The beach profile is one the most studied features of coastal morphology. The shape of the beach profile determines the vulnerability of the coast to storms, the extent of usable beach for habitat and recreation, and the legal boundary distinguishing public and private ownership of land (Shalowitz 1962, 1964; Anders and Byrnes 1991). The first modern studies of the beach profile were motivated to understand its shape and variability in support of amphibious operations during World War II, when personnel and supply boats had to cross the beach profile from offshore to the dry beach (Bascom 1980).
Beach Profile Terminology
The term “beach profile”refers to a cross-sectional trace of the beach perpendicular to the high-tide shoreline and extends from the backshore cliff or dune to the inner continental shelf or a location where waves and currents do not transport sediment to and from the beach. The profile shape is variable, depending on the time of year within the annual beach cycle and,...
- Anders FJ, Byrnes MR (1991) Accuracy of shoreline change rates as determined from maps and aerial photographs. Shore Beach 59(1):17–26Google Scholar
- Bascom W (1980) Waves and Beaches: the dynamics of the ocean surface. Revised and Updated Edition. Anchor Books, Garden CityGoogle Scholar
- Bruun P (1954) Coast erosion and development of beach profiles. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Beach Erosion Board, Technical memorandum no. 44Google Scholar
- Dean RG (1977) Equilibrium beach profiles: U.S. Atlantic and Gulf coasts. Ocean engineering report, vol 12. Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, NewarkGoogle Scholar
- Dean RG (1991) Equilibrium beach profiles: principles and applications. J Coast Res 7(1):53–84Google Scholar
- Kraus NC, Larson M, Kriebel DL (1991) Evaluation of beach erosion and accretion predictors. In: Proceedings of coastal sediments’ 91. American Society of Civil Engineers, Seattle, pp 572–587Google Scholar
- Kraus NC, Larson M, Wise RA (1999) Depth of closure in beach-fill design. In: Proceedings of the 12th national conference on beach preservation technology. Florida Shore and Beach Preservation Association, Tallahassee, pp 271–286Google Scholar
- Kriebel DL, Kraus NC, Larson M (1991) Engineering methods for predicting beach profile response. In: Proceedings of coastal sediments’ 91. American Society of Civil Engineers, Seattle, pp 557–571Google Scholar
- Larson M, Kraus NC (1989) SBEACH: numerical model for simulating storm-induced beach change. Report 1: empirical foundation and model development. Technical report CERC-89-9, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station. Coastal Engineering Research Center, VicksburgGoogle Scholar
- Moore BD (1982) Beach profile evolution in response to changes in water level and wave height. MCE thesis, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, NewarkGoogle Scholar
- Shalowitz AL (1962) Shore and sea boundaries. volume 1: boundary problems associated with the submerged lands cases and the submerged lands acts. Publication 10-1. U.S. Department of Commerce, Coast and Geodetic Survey, Washington DC. 420 pGoogle Scholar
- Shalowitz AL (1964) Shore and sea boundaries. volume 2: interpretation and use of coast and geodetic survey data. Publication 10-1. U.S. Department of Commerce, Coast and Geodetic Survey, Washington DCGoogle Scholar