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Bobby Shafto’s Shirt and Britches: Contracted Clothing and the Transformation of the Trade

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Dress, Culture and Commerce
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Abstract

Thousands of Bobby Shaftos left for sea over the long eighteenth century. They travelled in merchant brigs to the Caribbean, manned naval vessels in a continuing circuit of wars and manoeuvres, staffed the ships and outposts of merchant companies from the fur-rich territories of Hudson Bay to tropical forts on the Gulf of Bengal. Their lives at sea and the fate of these ventures are well known for the most part. Less familiar is the history of one of the major supply industries on which the crews depended, the clothing trade. The expansion of the military is the starting point for this study.

Bobby Shafto’s gone to sea, Silver buckle on his kneel

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Notes

  1. John Brewer, The Sinews of Power: War, Money and the English State, 1688–1783 (1989) p. xv.

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  2. N.A.M. Rodger, The Wooden World: An Anatomy of the Georgian Navy (1986) p. 64

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  3. Phillis Cunnington and Catherine Lucas, Occupational Costume in England (1967) pp. 56–60.

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  4. S.P.Dom. quoted in M. Oppenheim, A History of the Administration of the Royal Navy… From 1509 to 1660 (1895 reprinted in 1988 ) p. 329.

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  5. J.B. Hattendorf, RJ.B. Knight, A.W.H. Pearsall, N.A.M. Rodger and Geoffrey Till (eds), British Naval Documents, 1204–1960 (1993) p. 515; Ehrman, p. 122.

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  6. Daniel Defoe, The Complete English Tradesman (2nd edn 1727, reprinted 1969) p. 309.

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  7. See David Corner, ‘The Tyranny of Fashion: The Case of the Felt Hatting Trade in the Late Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries’ Fabrics and Fashions: Studies in the Economic and Social History of Dress N.B. Harte (ed.) (1991).

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© 1997 Beverly Lemire

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Lemire, B. (1997). Bobby Shafto’s Shirt and Britches: Contracted Clothing and the Transformation of the Trade. In: Dress, Culture and Commerce. Palgrave Macmillan, London. https://doi.org/10.1057/9780230372757_2

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1057/9780230372757_2

  • Publisher Name: Palgrave Macmillan, London

  • Print ISBN: 978-1-349-39668-9

  • Online ISBN: 978-0-230-37275-7

  • eBook Packages: Palgrave History CollectionHistory (R0)

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