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Haute Couture and National Textiles

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Patriots Against Fashion
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Abstract

National fashionism declined as Europe’s industrial economies diversified in the late nineteenth century, but re-emerged in a new guise during the early twentieth century. The First World War witnessed a general surge in European nationalism, sartorial and otherwise, which continued in the interwar period. Yet the new incarnation of national fashionism arose more from a dramatic transformation of the fashion industries. Emphasis shifted from craftsmanship to mass production, from patriotic consumers to national entrepreneurs.

Without women, no new fashions would be possible, and not just new fashions, fashion itself would be impossible.

Modní noviny (1917).1

Four or five years ago, … dress seemed infinitely far from art, and we had accepted the idea that the gap that lies between them would never be bridged. We were wrong.

— Henry van der Velde (1900).2

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Notes

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© 2014 Alexander Maxwell

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Maxwell, A. (2014). Haute Couture and National Textiles. In: Patriots Against Fashion. Palgrave Macmillan, London. https://doi.org/10.1057/9781137277145_11

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