Abstract
Parameterization of wave runup is of paramount importance for an assessment of coastal hazards. Parametric models employ wave (e.g., Hs and Lp) and beach (i.e., β) parameters to estimate extreme runup (e.g., R2%). Thus, recent studies have been devoted to improving such parameterizations by including additional information regarding wave forcing or beach morphology features. However, the effects of intra-wave dynamics, related to the random nature of the wave transformation process, on runup statistics have not been incorporated. This work employs a phase- and depth- resolving model, based on the Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations, to investigate different sources of variability associated with runup on planar beaches. The numerical model is validated with laboratory runup data. Subsequently, the role of both aleatory uncertainty and other known sources of runup variability (i.e., frequency spreading and bed roughness) is investigated. Model results show that aleatory uncertainty can be more important than the contributions from other sources of variability such as the bed roughness and frequency spreading. Ensemble results are employed to develop a new parametric model which uses the Hunt (J Waterw Port Coastal Ocean Eng 85:123–152, 1959) scaling parameter \(\beta \left (H_{s}L_{p}\right )^{1/2}\).
Similar content being viewed by others
References
Apotsos A, Raubenheimer B, Elgar S, Guza RT (2008) Wave-driven setup and alongshore flows observed onshore of a submarine canyon. J Geophys Res 113(C07025)
Atkinson AL, Power HE, Moura T, Hammond T, Callaghan DP, Baldock TE (2017) Assessment of runup predictions by empirical models on non-truncated beaches on the south-east australian coast. Coast Eng 119:15–31. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.10.001. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S037838391630285X
Baldock T, Holmes P (1999) Simulation and prediction of swash oscillations on a steep beach. Coast Eng 36(3):219–242. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00011-3. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383999000113
Baldock TE (2006) Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach. Proc R Soc A 462:1853–1876
Baldock TE, Huntley DA (2002) Long wave forcing by the breaking of random gravity waves on a beach. Proc R Soc A 458:2177–2201
Baldock TE, Swan C, Taylor PH (1996) A laboratory study of non-linear surface waves on water. Phil Trans R Soc A 354:649–676
Baldock TE, Huntley DA, Bird PAD, O’Hare TJ, Bullock GN (2000) Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups. Coast Eng 39:213–242
Baldock TE, Perris D, Hogg AJ (2012) Overtopping of solitary waves and solitary bores on a plane beach. Proc R Soc A 468:3494–3516
Battjes JA (1974) Surf similarity. In: Proceedings of the 14th international conference on coastal eng, ASCE
Briganti R, Torres-Freyermuth A, Baldock TE, Brocchini M, Dodd N, Hsu T, Jiang Z, Kim Y, Pintado-Patio JC, Postacchini M (2016) Advances in numerical modelling of swash zone dynamics. Coast Eng 115:26–41. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.05.001
Brinkkemper JA, Torres-Freyermuth A, Mendoza ET, Ruessink BG (2013) Parameterization of wave run-up on beaches in Yucatan, Mexico: a numerical study. In: Coastal dynamics, pp 225–234
Desombre J, Morichon D, Mory M (2013) {RANS} v2f simulation of a swash event: detailed flow structure. Coast Eng 71:1–12. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.07.001. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383912001342
Didenkulova I, Didenkulov O, Pelinovsky E (2015) A note on the uncertainty in tsunami shape for estimation of its run-up heights. Journal of Ocean Engineering and Marine Energy 1(2):199–205. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40722-015-0017-3
Fiedler JW, Smit PB, Brodie KL, McNinch J, Guza R (2019) The offshore boundary condition in surf zone modeling. Coast Eng 143:12–20. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.10.014. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383918301984 http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383918301984
Fitzgerald CJ, Taylor PH, Orszaghova J, Borthwick AG, Whittaker C, Raby AC (2016) Irregular wave runup statistics on plane beaches: Application of a Boussinesq-type model incorporating a generating absorbing sponge layer and second-order wave generation. Coast Eng 114:309–324. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.04.019. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383916300667
Ge L, Cheung K (2011) Spectral sampling method for uncertainty propagation in long-wave runup modeling. J Hydraulic Eng 137:277–288
Guza RT, Feddersen F (2012) Effect of wave frequency and directional spread on shoreline runup. Geophys Res Lett 39(L11607). https://doi.org/10.1029/2012GL051959
Guza RT, Thornton EB (1982) Swash oscillations on a natural beach. J Geophys Res Oceans 87(C1):483–491. https://doi.org/10.1029/JC087iC01p00483
Hasselman K, Barnett T, Bonws E, Carlson H, Cartwright DC, Enke K, Ewing J, Gienapp H, Hasselmann DE, Kruseman P, Meerburg A, Muller P, Olbers DJ, Richter K, Sell W, Walden H (1973) Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the joint north sea wave project (jonswap). Tech. Rep. Tech. rep, Deutches Hydrographisches Institut
Hirt CW, Nichols BD (1990) Volume of fluid (VOF) method for dynamics of free boundaries. J Comput Phys 39:201–225
Holland KT, Raubenheimer B, Guza RT, Holman RA (1995) Runup kinematics on a natural beach. J Geophys Res Oceans 100(C3):4985–4993. https://doi.org/10.1029/94JC02664
Holman RA (1986) Extreme value statistics for wave run-up on a natural beach. Coast Eng 9(6):527–544
Sallenger AH (1985) Setup and swash on a natural beach. J Geophys Res Oceans 90(C1):945–953. https://doi.org/10.1029/JC090iC01p00945
Hsu TJ, Sakakiyama T, Liu PLF (2002) A numerical model for wave motions and turbulence flows in front of a composite breakwater. Coastal Eng 46:25–50
Hsu TJ, Elgar S, Guza RT (2006) Wave-induced sediment transport and onshore sandbar migration. Coastal Eng 53:817–824
Hughes MG, Aagaard T, Baldock TE, Power HE (2014) Spectral signatures for swash on reflective, intermediate and dissipative beaches. Marine Geology 355:88–97. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2014.05.015. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0025322714001492
Hunt IA (1959) Design of seawalls and breakwaters. J Waterw Port Coastal Ocean Eng 85:123–152
Janssen TT, Battjes JA, van Dongeren AR (2003) Long waves induced by short-wave groups over a sloping bottom. J Geophys Res 108(C8):3252. https://doi.org/10.1029/2002JC001515
Lara JL, Ruju A, Losada IJ (2011) Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes modelling of long waves induced by a transient wave group on a beach. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 467(2129): 1215–1242. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2010.0331. http://rspa.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/467/2129/1215
Lin P, Liu PLF (1998) A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone. J Fluid Mech 359:239–264
Longuet-Higgins MS, Stewart R (1960) Change in the form of short gravity waves on long waves and tidal currents. J Fluid Mech 8:565–583
Losada IJ, Lara JL, Guanche R, González-Ondina JM (2008) Numerical analysis of wave overtopping of high mound breakwaters. Coastal Eng 55:47–62. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.06.003
Madsen PA, Sorensen OR, Schaffer HA (1997) Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model: I. model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves. Coastal Eng 32:255–287
Medellin G, Brinkkemper JA, Torres-Freyermuth A, Appending CM, Mendoza ET, Salles P (2016) Run-up parameterization and beach vulnerability assesment on a barrier island: a downscaling approach. Nat Hazards Earth Syst Sci 16:167–180
van der Meer JW, Stam CM (1992) Wave runup on smooth and rock slopes of coastal structures. J Waterw Port Coastal Ocean Eng 118(5):534–550. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1992)118:5(534)
Palemón-Arcos L, Torres-Freyermuth A, Pedrozo-Acuña A, Salles P (2015) On the role of uncertainty for the study of wave-structure interaction. Coast Eng 106:32–41 . https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.09.005. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383915001532
Palmsten ML, Splinter KD (2016) Observations and simulations of wave runup during a laboratory dune erosion experiment. Coast Eng 115:58–66. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.01.007. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S037838391600017X, swash-zone Processes
Park H, Cox DT (2016) Empirical wave run-up formula for wave, storm surge and berm width. Coast Eng 115:67–78 . https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.10.006. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383915001830 http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383915001830, swash-zone processes
Pintado-Patiño JC, Torres-Freyermuth A, Puleo JA, Pokrajac D (2015) On the role of infiltration and exfiltration in swash zone boundary layer dynamics. J Geophys Res 120:6329–6350
Poate TG, McCall RT, Masselink G (2016) A new parameterisation for runup on gravel beaches. Coast Eng 117:176– 190. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.08.003. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383916301697
Ricchiuto M, Congaed PM, Delis AI (2014) Runup and uncertainty quantification: sensitivity analysis via anova decomposition. Tech. Rep. Res. Rep.RR-8530, INRIA
Rodi W (1993) Turbulence models and their application in hydraulics-a-state-of-the-art review. Int. Assoc. for Hydryaul. Res., Delft, Netherlands
Rodriguez-Rincon JP, Pedrozo-Acuña A, Breña-Naranjo JA (2015) Propagatin of hydro-meteorological uncertainty in a model cascade framework to inundation prediction. Hydrol Earth Syst Sci 19:2981–2998
Romano A, Bellotti G, Briganti R, Franco L (2015) Uncertainties in the physical modelling of the wave overtopping over a rubble mound breakwater: The role of the seeding number and of the test duration. Coast Eng 103:15–21. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.05.005. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383915000915 http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383915000915
Ruessink BG, Kleinhans MG, van den Beukel PGL (1998) Observations of swash under highly dissipative conditions. J Geophys Res Oceans 103(C2):3111–3118. https://doi.org/10.1029/97JC02791
Ruggiero P, Holman RA, Beach RA (2004) Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach. J Geophys Res Oceans 109(C6):n/a-?n/a. https://doi.org/10.1029/2003JC002160, c06025
Ruju A, Lara JL, Losada IJ (2014) Numerical analysis of run-up oscillations under dissipative conditions. Coast Eng 86:45–56. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2014.01.010. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383914000192
Sallenger AH (2000) Storm impact scale for barrier island. J Coast Res 16(3):890–895
Stockdon H, Thompson D, Plant N, Long J (2014) Evaluation of wave runup predictions from numerical and parametric models. Coast Eng 92:1–11. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2014.06.004 . http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383914001239 http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383914001239
Stockdon HF, Holman RA, Howd PA, Sallenger AH Jr (2006) Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup. Coast Eng 53(7):573–588. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.12.005. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383906000044 http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383906000044
Stockdon HF, Sallenger AH, Holman RA, Howd PA (2007) A simple model for the spatially-variable coastal response to hurricanes. Mar Geol 238(1):1–20. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2006.11.004. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0025322706003355 http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0025322706003355
Torres-Freyermuth A, Lara JL, Losada IJ (2010) Numerical modelling of short- and long-wave transformation on a barred beach. Coastal Eng 57(3):317–330. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.10.013
Torres-Freyermuth A, Puleo JA, Pokrajac D (2013) Modeling swash-zone hydrodynamics and shear stresses on planar slopes using Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations. J Geophys Res Oceans 118(2):1019–1033. https://doi.org/10.1002/jgrc.20074
Williams HE, Briganti R, Pullen T (2014) The role of offshore boundary conditions in the uncertainty of numerical prediction of wave overtopping using non-linear shallow water equations. Coast Eng 89:30–44. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2014.03.003 . http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383914000568 http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383914000568
Willmott CJ, Ackleson SG, Davis RE, Feddema JJ, Klink KM, Legates DR, O’Donnell J, Rowe CM (1985) Statistics for the evaluation and comparison of models. J Geophys Res Oceans 90(C5):8995–9005. https://doi.org/10.1029/JC090iC05p08995
Zhang Q, Liu PLF (2008) A numerical study of swash flows generated by bores. Coastal Eng 55(12):1113–1134. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.04.010
Zijlema M, Stelling G, Smit P (2011) Swash: an operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters. Coast Eng 58(10):992–1012 . https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.05.015. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383911000974
Acknowledgments
We acknowledge Gonzalo Uriel Martín Ruiz for technical support. The first author acknowledge Dr. Jantine Rutten for discussion on the assessment of relative runup variability. Two anonymous reviewers provided valuable comments that improved the manuscript.
Funding
We acknowledge ONR Global and CONACYT (CB-2016-284430 and LN 271544) for financial support. Additional financial support was provided by UNAM through PAPIIT DGAPA (PAPIIT IN101218) and the International Collaborative Project between Instituto de Ingenieria and the University of Delaware. J.C. Pintado-Patiño acknowledges the financial support provided by the Mexican National Council of Science and Technology (CoNACyT) under the graduate scholarship 490080.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Additional information
Responsible Editor: Alejandro Orfila
This article is part of the Topical Collection on the International Conference of Marine Science ICMS2018, the 3rd Latin American Symposium on Water Waves (LatWaves 2018), Medellin, Colombia, 19-23 November 2018 and the XVIII National Seminar on Marine Sciences and Technologies (SENALMAR), Barranquilla, Colombia 22-25 October 2019
Rights and permissions
About this article
Cite this article
Torres-Freyermuth, A., Pintado-Patiño, J.C., Pedrozo-Acuña, A. et al. Runup uncertainty on planar beaches. Ocean Dynamics 69, 1359–1371 (2019). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-019-01305-y
Received:
Accepted:
Published:
Issue Date:
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-019-01305-y