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Handbook of diet, nutrition and the skin pp 114–127Cite as

Vitamin C, gene expression and skin health

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Part of the book series: Human Health Handbooks no. 1 ((HHH,volume 2))

Abstract

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is an essential micronutrient, required for multiple biological functions. In this chapter, we review in vitro and in vivo evidence that vitamin C plays an important role in skin biology, contributing to the formation of efficient skin barrier and to fibroblast proliferation/ migration during wound healing. Vitamin C is also widely used in cosmetic and dermatological products since it is reported to have a number of beneficial effects on the skin. As an antioxidant it can scavenge deleterious free radicals and other oxidizing species that contribute to the process of skin aging. By stimulating collagen synthesis it improves the elasticity of the skin, thereby reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Furthermore, its ability to suppress skin pigmentation makes it a useful whitening agent. Ascorbic acid is, however, an unstable compound in aqueous solution, and several water- and lipid-soluble derivatives were synthesized to improve stability and increase skin penetration. The effectiveness of different ascorbic acid derivatives that are currently employed in dermatological preparations and cosmetics, in particular magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate and ascorbyl palmitate, is discussed. Finally, we compare the efficacy of different routes of administration of vitamin C, alone or in combination with other antioxidants, with a focus on newly developed topical delivery systems.

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Abbreviations

DDR2:

Discoidin domain receptor 2

HIF-1:

Hypoxia-inducible factor 1

LUV:

Large unilamellar vesicle

MLV:

Multilamellar vesicle

NLC:

Nanostructured lipid carrier

OLV:

Oligolamellar vesicle

ROS:

Reactive oxygen species

SLN:

Solid lipid nanoparticle

SUV:

Small unilamellar vesicle

UV:

Ultraviolet

UVA:

Ultraviolet A

UVB:

Ultraviolet B

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Acknowledgements

TLD is grateful to the ‘Ciência Programme’, supported by POPH - QREN - Tipologia 4.2 - Promoção do Emprego Científico, by ‘Fundo Social Europeu’ and by national funds from MCTES, Portugal.

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Instituto de Biologia Molecular e Celular, Iron and Innate Immunity Group, Rua do Campo Alegre, 823, 4150-180, Porto, Portugal

    T. L. Duarte

  2. Departamento de Ciências do Medicamento, Laboratório de Tecnologia Farmacêutica, Faculdade de Farmácia da Universidade do Porto, Rua Aníbal Cunha 164, 4099-030, Porto, Portugal

    I. F. Almeida

Authors
  1. T. L. Duarte
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  2. I. F. Almeida
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Correspondence to T. L. Duarte .

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Victor R. Preedy

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© 2012 Wageningen Academic Publishers

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Duarte, T.L., Almeida, I.F. (2012). Vitamin C, gene expression and skin health. In: Preedy, V.R. (eds) Handbook of diet, nutrition and the skin. Human Health Handbooks no. 1, vol 2. Wageningen Academic Publishers. https://doi.org/10.3920/978-90-8686-729-5_7

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