Traditional and Technical Assets of Punjabi Culture: Phulkari, Bagh and Chope Embroideries

Abstract

Three traditional folk embroideries: Phulkari, Bagh and Chope of undivided Punjab, practised then by a group of females of similar or different age groups (Trinjan) in their homes are nowadays kept as heirlooms. These technique for these embroideries employ untwisted flat Silk floss to embroider on hand-spun cotton fabric and have been enriching the cultural fabric of various life-cycle ceremonies followed in Punjab. Ceremonial Phulkari, Bagh and Chope had a ‘Nazar battu’ (to ward away the evil eye) of different  colour and motifs, and the presence of this motif defines the authenticity of home-crafted folk embroidered fabric. This paper will bring forth authentic traditional methods of identifying these heirlooms. The tradition to embroider with Silk floss was an essential merit for a would-be bride of Punjab, so that they become self-sufficient, learn about family affairs while sitting in a group of friends and elders. This cultural activity cultivated habit to maintain art  in dressing themselves and it was customary to own Phulkaris, Baghs or Chope for a would-be bride. Besides the common visual material identity of traditional Phulkari, Bagh and Chope, they differ in visual and technical methods  of embroidery, the details are discussed in the paper. Also, each and every motif Embroidered on them narrates the embroiderer’s meticulous skills expressing their immediate environment, belief system, which makes every piece unique and reflection of individual’s family background, skills,  prefrences, taste and liking. This paper primarily presents methods of visual and technical identification of traditional Phulkari, Bagh and Chope. It further highlights traditional belief, material culture and emerging trends.