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Wave run-up. The vertical distance between the ocean (tide) level and the maximum height reached by the uprush of waves breaking on a beach or structure.
Wave set-up and set-down: Positive and negative changes in mean water level produced as waves shoal and break on beaches and reefs.
Wave thrust: A vertically integrated force per unit wave crest length produced by changes in wave momentum as waves propagate in shoaling and shallow water. It has two components; an isotropic pressure and a unidirectional force in the direction of wave propagation. Also known as radiation stress.
Shoaling. The process by which the wave height, length, celerity and other properties of the waves change as they travel from deep(er) water into shallow(er) water.
See also Chapter Waves and Wave-Driven Currents for definitions of other terms concerning waves.
Mathematical symbols are defined where they first appear in the text, or on a relevant figure. The subscript o refers to the deep water...
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