Dynamic Eccentric-Concentric Strength Training of the Finger Flexors to Improve Rock Climbing Performance

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to investigate whether an additional dynamic eccentric-concentric strength training of the finger flexors may improve the performance of rock climbers. A device was developed and constructed to train the finger flexors in a dynamic eccentric and concentric fashion and was distributed along with a specific exercise plan to rock climbers. Forty five male and I female rock climbers participated in the retrospective study and answered a questionnaire concerning their training time, climbing performance (grade) and subjective strength increase. The duration of the training averaged 19 months (SD 16, range 1–60) with 40 minutes per week (SD 38, range 5–210) and constituted 15% of the whole training (range 5–100). The difficulty of climbing redpoint style (known route) improved significantly on average from 12.1 to 14.4 (numeric scale of increasing difficulty 1–24, in relation to the French scale grade 3–9a), on sight style (unknown route) from 9.5 to 11.4 and boulder (short routes) from 8.7 to 11.8. In comparison, improvement of climbing performance during the 12 months before the start of the dynamic training was significantly less averaging redpoint 11.6 to 12.1, on sight 9.3 to 9.5 and boulder 7.9 to 8.7. Increase of maximal strength was subjectively rated to be 21%, increase of endurance strength 20% and improvement of over all climbing performance 15%. Dynamic eccentric — concentric strength training of the finger flexors in rock climbers may improve strength, endurance and climbing performance (grade of difficulty) and may be of value in addition to the static strength training.