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Bioactivity and application of anthocyanins in skin protection and cosmetics: an extension as a functional pigment

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Abstract

The skin undertakes a safeguard against external dangers, sensations, and symbols of beauty and health, and different cosmetics provide targeted solutions to various skin problems. However, synthetic pigment and chemical components in cosmetics can harm sensitive skin, resulting in further damage to the skin. Anthocyanins are natural pigments that possess vivid colors, excellent bioactivity, and the absence of toxicity. Therefore, anthocyanins have garnered considerable interest owing to their potential applications in cosmetics for dermatological conditions and aesthetic purposes. This review aims to comprehensively summarize studies and advancements in the use of anthocyanins in cosmetics and their potential future directions. These findings confirmed the bioactivity of anthocyanins against photodamage and melanogenesis and revealed the underlying mechanism. Additionally, anthocyanins were found to have great potential as one colorant, but their use is limited by their low lipophilicity and susceptibility to high temperature and variations in pH. Future research should prioritize anthocyanin stabilization, pyranoanthocyanin use, and investigation of the effects of anthocyanins on the gut-skin axis. This review advances our understanding of the application of anthocyanins as functional pigments in cosmetics and provides a scientific basis for the potential use of anthocyanins to improve skin function.

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Abbreviations

4-HNE:

4-Hydroxynonenal

AD:

Atopic dermatitis

C3G:

Cyanidin-3-O-glucoside

cAMP:

Cyclic adenosine 3′5′-monophosphate

COX-2:

Cyclooxygenase-2

CREB:

CAMP-responsive element binding protein

ECM:

Extracellular matrix

ERK:

Serine/threonine protein kinase

H2O2 :

Hydrogen peroxide

HDFs:

Human dermal fibroblasts

MC1R:

Melanocortin 1 receptor

MDA:

Malondialdehyde

MITF:

Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor

MMPs:

Matrix metalloproteases

Pg:

Pelargonidin

PGE2:

Prostaglandin E2

ROS:

Reactive oxygen species

S. aureus :

Staphylococcus aureus

SPF:

Solar protection factor

TNF-α:

Tumor necrosis factor α

TRP:

Tyrosine-related proteins

UV:

Ultraviolet

α-MSH:

α-Melanocyte-stimulating hormone

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Acknowledgements

We thank the members of the Institute of Food Safety and Nutrition, Jinan University for discussion on the topics covered in this review. This work was supported by the Guangdong Key Area Research and Development Program (NO. 2022B0202040001), the National Natural Science Foundation of China (NO. 32172220) and the Youth Science and Technology Innovation Talent of Guangdong TeZhi Plan (2019TQ05N770). The authors also thank the Science and Technology Program of Guangzhou (NO. 202206010121), the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities (NO. 21622108), and the BYHEALTH Nutrition and Health Research Foundation (No. FP202201048). We also thank Bullet Edits Limited for the linguistic editing and proofreading of the manuscript.

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  1. Xusheng Li and Chuqi Liu have contributed equally to this work.

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  1. Department of Food Science and Engineering, Institute of Food Safety and Nutrition, Jinan University, 601 Huangpu Rd, Guangzhou, 510632, People’s Republic of China

    Xusheng Li, Chuqi Liu, Yawen Li, Kailan Yuan, Wenbao Zhang, Dongbao Cai, Ziyao Peng & Weibin Bai

  2. Department of Dermatology, The First Affiliated Hospital of Jinan University, Jinan University, Guangzhou, 510630, People’s Republic of China

    Yunfeng Hu

  3. School of Chemical Engineering and Light Industry, Guangdong University of Technology, Guangzhou, 510006, People’s Republic of China

    Jianxia Sun

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Li, X., Liu, C., Li, Y. et al. Bioactivity and application of anthocyanins in skin protection and cosmetics: an extension as a functional pigment. Phytochem Rev 22, 1441–1467 (2023). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11101-023-09890-z

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