Abstract
Mass communication has long functioned as a forceful and effectual device in the African American quest for dominion over themselves, their ideas, and their future existence in the United States. Particularly, blacks associated with the media as writers and journalists of all sorts worked to further these ideals and triggered a great deal of progress in this very respect. David Walker called for the immediate end of slavery and the use of necessary violence in his Appeal to the Coloured Citizens of the World. Frederick Douglass openly challenged racist federal and local laws and, as a survivor, exposed the ugly nature of involuntary drudgery in his North Star and Frederick Douglass’ Paper. Ida B. Wells fiercely called attention to the common horrors of lynching throughout the United States and even suggested in her Memphis Free Speech and other papers for which she wrote that white women were the instigators in romantic liaisons with black men rather than the victims of such, as was often used erroneously as justification for the brutal murders of countless men of color throughout the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Surely these and other publications profoundly and positively affected the cause of black liberation.
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Notes
Ean Wood, The Josephine Baker Story (London: Sanctuary Publishing Limited, 2000), 249–50.
Ibid.
Ayana D. Byrd and Lori L. Tharps, Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America (New York: St. Martin’s Press, 2001), 19–20.
Tracy Owens Patton, “Hey Girl, Am I More than My Hair?: African American Women and Their Struggles with Beauty, Body Image, and Hair,” NWSA Journal 18, no. 2 (Summer 2006): 24.
Byrd and Tharps, 22. The one-drop racial classification denoted that a person with any traceable amount of black blood (from successive ancestral lines) would be deemed a Negro.
Ibid.
See A’lelia Perry Bundles, On Her Own Ground: The Life and Times of Madam C. J. Walker (New York: Washington Square Press, 2001) 67–68, 196, 268–69; Patton, 28–29; and Byrd and Tharps, 30–36, 76–85.
Byrd and Tharps, 26.
Maxine Leeds Craig, Ain’t I A Beauty Queen Black Women, Beauty, and the Politics of Race (New York: Oxford University Press, 2002), 5.
“Since Grant Took Richmond,” Our World, November 1947, 11.
Ibid.
Ed Branford, “What Is Negro Beauty?” Our World, November 1947, 33.
W. E. B. Du Bois, The Souls of Black Folk (New York: Library of America, 1990), 8.
“Kombo Advertisement,” Our World, November 1950, inside cover.
Ibid.
“10 Most Beautiful Negro Women,” Our World, November 1950, 16.
Ibid.
Ibid.
Ibid.
Ibid.
“America’s 100 Most Beautiful Negro Women,” Color, November 1949, 13.
Audrey Elisa Kerr, The Paper Bag Principle: Class, Complexion, and Community in Black Washington, D.C. (Knoxville: University of Tennessee, 2006), 30. In some African American circles, the “paper bag” test was used to determine entry into social organizations. The color of the bag often represented the darkest of the complexions allowed into such groups.
“Dorthea Towels: Paris’s Fabulous Negro Model,” Our World, August 1952, 44.
Ibid.
Ibid.
“Miss Bronze Los Angeles,” Our World, August 1952, 25.
“Howard U Co-ed Silvia Blackburn,” Our World, August 1953, 9.
Ibid.
This research has not produced a single written instance in popular black lifestyle magazines of this era, 1940–1955, where black, dark, ebony or similar terminology was used in the same vein.
“Eastern Human Hair Advertisement,” Our World, November 1947, 4.
“Straiteen Advertisement,” Our World, July 1949, 57.
Ibid.
Ibid.
“Nadinola Advertisement,” Our World, September 1953, 47.
Ibid.
Ibid.
Susannah Walker, Style and Status: Selling Beauty to African American Women, 1920–1975 (Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 2007), 24.
Our World, September 1953, 30.
Ibid.
“The Girl Friends Have A Ball,” Our World, September 1953, 42.
Ibid., 44.
Ibid.
Ibid.
“The Merry Moles,” Our World, August 1953, 50.
Ibid., 53.
Ibid., 50.
Ibid., 53.
Ibid.
“The Beauty Who Doesn’t Want to be Queen?” Ebony, July 1960, 111.
“Glamorous First Ladies,” Ebony, July 1962, 21.
“Nadinola Advertisement,” Ebony, August 1965, 19.
Byrd and Tharps, 51.
Clayborne Carson et al, ed. The Eyes on the Prize Civil Rights Reader: Documents, Speeches and Firsthand Accounts from the Black Freedom Struggle (New York: Penguin Books, 1991), 460.
Ibid., 461.
Ibid., 461–62.
In 1968 Jonathan Blount, Ed Lewis, Clarence O. Smith, Cecil Hollingsworth, and Phillip Janniere (who left the group early) attended a meeting on promoting black businesses sponsored by Shearson & Hammill & Company, an investment corporation. The company would back a profitable venture. Jonathan Blount remembered that his mother and/or godmother had complained about the lack of a women’s lifestyle magazine geared toward black women. Pat Hollingsworth conducted early focus groups to ascertain black women’s interests and Bernadette Carey served as an early editor (prior to the first published issue) to plant the seed of what was to become Essence. Though a mostly male-sponsored business venture, women typically directed the magazine’s content. See Audrey Edwards, “The Essence of Sweet Success,” Black Enterprise (June 1980): 134–38
Jennifer Bailey Woodard and Teresa Mastin, “Black Womanhood: ‘Essence’ and Its Treatment of Stereotypical Images of Black Women,” Journal of Black Studies, 36 no. 2 (November 2005): 264–81
And Susan L. Taylor, “In the Beginning,” in Essence: 25 Years Celebrating Black Women, ed. Patricia Mignon Hinds (New York: Harry N. Abrams, Incorporated, 1995), 23–55.
Patton, 41.
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© 2014 Tamara Lizette Brown and Baruti N. Kopano
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Brown, K. (2014). In the Eye of the Beholder: Definitions of Beauty in Popular Black Magazines. In: Brown, T.L., Kopano, B.N. (eds) Soul Thieves. Contemporary Black History. Palgrave Macmillan, New York. https://doi.org/10.1057/9781137071392_6
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