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Runup uncertainty on planar beaches

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Abstract

Parameterization of wave runup is of paramount importance for an assessment of coastal hazards. Parametric models employ wave (e.g., Hs and Lp) and beach (i.e., β) parameters to estimate extreme runup (e.g., R2%). Thus, recent studies have been devoted to improving such parameterizations by including additional information regarding wave forcing or beach morphology features. However, the effects of intra-wave dynamics, related to the random nature of the wave transformation process, on runup statistics have not been incorporated. This work employs a phase- and depth- resolving model, based on the Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations, to investigate different sources of variability associated with runup on planar beaches. The numerical model is validated with laboratory runup data. Subsequently, the role of both aleatory uncertainty and other known sources of runup variability (i.e., frequency spreading and bed roughness) is investigated. Model results show that aleatory uncertainty can be more important than the contributions from other sources of variability such as the bed roughness and frequency spreading. Ensemble results are employed to develop a new parametric model which uses the Hunt (J Waterw Port Coastal Ocean Eng 85:123–152, 1959) scaling parameter \(\beta \left (H_{s}L_{p}\right )^{1/2}\).

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Acknowledgments

We acknowledge Gonzalo Uriel Martín Ruiz for technical support. The first author acknowledge Dr. Jantine Rutten for discussion on the assessment of relative runup variability. Two anonymous reviewers provided valuable comments that improved the manuscript.

Funding

We acknowledge ONR Global and CONACYT (CB-2016-284430 and LN 271544) for financial support. Additional financial support was provided by UNAM through PAPIIT DGAPA (PAPIIT IN101218) and the International Collaborative Project between Instituto de Ingenieria and the University of Delaware. J.C. Pintado-Patiño acknowledges the financial support provided by the Mexican National Council of Science and Technology (CoNACyT) under the graduate scholarship 490080.

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Correspondence to Alec Torres-Freyermuth.

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Responsible Editor: Alejandro Orfila

This article is part of the Topical Collection on the International Conference of Marine Science ICMS2018, the 3rd Latin American Symposium on Water Waves (LatWaves 2018), Medellin, Colombia, 19-23 November 2018 and the XVIII National Seminar on Marine Sciences and Technologies (SENALMAR), Barranquilla, Colombia 22-25 October 2019

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Torres-Freyermuth, A., Pintado-Patiño, J.C., Pedrozo-Acuña, A. et al. Runup uncertainty on planar beaches. Ocean Dynamics 69, 1359–1371 (2019). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-019-01305-y

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-019-01305-y

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