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Epidermale Alternsprozesse und Anti-Aging-Strategien

Epidermal aging and anti-aging strategies

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Zusammenfassung

Epitheliale Seneszenz ist ein komplexer Vorgang, der durch intrinsische und extrinsische (z. B. UV-/IR-Licht, Tabakrauch) Faktoren bedingt wird und im Kontext mit Alternsvorgängen insbesondere des Koriums und der Subkutis gesehen werden muss. Offensichtlich sind morphologische Veränderungen in Form von epithelialer Atrophie, Strukturänderungen der Basalmembran sowie Abnahme der Anzahl von Melanozyten und Langerhans-Zellen. Als Zeichen der zellulären Seneszenz gelten eine reduzierte proliferative Aktivität von Keratinozyten, eine Kumulation von keratinozytären Dysplasien, diverse Mutationen (z. B. c-Fos/c-Jun, STAT3, FoxO1) sowie multiple metabolische Aberrationen (z. B. Lipidmetabolismus, Bildung von „advanced glycation endproducts“, Aminosäurestoffwechsel). Daraus resultieren funktionelle Veränderungen, die insbesondere die physikalische (Lipiddefizit, Wasserverteilungsstörung, Mangel an hygroskopischen Substanzen), chemische (pH-Verhältnisse, Sauerstoffradikale) und immunologische Barriere betreffen. Zur Prophylaxe werden v. a. barriereprotektive Pflegepräparate, antioxidative Wirksubstanzen (z. B. Vitamin C, B3, E, Polyphenole, Flavonoide), Sonnenschutzmittel/-strategien bzw. Retinoide eingesetzt. Zur Korrektur von Veränderungen der gealterten Epidermis kommen chemische Peelingstrategien (z. B. Fruchtsäuren, β-Lipohydroxysäure, Trichloressigsäure, Phenolverbindungen) bzw. nichtablative [„intensed pulsed light“ (IPL), „pulsed dye laser“ (PDL), Nd:YAG] und ablative (CO2, Erbium-YAG) lichtgestützte Verfahren zum Einsatz.

Abstract

Epithelial senescence is a complex process depending on intrinsic as well as extrinsic factors (e.g., UV or IR light, tobacco smoke) and must be seen in the context of the aging process especially of the corium and the subcutis. Morphological alterations become apparent in the form of epithelial atrophy, structural changes within the basal membrane, and a decrease in cell count of melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Signs of cellular senescence are reduced proliferation of keratinocytes, cumulation of dysplastic keratinocytes, various mutations (e.g., c-Fos/c-Jun, STAT3, FoxO1), as well as multiple lipid or amino acid metabolic aberrations (e.g., production of advanced glycation endproducts). This causes functional changes within the physical (lipid deficiency, water distribution dysfunction, lack of hygroscopic substances), chemical (pH conditions, oxygen radicals), and immunological barrier. Prophylactically, barrier-protective care products, antioxidant substances (e.g., vitamin C, B3, E, polyphenols, flavonoids), sunscreen products/measurements, and retinoids are used. For correcting alterations in aged epidermis, chemical peelings (fruit acids, β-hydroxy acid, trichloroacetic acid, phenolic compounds), non-ablative (IPL, PDL, Nd:YAG) as well as ablative (CO2, Erbium-YAG) light-assisted methods are used.

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Universitätsklinik und Poliklinik für Dermatologie und Venerologie, Martin-Luther-Universität Halle-Wittenberg, Ernst-Grube-Straße 40, 06097, Halle (Saale), Deutschland

    J. Wohlrab, K. Hilpert & L. Wolff

  2. An-Institut für angewandte Dermatopharmazie, Martin-Luther-Universität Halle-Wittenberg, Halle (Saale), Deutschland

    J. Wohlrab

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J. Wohlrab gibt an, Honorare für Beratung und/oder Vorträge und/oder Sponsoring für wissenschaftliche Projekte und/oder klinische Studien von folgenden Firmen erhalten zu haben: Abbott, Abbvie, Agfa, Aicuris, Allergika, Almirall, Amgene, Astellas, Biogen-Idec, Bombastus, Dermapharm, Ei, Evolva, Evonik, Galderma, Grünenthal, GSK, Janssen-Cilag, Jenapharm, Leo, L’Oréal, Mavena, Mibe, MSD, Novaliq, Novartis, Pfizer, Reddys, Riemser, Skinomics, Widmer, Wolff. K. Hilpert und L. Wolff geben an, dass kein Interessenkonflikt besteht.

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Wohlrab, J., Hilpert, K. & Wolff, L. Epidermale Alternsprozesse und Anti-Aging-Strategien. Hautarzt 67, 107–111 (2016). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00105-015-3734-6

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