, this chapter explains the life cycle of garment production and use, which uses large amounts of energy and water and deploys many toxic chemicals. Globalized production raises many issues around the ethical employment of staff. Design decisions have to be taken throughout the life cycle, but are often highly constrained by the commercial pressures of an industry with very low profit margins. Making moral decision in design is therefore in many cases a selection of the least harmful option. However, the chapter explains how some designers have found business models that allow them to produce garments in a least harmful way. The chapter concludes with a brief discussion of the conflicting drivers in design for value in the fashion and textile industry.
Keywords
Fashion and textiles Values Sustainability Ethical production Ethical consumptionReferences
- Allwood J, Laursen S, de Rodriguez CM, Bocken N (2006) Well Dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the UK. Institute for Manufacturing, Cambridge University, CambridgeGoogle Scholar
- Black S (2008) Eco chic: the fashion paradox. Black Dog Publishing, LondonGoogle Scholar
- Black S, Eckert CM (2009) Developing Considerate Design: meeting individual fashion and clothing needs within a framework of sustainability. In: Pillar F, Tseng M (eds) Making customer centricity work: advances in mass customisation and personalisation. World Scientific Press, Hackensack/London/Singapore, pp 108–146Google Scholar
- Cappetta R, Cillo P, Ponti A (2006) Convergent designs in fine fashion: an evolutionary model for stylistic innovation. Res Policy 35(9):1273–1290CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- Crommentuijn-Marsh P, Eckert CM, Potter S (2010) Consumer Behaviour towards sustainability in Fashion. In: Keer10, Paris, Feb 2010Google Scholar
- Davis F (1992) Fashion, culture, and identity. The University of Chicago Press, ChicagoGoogle Scholar
- Defra (2011) Sustainable clothing action plan. UK Government Department of Environment, Food and Rural Affairs, LondonGoogle Scholar
- EC (2001) Green paper: promoting a European framework for corporate social responsibility. DG Employment and Social Affairs, European Commission, BrusselsGoogle Scholar
- Eckert CM, Stacey MK (2000) Sources of inspiration: a language of design. Des Stud 21(5):523–538CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- Eckert CM (2001) The communication bottleneck in knitwear design: analysis and computing solutions. Comput Supported Coop Work 10(1):29–74CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- Eckert CM, Stacey MK (2001) Designing in the context of fashion – designing the fashion context designing in context. In: 5th design thinking research symposium, Delft University Press, Delft, 2001, pp 113–129Google Scholar
- Eckert CM, Stacey MK (2014) Overconstrained and underconstrained creativity: changing the rhetric to negotiate the boundaries of design. In: Blessing LTM, Qureshi AJ, Gericke K (eds) The future of transdisciplinary design. Springer, LondonGoogle Scholar
- Eskandarypur F, Black S, Eckert CM (2009) The development and positioning of the considerate design tool in the fashion and textile sector. In: Sustainable innovation 09, FarnhamGoogle Scholar
- Fletcher K (2008) Sustainable fashion and textiles. Earthscan, LondonGoogle Scholar
- Flügel JC (1930) The psychology of clothes. Hogarth Press, LondonGoogle Scholar
- IDE-JETRO (2013) http://www.oecd.org/dac/aft/AidforTrade_SectorStudy_Textiles.pdf
- Kamal Y, Deegan C (2013) Corporate social and environment-related governance disclosure practices in the textile and garment industry: evidence from a developing country. Aust Account Rev 23(2):117–134CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- Lee M (2007) Eco-Chic: the Savvy shoppers guide to ethical fashion. Octopus Publishing Group, LondonGoogle Scholar
- Lowe ED, Lowe JWG (1985) Quantitative analysis of women's dress. In: Solomon MR (ed) The psychology of fashion. Institute of Retail Management, New YorkGoogle Scholar
- Nordestgaard M, Kirton-Darling J (2004) Corporate social responsibility within the European sectoral social dialogue. Transf Eur Rev Labour Res 10(3):433–451CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- OECD (2004) A new world map in textiles and clothing: adjusting to change. Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development, ParisGoogle Scholar
- Polhemus T, Procter L (1978) Fashion & anti-fashion: an anthropology of clothing and adornment. Thames and Hudson, LondonGoogle Scholar
- Siegle L, Burke J (2014) We Are What We Wear: Unravelling fast fashion and the collapse of Rana Plaza, Guardian shorts, http://guardianshorts.co.uk/wearewhatwewear/
- Simon-Miller F (1985) Commentary: signs and cycles in the fashion system. In: Solomon MR (ed) The psychology of fashion. Institute of Retail Management, New YorkGoogle Scholar
- Sinha P, Shah R (2010) Creating a global vision for sustainable textiles. In: “Textiles: a global vision” the textiles institute centenary world conference, Manchester, 3–4 Nov 2010Google Scholar
- Sinha P, Beverley KJ, Day CL, Tipi NS (2012) Supply chains for the management of post-consumer apparel waste: three scenarios addressing the UK-Tanzania context. In: Proceedings of the 18th international sustainable development research conference, The University of Hull, HullGoogle Scholar
- Sproles GB, Burns LD (1994) Changing appearances. Fairchild Publications, New YorkGoogle Scholar
- Welters L, Lillethun A (eds) (2011) The fashion reader, 2nd edn. Berg, OxfordGoogle Scholar
- WRAP (2012) Valuing our clothes, report WRAPGoogle Scholar
- WWF (2008) http://assets.wwf.org.uk/downloads/water_footprint_uk.pdf. Accessed 12 May 2011
- Wynn D, Eckert CM, Clarkson PJ (2011) Simulating intertwined design processes that have similar structures: a case study of a small company that creates made-to-order fashion products. Int J Product Dev 14(1–4):118–146CrossRefGoogle Scholar