Abstract
Many weavers live below the poverty line due to the weaving of plain fabrics only. Ornamentation of fabric through extra warp/weft can create more value in the woven fabrics and enhance their income. Ornamentation can be done during weaving itself by using extra weft with or without extra warp. This type of ornamentation does not affect the strength of the ground fabric; if the extra warp and extra weft are removed from the ornamented fabric, still resultant ground fabric will remain as plain usable fabric. There are many other ways to do ornamentation on ground fabric, like embroidery and painting. Embroidery reduces the strength of the ground fabric, and painting may not be as durable as intended. Ornamented fabric through extra warp/weft can enhance the earnings of the weavers in this digital marketing world. Government and many private organizations assist in marketing handloom products. There is an advanced way of doing ornamentation during weaving by lifting warp yarn with the help of different shed formations using tappet, dobby, or jacquard to insert extra weft manually or through an extra weft insertion machine named Chaneki. Extra warp can also be added by using an additional warp beam at the top or bottom of the back side of the loom, maintaining a gap between two warp sheets. This paper presents the advanced semi-automatic handloom named De sign loom for ornamentation during weaving using extra weft to produce high-value handloom products. Shedding and beating are the only manual motions in the loom to facilitate plain weaving with ornamentation.
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Mahato, M., Das, A.K. (2024). Advance Methods of Ornamentation in Fabrics Woven Using Fly-Shuttle Semi-Automatic Handloom. In: Karmakar, S., Chandra Kalita, P., Salve, U.R., Banerjee, S. (eds) Innovative Design for Societal Needs. NERC 2022. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-99-6468-0_13
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