Abstract
This chapter discusses the feminization of consumption, the role of publicity, and conceptions of fashion in the 1830s and 40s, seen mainly through two sets of sources: fashion magazines the Petit Courrier des dames (1821–1865), Les Modes parisiennes (1843–1880), and Le Moniteur de la mode (1843–1919), and the collection of Delphine de Girardin’s “A Letter from Paris” newspaper columns, Lettres parisiennes (1836–1848). Fashion magazines, and fashion in general, of this period have received limited scholarly attention, and the relationship between fashion magazines and consumer culture remains relatively unexplored.1 This chapter emphasizes the commercial context of fashion magazines, highlighting the importance of publicity and advertising in the magazines. It argues that articles on shops, fashion houses and advertising, which initially formed a minor content of the magazines, became the dominant content by the mid-1840s. It also argues that while the high society—élégantes or mondaines—remained an important source of fashion trends, fabric manufacturers, fashion houses, shops, and dressmakers, aiming at the middle class, exerted a powerful influence on fashion.
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Notes
See Annemarie Kleinert, Le “Journal des Dames et des Modes,” ou la conquête de l’Europe feminine (1797–1839) (Stuttgart: Jan Thorbecke, 2001)
Annemarie Kleinert, Die frûhen Modejournale in Frankreich: Studien zur Literatur d. Mode von d. Anfängen bis 1848 (Berlin: E. Schmidt, 1980).
Sima Godfrey, “Haute Couture and Haute Culture” in Denis Hollier ed., A New History of French Literature (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1989), 761–769.
To cite a couple of early-modern examples, the exotic tulip became the unrivaled flower of fashion by the 1620s, leading to the extraordinary Dutch speculation fever especially for the rarer types in the 1630s. Simon Schama, The Embarrassment of Riches: An Interpretation of Dutch Culture in the Golden Age (New York: Vintage, 1997), 350–366.
A. C. Zeven and W. A. Brandenburg, “Use of Paintings from the 16th to 19th Centuries to Study the History of Domesticated Plants,” Economic Botany 40:4 (Oct.–Dec. 1986) 397–408
Ghillean Prance and Mark Nesbitt eds., The Cultural History of Plants (New York: Routledge, 2005), 71.
See Jennifer Jones, Sexing la Mode; Caroline Weber, Queen of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution (New York: H. Holt, 2006).
Daniel Roche, The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the Ancien Régime, trans. Jean Birrell (New York: Cambridge University Press, 1994).
Clare Haru Crowston, Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France (Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2001), 70.
Henri Vathelet, La Publicité dans le journalisme, Thèse de doctorat, Université de Paris, Faculté de droit (Paris: Albin Michel, 1911), 66.
Germain Sarrut and Saint-Edme eds., Paris pittoresque (Paris: 45 Rue de la Harpe, 1842) v.1, 405.
Valerie Steele, Paris Fashion: A Cultural History (Oxford: Berg, 1998), 75.
Vyvyan Holland, Hand Coloured Fashion Plates 1770–1899 (London: Batsford, 1988), 93.
Raymond Gaudriault, Gravures de mode feminine (Paris: Les Editions de l’Amateur, 1983).
For a satire of an aristocratic femme à la mode see Madame Ancelot, “A Leader of Fashion” in Pictures of the French: A Series of Literary and Graphic Delineations of French Character by Jules Janin, Balzac, Cormenin, and other Celebrated French Authors (London: Orr and Co., 1840): 65–72.
Jordana Pomeroy, An Imperial Collection: Women Artists from the State Hermitage Museum (London: Merrell, 2003).
Steven Kale, French Salons: High Society and Political Sociability from the Old Regime to the Revolution of 1848 (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2005), 234.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.1, Aug. 25, 1837: 230.
Alison Finch, Women’s Writing in Nineteenth-Century France (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000), 131.
Martin-Fugier, preface, Girardin, Lettres parisiennes, v; Madeline Lassère, Delphine de Girardin: journaliste et femme de lettres au temps du romantisme (Paris: Perrin, 2003), 171.
On Girardin also see Claudine Giacchetti, Delphine de Girardin, la muse de juillet (Paris: L’Harmattan, 2004)
Whitney Walton, Eve’s Proud Descendants: Four Women Writers and Republican Politics in Nineteenth-Century France (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 2000).
Martin-Fugier, “Preface,” Lettres parisiennes, v; Lenard R. Berlanstein, “Historicizing and Gendering Celebrity Culture: Famous Women in Nineteenth-Century France,” Journal of Women’s History 16:4 (Dec. 2004), 69.
Catherine Nesci, Le Flâneur et les flâneuses. Les femmes et la ville à l’époque romantique (Grenoble: ELLUG, 2007), 227.
Dorothy Kelly, “Delphine Gay de Girardin (1804–1855)” in Eva Martin Sartori and Dorothy Wynne Zimmerman eds., French Women Writers: A Bio-Bibliographical Source Book (New York: Greenwood Press, 1991), 193–197: 194.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.1, Sept. 28, 1836: 9.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.1, Sept. 28, 1836: 9.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.1, Oct. 19, 1836: 16.
Annemarie Kleinert, “Balzac et la presse de son temps. Ses oeuvres et son activité vues par le ‘Journal des Dames et des Modes,’” L’Année balzacienne nouvelle série 9 (1988), 366–393.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.2, Nov. 9, 1844: 335.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.1, Nov. 9, 1836: 26.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.1, June 21, 1837: 165.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.1, Jan. 11, 1837: 71.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.1, Apr. 27, 1839: 452.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.1, Aug. 10, 1839: 503.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.2, Mar. 9, 1844: 252.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.2, Mar. 9, 1844: 252.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.1, Jan. 22, 1840: 597.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.2, Apr. 11, 1847: 465–470.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.1, Oct. 19, 1836: 21.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.1, Sept. 21, 1839: 534
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.2, Apr. 20, 1844: 240.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.1, Jan. 4, 1840: 582–583.
Girardin, Lettres parisiennes v.1, May 3, 1839: 455.
Victoria Thompson, The Virtuous Marketplace: Women and Men, Money and Politics in Paris, 1830–1870 (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2000), 10.
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© 2009 H. Hazel Hahn
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Hahn, H.H. (2009). Fashion Discourses in Fashion Magazines and Delphine de Girardin’s Lettres Parisiennes. In: Scenes of Parisian Modernity. Palgrave Macmillan, New York. https://doi.org/10.1057/9780230101937_4
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1057/9780230101937_4
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