Abstract
Sustainable luxury presents as a meeting point for traditions, cultures, values and needs. It offers an opportunity to rescue and expand the cultural heritage of communities, enhancing their history to share it with the world. Craftsmanship is at the heart of sustainable luxury because artisans are the ones who add value to objects. The Vicuña Poncho produced at Laguna Blanca, Catamarca, is an object with a deep symbolic character which is representative of such community. Artisans show their sense of belonging, unity and values in this garment. As they continue with these practices, they can teach the most exquisite technique and reflect the ancient knowledge of their ancestors—the indigenous communities of the region. Meanwhile, they create a top-quality finished product that can be framed into sustainable luxury. The following chapter deals with sustainable luxury, craftsmanship and handcrafted quality. The chapter introduces some concepts that offer a theoretical framework to subsequently delve into the Vicuña Poncho universe. It offers a description of both this object, highlighting its historic and current symbology, and the ancient aboriginal practices still used by artisans, to conclude with thoughts about the importance of sustainable luxury and the appreciation of the Vicuña Poncho to empower artisans and expand their horizons.
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Notes
- 1.
Chaku: a rounding up, a way to hunt wild animals.
- 2.
The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) was established in 1973 in response to the growing concerns about the overexploitation of wildlife through international trade, which threatens the survival of many animal and plant species all over the world. CITES has been ratified by 180 countries. The main purpose of the Convention is to ensure that international trade does not threaten the survival of natural species. To this end, CITES regulates international wildlife trade through a system of permits and certificates. Source: Cherny-Scalon [2]. Visit: https://www.cites.org/esp/disc/what.php.
- 3.
UNESCO is the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation. UNESCO seeks to build peace through international co-operation in Education, the Sciences and Culture. UNESCO’s programmes contribute to the achievement of the Sustainable Development Goals defined in Agenda 2030, adopted by the UN General Assembly in 2015. Source: Official Website https://es.unesco.org/about-us/introducing-unesco.
- 4.
The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) is a Membership Union uniquely composed of sovereign states and both government and civil society organisations. The IUCN provides public, private and non-governmental organisations with the knowledge and tools that enable human progress, economic development and nature conservation to take place together. Source: Official Website https://www.iucn.org/es/acerca-de-la-uicn.
- 5.
The Instituto Nacional de Tecnología Agropecuaria (INTA) [National Agricultural Technology Institute] is a national agency engaged in the sustainable development of the agricultural, agri-food, and agro-industrial sector through research, extension, innovation and transfer of knowledge in Argentina.
- 6.
Conversations between Ramón Gutiérrez and Roxana Amarilla, July 2019.
- 7.
As explained by different Andean artisans, corpachada is a sacred practice among Andean communities which involve feeding or offering food to Mother Earth.
- 8.
Propitiatory rites are the practices related to religious observance intended to beg or calm down supernatural beings. Source: Diccionario de Ciencias Sociales y Políticas, Torcuato Di Tella, EMECE, 2001.
- 9.
Ibid 6.
- 10.
To remove the bristles means to clean camelid fleece, removing coarse hair so that it becomes softer to touch. Explanation given by different Andean artisans.
- 11.
Ibid 6.
- 12.
Comadre refers to a neighbour and friend with whom a woman has a closer, trusted relationship than with other women. Source: Diccionario de la Lengua Española, Real Academia Española.
- 13.
During the colonial era, the regional trading currency [Monedas de la Tierra] was used in areas of Paraguay and the River Plate that were far away from the larger centres. Objects used as currency varied depending on the place. Source: “La implantación de la moneda en América,” Torres, Julio, p. 117.
- 14.
Ibid 6.
- 15.
As explained by some artisans, ojo de perdiz [bird’s eye] refers to a textile design typical of the Andean region.
- 16.
Fiesta Nacional e Internacional del Poncho is an annual meeting and celebration held in the province of Catamarca since 1967 that gathers traditional textile artisans and other regional crafts.
- 17.
According to different artisans, rapacejo or mallado refers to lace weaving and textile finishes.
- 18.
Celestina Stramigioli’s speech at Fiesta Nacional e Internacional del Poncho the award ceremony in 2013.
- 19.
Ibid 6.
- 20.
Mercado Nacional de Artesanías de Argentina (MATRA) [Market of Argentine Traditional Handicrafts] is the National Secretariat of Culture’s handicrafts programme which, among other missions, works to connect artisans to the international handicrafts fair market.
- 21.
International Folk Art Market (IFAM) is an annual traditional artisans’ fair which also has an empowerment and incentive programme for artists worldwide.
- 22.
As explained by the locals, lagucho refers to the people and objects from Laguna Blanca.
- 23.
Source: Official Website, Ambiente y Desarrollo Sustentable [Sustainable Environment and Development]. http://www.ambiente.catamarca.gov.ar. Accessed: July, 28.
- 24.
Source: Official Website, http://www.artesanias.catamarca.gob.ar Accessed: July, 28.
- 25.
Source: Cultural Promotion Website, https://ilam.org/index.php/es/museo?id=6242. Accessed: July, 27.
- 26.
Source: Official Website, https://inta.gob.ar. Accessed: July, 27.
- 27.
Source: Programme’s Facebook page “MATRA-Mercado Nacional de Artesanías Tradicionales de la Argentina.” Accessed: 26 July, 2019.
- 28.
Source: Official Website, http://www.textilescusco.org. Accessed: 29 July, 2019.
- 29.
Source: Official Website, https://folkartmarket.org. Accessed: 27 July, 2019.
- 30.
Other initiatives supporting the Co-operative:
Universidad Nacional de Catamarca (UNCA) [National University of Catamarca], which is committed to the culture and identity of Catamarca—and its promotion—through education, research and outreach. The institution revalues the tangible social and cultural heritage, further networking with the public and private social and production sectors. Source: Official Website, http://www.unca.edu.ar. Accessed: 29 July, 2019.
Along this line, the purpose of the Instituto Interdisciplinario Puneño—Universidad Nacional de Catamarca (InIP-UNCa) [Interdisciplinary Institute of the Puna - National University of Catamarca] is to develop, foster and promote scientific research of the Puna region; support the training of researchers; and direct the interrelation between research, education, university outreach and both regional and local development. Source: Official Website, lagunablanca.unca.edu.ar. Accessed: 27 July, 2019.
There is also, Becar, a National Secretariat of Culture international grant programme developed on the basis of Co-operation for Artistic Education, Research and Creation. It supports international mobility for artists and cultural professionals to carry out artistic projects abroad. Source: Official Website, https://becar.cultura.gob.ar. Accessed: 27 July, 2019.
Finally, until December 2011, the Co-operative was supported by the Proyecto de Desarrollo Rural del Noroeste Argentino (PRODERNOA) [Argentine North Western Rural Development Project], a project to invest in rural production and service activities that leveraged the resources available to male and female small farmers from vulnerable groups. Source: Official Website, https://www.ucar.gob.ar/index.php/prodernoa. Accessed: 28 July, 2019.
- 31.
For more information, please visit: https://www.un.org/en/events/indigenousday/. Accessed: 8 May, 2019.
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Amarilla, R., Gardetti, M.Á., Gabriel, M. (2020). Sustainable Luxury, Craftsmanship and Vicuna Poncho. In: Gardetti, M., Coste-Manière, I. (eds) Sustainable Luxury and Craftsmanship. Environmental Footprints and Eco-design of Products and Processes. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-15-3769-1_2
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