The mechanism and stability of thermal transitions in hair keratin

Abstract

Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) has been applied to study the interactions between components of human hair keratin. Keratin is a biopolymeric composite made of several proteins forming basically two phases: amorphous matrix and crystalline microfibrillar phase. Water, the content of which depends on atmospheric humidity, is also an integral part of keratin structure. The following processes are apparent from the DSC: removal of loosely bound water (ca. 70°C), a transition in the amorphous phase (155°C) and melting/denaturation of the α-crystalline phase (233°C). The process occurring in keratin at ca. 155°C has an opposite character to a glass transition; we refer to this process as the toughening transition. The area of the α-keratin peak increases significantly upon annealing at temperatures from 80°C to 150°C and decreases for higher annealing temperatures. Water affects both the crystalline and amorphous phases of keratin. The process similar in nature to annealing — induced recrystallization in synthetic polymers is strictly correlated with removal of strongly bound fraction of water in keratin.