Conscious, Collaborative Clothing: A Case Study on Regenerating Relationships Within the Khadi Value Chain

Abstract

Globalisation and industrialisation has led to the social relations involved in cultivating our everyday products, such as clothing and textiles, to become invisible, resulting in inequity and vulnerability within value chains. These complex, globalised value chains have led to a lack of connection between our actions and the corresponding impacts on both human and non-human ecosystems. This case study addresses and challenges this disconnection by setting out to regenerate relationships within the clothing and textile value chain. The study draws on existing research in the field of design for sustainability and ethnographic research conducted in England, in collaboration with activists and suppliers of khadi, a natural fabric originating from India, traditionally handwoven with handspun yarn on a handloom. The chapter discusses the birth of the khadi movement, its socio-economic and environmental impacts and its development in the khadi sector. A collaboration is also developed between the designer and members of a local community in Kolding, Denmark, with the aim of gaining a deeper insight into relationships with clothing and factors that influence fulfilment and longevity. The workshops simultaneously acted as a bridge to share knowledge about the significance of natural fibres further down the value chain and led to co-designing a limited series of artefacts. The goal of the case study is to investigate if and how building upon collaborative relationships within the value chain has the capacity to challenge the current speed and scale of design, production and consumer culture, and to pose an alternative practice that aligns with planetary boundaries and human well-being. Thus, opening up a path for designers to consider honing in on developing hand-crafted luxury garments that align with principles of environmental and social sustainability in the field of clothing and textiles.