Skip to main content

Cotton Fiber and Yarn Dyeing

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Cotton Science and Processing Technology

Part of the book series: Textile Science and Clothing Technology ((TSCT))

Abstract

Cotton is one of the most popular natural fibers around the globe with the purest source of cellulose. Cotton fiber is often dyed to obtain a wide range of colors and provide an integral component in modern society for human comfort and sustainability. Dyeing is the process associated with the coloring of fiber, yarn and fabric using different types of chemicals and dyes. Color is an essential aspect of our lifestyle and dyeing is the process to achieve that in the desired way. For the dyeing of the cotton substrate, different dyes like reactive, vat, sulfur, azoic, basic and natural dyes can be used. During dyeing, the dye molecules get attached to the fiber by various physical and chemical forces depending upon their molecular structure. There have been various developments in dyeing methods and relative machinery over the years to achieve optimum dyeing of the textile substrate in different forms. This chapter gives a brief overview of different dyes used for cotton fiber and yarn with suitable dyeing techniques and relative machinery.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 89.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 119.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 169.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  1. Cross, C. F., & Bevan, E. J. (1907). Researches on cellulose. Longman & Co.

    Google Scholar 

  2. Trotman, E. R. (1984). Dyeing and chemical technology of textile fibres. New York: B. I. Publications.

    Google Scholar 

  3. Lewin, M. (2006). Chemical properties of cotton. In Cotton fiber chemistry and technology, (pp. 104–105). Jerusalem, Israel: International Fiber Science and Technology, Taylor & Francis Group, LLC.

    Google Scholar 

  4. Dyeing primer. (1981). Research triangle park. NC: American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists.

    Google Scholar 

  5. Guaratini, C. C. I., Fogg, A. G., & Zanoni, M. V. B. (2001). Dyes and Pigments, 50(3), 211–220.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  6. Yusuf, M., Shabbir, M., & Mohammad, F. (2017). Natural colorants: Historical. Processing and sustainable prospects: Springer.

    Google Scholar 

  7. Herman, P., Baumann, C. E. & Fletcher, J. M. (1966). Textile dyeing, International textbook company (1st ed.).

    Google Scholar 

  8. Punia, R. (2015). Dyeing in ancient indian textile: An analytical study. Ascent International Journal for Research Analysis (AIJRA), 3(1), 1–6.

    Google Scholar 

  9. Broadbent, D. (2001). Basic principles of textile coloration. Society of Dyers and Colourists. ISBN 0 901956 76 7.

    Google Scholar 

  10. Valko, E. I. (1957). The theory of dyeing cellulosic fibers. Textile Research Journal, 27, 883–898. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051755702701108.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  11. Burkinshaw, S. M. (Ed.). (2015). Dyeing Theory, chapter 6. Physico-chemical Aspects of Textile Coloration (1st ed.), (pp. 209–243). Wiley.

    Google Scholar 

  12. Lewis, D. M., & Loan, T. T. V. (2007). Dyeing cotton with reactive dyes under neutral conditions. Coloration Technology, 123, 306–311. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2007.00099.x.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  13. Benkhaya, S., Harfi, S. E., & Harfi, A. E. (2017). Classifications, properties and applications of textile dyes: A review. Applied Journal of Environmental Engineering Science, 3(3), 311–320.

    Google Scholar 

  14. Chequer, F. M. D., Oliveira, G. A. R., Ferraz, E. R. A., Cardoso, J. C., Zanoni, M. V. B, & Oliveira, D. P. (2013). Textile dyes: dyeing process and environmental impact. Intech open science, eco-friendly textile dyeing and finishing, pp. 152–176. http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/53659.

  15. Waring, D. R. (1990). Dyes for cellulosic fibers. Published in book, The chemistry and application of dyes, (pp. 49–62). New York: Plenum Press.

    Google Scholar 

  16. Phillip, J. W., Noelie, R. B., French, A. D., Thibodeaux, D. P., Triplett, B. A., Rousselle, M. A., et al. (2006). Cotton fiber chemistry and technology. Taylor and Francis Group: International Fiber Science and Technology Series.

    Google Scholar 

  17. David, M. L. (2014). Developments in the chemistry of reactive dyes and their application processes. Coloration Technology, 130, 382–412. https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12114.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  18. Tappe, H., Helmling, W., Mischke, P., Rebsamen, K., Reiher, U., Russ, W., et al. (2000). Reactive dyes. Wiley-VCH, Weinheim: Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  19. Chavan, R. B. (2011). Environmentally friendly dyes. In M Clark (Ed.), Handbook of textile and industrial dyeing, (pp. 515–560). Woodhead Publishing.

    Google Scholar 

  20. Sultana, S., Fatema, U. K., & Islam, Md A. (2018). Sensitivity analysis of vinylsulphone and monochlorotriazine/vinyl sulphone reactive groups of reactive dyes in dyeing. IOSR Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering, 5(2), 08–15. https://doi.org/10.9790/019X-05020815.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  21. Burkinshaw, M., & Katsarelias, D. (1995). A study of the wash-off and after treatment of dichlorotriazinyl reactive dyes on cotton. Textile Chemistry, 29(2), 139–153.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  22. Parvinzadeh, M. (2007). The effects of softeners on the properties of sulfur-dyed cotton fibers. Journal of Surfact Deterg, 10, 219–223. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11743-007-1034-6.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  23. Teli, M. D., Paul, R., Landage, S. M., & Aich, A. (2001). Ecofriendly processing of sulphur and vat dyes-an overview. IJFTR, 26, 101–107.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  24. Isik, M. & Sponza, D. T. (2004). Monitoring of toxicity and intermediates of CI Direct Black 38 azo dye through decolorization in an anaerobic/aerobic sequential reactor system. Journal of Hazardous Materials, pp. 29–39. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jhazmat.2004.06.011.

  25. Aljamali, N. M. (2015). Review in azo compounds and its biological activity. Biochemistry and Analytical Biochemistry, 4(169), 1–4. https://doi.org/10.4172/2161-1009.1000169.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  26. Van der Zee, F. P. (2002). Anaerobic azo dye reduction (Doctoral Thesis, Wageningen University). Wageningen, The Netherlands, 142.

    Google Scholar 

  27. Uddin, M. S., Zhou, J., Qu, Y., Guo, J., Wang, P., & Zhao, L. H. (2007). Biodecolorization of azo dye acid red b under high salinity condition. Bulletin of Environmental Contamination and Toxicology, 79(4), 440–444. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00128-007-9260-1.

  28. Mohammadi, G., Razieh, Z., Lashgari, M. N. & Kruger, H. G. (2018). Chapter 4—Azo dyes, metal-free synthetic organic dyes, pp. 47–93. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-815647-6.00004-2.

  29. Moser, H. (1984). Method for improving the fastness of dyeing with basic dyes on cellulosic substrates. United States Patent, 4, 439, 208.

    Google Scholar 

  30. Foisal, A. B. M., Islam, A., & Rahman, S. (2015). Study on dyeing of jute and cotton blended yarn with acid and basic dyes. In 2nd Textile Research Conference (TRC). Dhaka, Bangladesh, 26 Dec 2015.

    Google Scholar 

  31. Rahman, S. A., & Foisal, A. B. M. (2016). Dyeing of cotton fabric with basic dye in conventional method and pre-treated with cationic polyacrylamide. SEU Journal of Science and Engineering, 10(2), 75–80.

    Google Scholar 

  32. Fu, S., Farrellb, M. J., & Hausera, P. J. (2017). Optimising the anionisation of cotton with 3-chloro-2-hydroxy-1-propanesulphonic acid sodium salt for dyeing with basic dyes. Coloration Technology, 1–6. https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12267.

  33. Kawahito, M., Yasukawa, R., Urakawa, H., Ueda, M., & Kajiwara, K. (2003). Running of color in cotton cloth tie-dyed with natural and synthetic indigo. Sen’i Gakkaishi, 59, 133–138.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  34. Ben, T. M., Meksi, N., Driraa, N., Kechidac, M., & Mhenni, M. F. (2013). A promising route to dye cotton by indigo with an ecological exhaustion process: A dyeing process optimization based on a response surface methodology. Industrial Crops and Products, 46, 350–358. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.indcrop.2013.02.009.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  35. Meksi, N., Kechida, M., & Mhenni, F. (2007). Cotton dyeing by indigo with the borohydride process: Effect of some experimental conditions on indigo reduction and dyeing quality. Chemical Engineering Journal, 131, 187–193.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  36. Patra, S. K., Patra, A. K., Ojha, P., Shekhawat, N. S., & Khandual, A. (2018). Vat dyeing at room temperature. Cellulose, 1–10. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10570-018-1901-5.

  37. Gargoubi, S., Boudokhane, C., Ladhari, N., & Sakli, F. (2013). Impact of cotton cationization on the quality of direct dyeing. In International Conference of Applied Research in Textile, CIRAT-5, (pp. 1–3). Monastir, Tunisia.

    Google Scholar 

  38. Tsatsaroni, E. G., Eleftheriadis, I. C., & Kehayoglou, A. H. (1990). The role of polyoxyethylenated stearylamines in the dyeing of cotton with direct dyes. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists (JSDC), 106, 245–248.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  39. Satyanarayana, D. N. V., & Chandra, K. R. (2013). Dyeing of cotton cloth with natural dye extracted from pomegranate peel and its fastness. International Journal of Engineering Sciences and Research Technology, 2(10), 2664–2669.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  40. Daberao, A. M., Kolte, P. P., & Turukmane, R. N. (2016). Cotton dying with natural dye. International Journal of Research and Scientific Innovation (IJRSI), 3(8), 705–712.

    Google Scholar 

  41. Saxena, S, & Raja, A. S. M. (2014). Natural dyes: Sources, chemistry, application and sustainability issues. In S. S. Muthu (Ed.), Textile science and clothing technology, pp. 37–80.

    Google Scholar 

  42. Khoo, H. E., Azlan A., Tang, S. T. & Lim, S. M. (2017). Anthocyanidins and anthocyanins: Colored pigments as food, pharmaceutical ingredients, and the potential health benefits. Food and Nutrition Research, 61, 1–22. https://doi.org/10.1080/16546628.2017.1361779.

  43. Berberi, P. G. (1991). Effect of lubrication on spinning properties of dyed cotton fibers. Textile Research Journal, 61, 285–288.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  44. Koo, J. G., Park, J. W., An, S. K., & Koo, Y. S. (2003). Properties of specialty yarns based on raw and dyed cotton. Textile Research Journal, 73(1), 26–30.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  45. Vhanbatte, S. B. (2004). Studies on the use of reducing sugar as a substitute of sodium sulphide for dyeing of cotton with sulphur dyes. Awarded, Delhi: Indian Institute of Technology.

    Google Scholar 

  46. Pailthorpe, M. T., & Wood, E. J. (2012). Wool dyeing principles and techniques. The Australian Wool Education Trust licensee for educational activities University of New England, WOOL482/582 Wool Processing, pp. 1–22.

    Google Scholar 

  47. Meraj, S., Qayoom, A., & Saeeda, N. A. (2016). Effective process optimization of indigo rope dyeing: A case study. Journal of New Technology and Materials (JNTM), 06(2), 33–37.

    Google Scholar 

  48. Cignolo, S., Rovero, G., Banchero, M., & Ferrero, F. (2004). Industrial experimentation on hank-dyeing: modelling equipment and water economisation during rinsing. AUTEX Research Journal, 4(4), 194–205.

    Google Scholar 

  49. Yemul, N. L., & Kulkarni, P. R.(2016). A review of package dyeing system in textile industries. IOSR Journal of Mechanical and Civil Engineering (IOSRJMCE), 56–60, e-ISSN: 2278-1684, p-ISSN: 2320-334X.

    Google Scholar 

  50. Chaplin, H., Park, J., & Thompson, T. M. (1980). A technical and economic appraisal of yarn package dyeing. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists (JSDC), 96, 580–587.

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Sudev Dutta .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2020 The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd.

About this chapter

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this chapter

Dutta, S., Bansal, P. (2020). Cotton Fiber and Yarn Dyeing. In: Wang, H., Memon, H. (eds) Cotton Science and Processing Technology. Textile Science and Clothing Technology. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-15-9169-3_14

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics