Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

The “Coptic” textiles of the “Museo Egizio” in Torino (Italy): a focus on dyes through a multi-technique approach

  • Original Paper
  • Published:
Archaeological and Anthropological Sciences Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

The Coptic textile collection of the Museo Egizio in Torino (Italy) has been the object of a broad project aimed at investigating the production techniques, at documenting the conservation state and at reconsidering the attributed age. The collection was also analysed by non-invasive and micro-invasive techniques with the aim of detecting the dyes that have been employed to obtain the colours, in order to complete the set of technological information available for each textile. The data collected in the present work have been compared with published results from other Coptic textile collections, with the aim of highlighting a possible link between the age of the textile and the dyes that were employed. Moreover, the combined use of spectroscopic and chromatographic techniques allowed us to compare the results for the non-invasive and the micro-invasive approaches and to go deeper into the dyeing technology by detecting unexpected combinations of dyes. In particular, the use of a double dyeing with madder and Indian lac dye was revealed in some Roman-Byzantine and Byzantine textiles from the collection.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Log in via an institution

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Institutional subscriptions

Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 7

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  • Abdel-Kareem O, Alawi MA, Mubarak MS (2010) Identification of dyestuff in a rare Coptic garment using high performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC-PDA). JTATM 6(3):1–7

    Google Scholar 

  • Aceto M, Agostino A, Fenoglio G, Idone A, Gulmini M, Picollo M, Ricciardi P, Delaney JK (2014) Characterisation of colourants on illuminated manuscripts by portable fibre optic UV-visible-NIR reflectance spectrophotometry. Anal Methods 6:1488–1500. doi:10.1039/C3AY41904E

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bénazet D (2007) Essai de datation par la methode du radiocarbone de vêtements à la mode orientale retrouvés à Antinoé et de quelques soieries apparentées. In: De Moor A (ed) Methods of dating ancient textiles of the 1st millennium AD from Egypt and neighbouring countries. Lannoo, Tielt, pp. 115–128

    Google Scholar 

  • Borla M (2013) Il progetto di studio e analisi dei coloranti dei tessili “copti” del Museo Antichità Egizie di Torino: notizia preliminare. In: Quaderni della Soprintendenza Archeologica del Piemonte (QSAP) 28, pp 337–341

  • Cabrera A, Rodriguez L (2007) The collection of Coptic textiles in the Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas, Madrid: the results of the dye analysis and 14C testing. In: De Moor A (ed) Methods of dating ancient textiles of the 1st millennium AD from Egypt and neighbouring countries. Lannoo, Tielt, pp. 129–137

    Google Scholar 

  • Cardon D (2007) Natural dyes: sources, tradition, technology and science, Archetype, London

  • Carey A, Rodewijk N, Xu X, van der Weerd J (2013) Identification of dyes on single textile fibers by HPLC-DAD-MS. Anal Chem 85:11335–11343. doi:10.1021/ac402173e

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Carroll DL (1986) Looms and textiles of the Copts, memoirs of the California Academy of Sciences, number 11. California Academy of Sciences/University of Washington Press, Seattle

    Google Scholar 

  • Claro A, Melo MJ, Schäferb S, Seixas de Melo JS, Pina F, van den Berg KJ, Burnstock A (2008) The use of micro-spectrofluorimetry for the characterization of lake pigments. Talanta 74:922–929. doi:10.1016/j.talanta.2007.07.036

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cooksey CJ (2001) Tyrian purple: 6,6′-dibromoindigo and related compounds. Molecules 6:736–769. doi:10.3390/60900736

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cooksey CJ (2007) Indigo: an annotated bibliography. Biotech Histochem 82:105–125. doi:10.1080/00958970701267235

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cortopassi R, Verhecken-Lammens C (2007) Tunics with loops: 14C, spinning, weaving, dyes and iconography. In: De Moor A (ed) Methods of dating ancient textiles of the 1st millennium AD from Egypt and neighbouring countries. Lannoo, Tielt, pp. 139–149

    Google Scholar 

  • De Jonghe D, Verhecken-Lammens C (1993) Technological discussion. In: De Moor A (ed) Coptic textiles from Flemish private collections. Provinciaal Archeologisch Museum van Zuid-Oost Vlaanderen, Velzeke, pp. 31–52

    Google Scholar 

  • De Moor A (2007) Radiocarbon dating of ancient textiles. State of research. In: De Moor A (ed) Methods of dating ancient textiles. Lannoo, Tielt, pp. 98–111

    Google Scholar 

  • De Moor A, Verhecken-Lammens C, Verhecken A, Maertens H (2008) 3500 years of textile art. Lannoo, Tielt

    Google Scholar 

  • Derksen GCH, Van Beek TA (2002) Rubia tinctorum L. Stud Nat Prod Chem 26:629–684. doi:10.1016/S1572-5995(02)80016-3

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Donadoni Roveri AM (1987) Arte della tessitura, moda e arredo. In: Donadoni Roveri AM (ed) Museo Egizio di Torino, Civiltà degli Egizi. La Vita Quotidiana, Milano, pp. 210–217

    Google Scholar 

  • Ferrari M, Liccioli L, Cardinali M, Borla M, Gallo P, Fedi M (2015) Il problema della datazione dei tessuti archeologici: la misura 14C di una tunica del Museo Egizio di Torino. In: Proceedings XIII Congresso Nazionale IGIIC—Lo Stato dell’Arte 13. Nardini Editore, Firenze, pp. 572–578

    Google Scholar 

  • Fluck C, Mälck K (2007) Radiocarbon analysed textiles in the Skulpturensammlug und Museum für Byzantinische Kunst, Berlin. In: De Moor A (ed) Methods of dating ancient textiles of the 1st millennium AD from Egypt and neighbouring countries. Lannoo, Tielt, pp. 150–166

    Google Scholar 

  • Gayet A (1897) L’Exploration des ruines d’Antinoë et la découverte d’un temple de Ramsès II enclos dan l’enceinte de la ville d’Hadrien. Leroux E (ed), Paris

  • Guidotti MC (2014) I tessuti copti. In: Ciatti M, Conti S (eds) Tessuti archeologici: i frammenti copti Roca-Puig dell’Abbazia di Montserrat. Edifir, Firenze, pp. 25–32

    Google Scholar 

  • Gulmini M, Idone A, Diana E, Gastaldi D, Vaudan D, Aceto M (2013) Identification of dyestuffs in historical textiles: strong and weak points of a non-invasive approach. Dyes Pigments 98:136–145. doi:10.1016/j.dyepig.2013.02.010

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Jurasekova Z, del Puerto E, Bruno G, Garcia-Ramos JV, Sanchez-Cortes S, Domingo C (2010) Extractionless non-hydrolysis surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopic detection of historical mordant dyes on textile fibers. J Raman Spectrosc 41:1455–1461. doi:10.1002/jrs.2651

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Karapanagiotis I, Mantzouris D, Kamaterou P, Lampakis D, Panayiotou C (2011) Identification of materials in post-Byzantine textiles from Mount Athos. J Archaeol Sci 38(12):3217–3223. doi:10.1016/j.jas.2011.06.022

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Lech K, Jarosz M (2011) Novel methodology for the extraction and identification of natural dyestuffs in historical textiles by HPLC–UV–Vis–ESI MS. Case study: chasubles from the Wawel Cathedral collection. Anal Bioanal Chem 399(9):3241–3251. doi:10.1007/s00216-010-4591-x

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Lucas A (1934) Ancient Egyptian materials and industries. E. Arnold & Co, London

  • Manhita A, Ferreira T, Candeias A, Barrocas Dias C (2011) Extracting natural dyes from wool—an evaluation of extraction methods. Anal Bioanal Chem 400:1501–1514. doi:10.1007/s00216-011-4858-x

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Mantzouris D, Karapanagiotis I, Panayiotou C (2014) Comparison of extraction methods for the analysis of Indigofera tinctoria and Carthamus tinctorius in textiles by high performance liquid chromatography. Microchem J 115:78–86. doi:10.1016/j.microc.2014.02.010

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Martiniani-Reber M (1991) Tissus Coptes, Vols. 1-2-3. Musée d’Art et d’Histoire, Geneve

  • Mérat A (2013) Étude technique et iconographique d’un ensemble de broderies égyptiennes antiques conservées au musée du Louvre. In: De Moor A, Fluck C, Linscheid P (eds) Drawing the treads together. Textiles and footwear of the 1st millenium AD from Egypt. Lannoo, Tielt, pp. 126–139

    Google Scholar 

  • Orska-Gawrys J, Surowiec I, Kehl J, Rejniak H, Urbaniak-Walczak K, Trojanowicz M (2003) Identification of natural dyes in archaeological Coptic textiles by liquid chromatography with diode array detection. J Chromatogr A 989:239–248. doi:10.1016/S0021-9673(03)00083-9

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Paets gen. Schieck A (2007) Radiocarbon dating on fine late antique and early Islamic tapestry weavings of Dionysian, Joseph and David-cycle design. In: De Moor A (ed) Methods of dating ancient textiles of the 1st millennium AD from Egypt and neighbouring countries. Lannoo, Tielt, pp. 167–177

    Google Scholar 

  • Peggie DA, Hulme AN, McNub H, Quye A (2008) Towards the identification of characteristic minor components from textiles dyed with weld (Reseda luteola L.) and those dyed with Mexican cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa). Microchim Acta 162:371–380. doi:10.1007/s00604-007-0866-0

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Petroviciu I, Albu F, Medvedovici A (2010) LC/MS and LC/MS/MS based protocol for identification of dyes in historic textiles. Microchem J 95:247–254. doi:10.1016/j.microc.2009.12.009

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pfister R (1935) Teinture et Alchimie Dans l’Orient Hellenistique. In: Seminarium Kondakovianum VII, Prague, pp 1–59

  • Pritchard F (2007) 14C dating of a group of wool tunics from Egypt given by W.M. Flinders Petrie to the Whitworth Art Gallery in 1897. In: De Moor A (ed) Methods of dating ancient textiles of the 1st millennium AD from Egypt and neighbouring countries. Lannoo, Tielt, pp. 178–188

    Google Scholar 

  • Rosenberg E (2008) Characterisation of historical organic dyestuffs by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry. Anal Bioanal Chem 391:33–57. doi:10.1007/s00216-008-1977-0

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Rutschowscaya M (1990) Tissus Coptes. Biro A (ed), Paris

  • Szostek B, Orska-Gawrys J, Surowiec I, Trojanowicz M (2003) Investigation of natural dyes occurring in historical Coptic textiles by high-performance liquid chromatography with UV–Vis and mass spectrometric detection. J Chromatogr A 1012:179–192. doi:10.1016/S0021-9673(03)01170-1

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Trojanowicz M, Orska-Gawrys J, Surowiec I, Szostek B, Urbaniak-Walczak K, Kehl J, Wróbel M (2004) Chromatographic investigation of dyes extracted from Coptic textiles from the National Museum in Warsaw. Stud Conserv 49(2):115–130

    Google Scholar 

  • Valianou L, Karapanagiotis I, Chryssoulakis Y (2009) Comparison of extraction methods for the analysis of natural dyes in historical textiles by high performance liquid chromatography. Anal Bioanal Chem 395:2175–2189. doi:10.1007/s00216-009-3137-6

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Van’t Hooft PPM, Vogelsang-Eastwood GM (1994) The early medieval Egyptian textiles. In: Van’t Hooft PPM, Raven MJ, Van Rooij EHC, Vogelsang-Eastwood GM (eds) Pharaonic and early medieval Egyptian textiles. Rijksmuseum van Oudheden, Leiden, pp. 137–142

    Google Scholar 

  • Verhecken A (2007) Relation between age and ayes in 1st millennium AD found in Egypt. In: De Moor A (ed) Methods of dating ancient textiles of the 1st millennium AD from Egypt and neighbouring countries. Lannoo, Tielt, pp. 206–213

    Google Scholar 

  • Wouters J (1985) High performance liquid chromatography of anthraquinones: analysis of plant and insect extracts and dyed textiles. Stud Conserv 30:119–128. doi:10.1179/sic.1985.30.3.119

    Google Scholar 

  • Wouters J (1993) Dye analysis of Coptic textiles. In: De Moor A (ed) Coptic textiles from Flemish private collections. Provinciaal Archeologisch Museum van Zuid-Oost Vlaanderen, Velzeke, pp. 53–64

    Google Scholar 

  • Wouters J (1994) Dye analysis in a broad perspective: a study of 3rd- to 10h-century Coptic textiles from Belgian private collections. Dyes History Archaeol 13:38–45

    Google Scholar 

  • Wouters J, Vanden Berghe I, Richard G, Breniaux R, Cardon D (2008) Dye analysis of selected textiles from three Roman sites in the Eastern desert of Egypt: a hypothesis on the dyeing technology in Roman and Coptic Egypt. Dyes History Archaeol 21:1–16

    Google Scholar 

  • Wouters J, Verhecken A (1989) The coccid insect dyes: HPLC and computerized diode-array analysis of dyed yarns. Stud Conserv 34:189–200. doi:10.1179/sic.1989.34.4.189

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgments

The authors are grateful to Dr. Egle Micheletto for supporting and encouraging multi-disciplinary projects focussed on the archaeological heritage of Piemonte (Italy). The authors also acknowledge Dr. Gabriella Pantò and the staff of the depository of the Museo di Antichità, as well as the staff of the Museo Egizio for kind assistance during the non-invasive survey. Special thanks to Prof. Claudio Baiocchi for providing access to the HPLC-DAD-MS equipment. The Università degli Studi di Torino (progetto finanziamento ricerca locale 2014–2015) is acknowledged for funding.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Dipartimento di Chimica, Università degli Studi di Torino, Via Giuria 5, 10125, Torino, Italy

    Monica Gulmini, A. Idone, P. Davit, M. Moi, M. Carrillo & C. Ricci

  2. Dipartimento di Biotecnologie Molecolari e Scienze per la Salute, Università degli Studi di Torino, Via Nizza 52, 10126, Torino, Italy

    F. Dal Bello

  3. Soprintendenza Archeologia, Belle Arti e Paesaggio per la città metropolitana di Torino, Piazza S. Giovanni 2, 10122, Torino, Italy

    M. Borla

  4. Oliva Restauri, Via Vanchiglia 15, 10124, Torino, Italy

    C. Oliva

  5. Museo Egizio, Via Accademia delle Scienze 6, 10123, Torino, Italy

    C. Greco

  6. Dipartimento di Scienze e Innovazione Tecnologica, Università del Piemonte Orientale, Viale Teresa Michel 11, 15121, Alessandria, Italy

    M. Aceto

  7. Centro Interdisciplinare per lo Studio e la Conservazione dei Beni Culturali (CenISCo), Università degli Studi del Piemonte Orientale, via Galileo Ferraris 116, 13100, Vercelli, Italy

    M. Aceto

Authors
  1. Monica Gulmini
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. A. Idone
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  3. P. Davit
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  4. M. Moi
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  5. M. Carrillo
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  6. C. Ricci
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  7. F. Dal Bello
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  8. M. Borla
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  9. C. Oliva
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  10. C. Greco
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  11. M. Aceto
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Monica Gulmini.

Electronic supplementary material

ESM 1

(DOCX 58 kb)

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this article

Gulmini, M., Idone, A., Davit, P. et al. The “Coptic” textiles of the “Museo Egizio” in Torino (Italy): a focus on dyes through a multi-technique approach. Archaeol Anthropol Sci 9, 485–497 (2017). https://doi.org/10.1007/s12520-016-0376-2

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s12520-016-0376-2

Keywords

Search

Navigation