Skip to main content

Crafting Luxury with ‘More-ish’ Qualities at the YSL Museum: An Organic Approach

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Sustainable Luxury and Craftsmanship

Abstract

Today, what is organic within architecture enables local craftspeople to acquire new expertise. Studio KO’s Yves Saint Laurent Museum (2017) in Marrakesh, Morocco, is imperative for understanding the relation between sustainable luxury and local craftsmanship. The construction fortifies fashion with the environment as well as local brickwork traditions. For the architects, horizontal layers of textured brickwork resemble a textile weave and become a constructed cultural entity. This chapter traces the ‘more-ish’ qualities, defined herein as causing one’s impulse to create handsome foci (as opposed to the Moorish, which is culturally based), inherent in the YSL Museum from an art-architectural perspective within the sustainable luxury context. It explores the display of the camouflaged Berber (or Amazigh) textile within the building’s facades and interprets its ‘more-ish’ qualities of luxury through its spaces. Analysing Howard Risatti’s ‘theory of craft’ [42] and Richard Sennett’s idea of craft ‘as an enduring, basic human impulse’ [21], this chapter explains why the bricks-and-mortar structure and zellige (hand-made) tiles have literally and metaphorically regained value through craftsmanship in the luxury sector. It discusses how traditional brick-laying techniques and their unexpected connections have transformed the desert built environment and speculates why these changes inform adaptive reuse practice as a ‘more-ish’ organic approach. In this respect, in discussing the brickmaking as a form of crafting luxury the process has cultivated a bonding or ‘tuning-in’ tactic, important in understanding sustainable Moroccan culture.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 79.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 99.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 129.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  1. Abu-Shams L, Gonzales-Vazquez A (2014) Juxtaposing time: an anthropology of multiple temporalities in Morocco. Revue des mondes musulmans et de la Mediterranee 136:33–58

    Google Scholar 

  2. Amir N (2018) The sculptural dresses: Noureddine Amir by Hamid Fardjad, Temporary Exhibition Catalogue 23 February – 22 April 2018, Marrakech. Yves Saint Laurent Museum, Marrakech

    Google Scholar 

  3. Aoudjehane HC, Avice G et al (2012) Tissint martian meteorite: a fresh look at the interior, surface and atmosphere of Mars. Science 338(6108):785–788

    Google Scholar 

  4. Baruah P (2011) Tea drinking: origin, perceptions, habits with special reference to Assam, its tribes, and role of Tocklai. Sci Cult 77(9–10):365–372

    Google Scholar 

  5. Becker CJ (2006) Amazigh arts in Morocco: women shaping berber identity. University of Texas Press, Austin

    Google Scholar 

  6. Benali A (2018) Looking at Mars in Marrakech. In: Adnan Y (ed) Marrakech Noir. Akashic Books, Brooklyn, New York

    Google Scholar 

  7. Berney KA, Ring T (eds) (1996) International dictionary of historic places, vol 4. Fitzroy Dearborn Publishers, Middle East and Africa, London

    Google Scholar 

  8. Branzi (2010) “The new handicrafts”, from Hot house in The craft reader, edited by Glenn Adamson. Berg Publishers, Oxford; New York, pp 557–581

    Google Scholar 

  9. Branzi A (1984) “The new handicrafts”, from hot house. In: Adamson G (ed) The craft reader (2010). Berg, Oxford, New York, pp 577–581

    Google Scholar 

  10. Cruickshank D (2015) The first cities. In: Hall W (ed) Brick. Phaidon Press Limited, London

    Google Scholar 

  11. Delavan T (2017) Essay in Studio KO, by Karl Fornier and Olivier Marty. Rizzoli International, New York

    Google Scholar 

  12. El Aroussi M (2018) ‘The sculptural dresses: Noureddine Amir’, curated by Hamid Fardjad. Temporary Exhibition Catalogue, Musee Yves Saint Laurent, Marrakech, 23 Feb–22 Apr

    Google Scholar 

  13. El Faiz M, Ruf T (2010) An introduction to the Khettara in Morocco: two contrasting cases. In: Schneier-Madanes G, Courel M-F (eds) Water and sustainability in arid regions: bridging the gap between the physical and social sciences. Springer, Dordrecht, Heidelberg, London, New York

    Google Scholar 

  14. El Aroussi M (2015) Visual arts in the Kingdom of Morocco, the Arab League’s Educational Cultural and Scientific Organization

    Google Scholar 

  15. Fardjad H (2018) The sculptural dresses: Noureddine Amir, curated by H. Fardjad, Temporary exhibition catalogue 23 Feb–22 Apr 2018, Marrakech. Yves Saint Laurent Museum, Marrakech

    Google Scholar 

  16. Gardetti MA, Torres AL (2013) Sustainability in fashion and textiles: values, design, production and consumption. Greenleaf Publishing

    Google Scholar 

  17. Hampate Ba A (1976) African art: Where the hand has ears.’ In: Adamson G (ed) The craft reader (2010). Berg, Oxford, New York, pp 379–385

    Google Scholar 

  18. Hansen C (2009) “Colors/ porphyry: blood from a stone”, in Cabinet magazine, Spring, Issue 33

    Google Scholar 

  19. Jansen AM (2016) Defining Moroccanness: the aesthetics and politics of contemporary Moroccan fashion design. J Northern Afr Stud 21(1):132–147

    Google Scholar 

  20. Joliffe L (2004) The lure of tea; history, traditions and attractions. In: Hall M et al (eds) Food tourism around the world: development, management and markets. Routledge, London, pp 121–136

    Google Scholar 

  21. Kassia SC (2018) The golden thread. John Murray Publishers, London

    Google Scholar 

  22. Khalid M (2019) Urban restructuring, power and capitalism in the tourist city: contested terrains of Marrakech. Routledge, London

    Google Scholar 

  23. Kidder-Smith GE (1955) North African scrapbook: Morocco. Architect Rev 118(705):177–185

    Google Scholar 

  24. Koolhaas R (2002) Junkspace. In: Chung J, Inaba J et al (eds) Harvard school of design guide to shopping. Taschen GmbH, Koln

    Google Scholar 

  25. Koolhaas R (2001) Junkspace. https://www.readingdesign.org/junkspace. Accessed 27 Aug 2019

  26. Kouskou T, Allouhi A et al (2015) Renewable energy potential and national policy directions for sustainable development in Morocco. Renew Sustain Energy Rev (47):46–57

    Google Scholar 

  27. Lamzah A (2008) The impact of the French protectorate on cultural heritage management in Morocco: the case of Marrakech. Ph.D. dissertation, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, Illinois, USA

    Google Scholar 

  28. Marie-Rose R, Sorber F (2007) Berber costumes of Morocco: traditional patterns. ACR Edition, Paris

    Google Scholar 

  29. Marty O, Fornier K (2017) Studio KO. Rizzoli International, New York

    Google Scholar 

  30. McDougall J (2003) Myth and counter-myth: the ‘Berber’ as national signifiers in Algerian historiographies. Rad History Rev Spring 86:66–88

    Article  Google Scholar 

  31. Meffre G, Delgado B (2012) Un Urbanisme experimental: Les villes nouvelles Marocaines (1912–1965), la Foundation Jardin Majorelle. Senso Unico Editions, Marrakech

    Google Scholar 

  32. Miller AV (2018) Tents, palaces, and ‘imperial souvenirs’: mobilizing cultural authority in the French protectorate of Morocco. J Middle East Africa 9(1):51–75

    Article  Google Scholar 

  33. Moine R (2017) Saint Laurent on screen: fashion icon, doomed artist, or celebrity? Fashion Theory 21(6):733–748

    Article  Google Scholar 

  34. Nicholas Claire (2014) Of texts and textiles…: colonial ethnography and contemporary Moroccan heritage. J North African Stud 19(3):390–412

    Article  Google Scholar 

  35. Nicolin P (2018) How can I not think about you in Marrakech? In: Domus, no. 1026. https://www.domusweb.it/en/issues/2018/1026.html. Accessed 05 May 2019

  36. O’Kelly E (2017) Less is more: the Yves Saint Laurent Museum is set to be a lesson in restrained elegance, Wallpaper*. https://www.wallpaper.com/author/emma-okelly/6. Accessed 05 May 2019

  37. Partridge E (2006) The new Partridge dictionary of slang and unconventional English, edited by Terry Victor. Routledge, London

    Google Scholar 

  38. Pulice M (2006) Machines for making bricks in America, 1800–1850, The Chronicle of the early American industries associations, vol 59, no 2, pp 53–58

    Google Scholar 

  39. Ringer R (2019) Turning up the heat: Sydney’s 19th century brickyards. Bricks to build a town in Australian Society for the Study of Labour History, https://www.labourhistory.org.au/hummer/the-hummer-vol-8-no-1-2012/brickyardssydney/. Accessed 30 Oct 2019

  40. Risatti H (2007) A theory of craft: function and aesthetic expression. The University of North California Press, Chapel Hill

    Google Scholar 

  41. Saint Laurent Y (1998) Yves Saint Laurent and fashion photography, te Neues Publishing Company

    Google Scholar 

  42. Sennett R (2008) The craftsman. Allen Lane, Great Britain

    Google Scholar 

  43. Vandenabeele (2015) The sublime in art: Kant, the mannerist, and the matterist sublime. J Aesthetic Educ 49(3):32–49

    Google Scholar 

  44. Wiesing L (2019) A philosophy of luxury. Routledge, London

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgements

In Morocco, I thank Faycal Tiaiba from Studio KO Marrakech Office for his conversation on the Yves Saint Laurent Museum project and The Arts of Fashion Foundation for the opportunity to work within the YSL Museum’s conference room as well as meeting Noureddine Amir at his atelier and residence.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Annette Condello .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2020 Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd.

About this chapter

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this chapter

Condello, A. (2020). Crafting Luxury with ‘More-ish’ Qualities at the YSL Museum: An Organic Approach. In: Gardetti, M., Coste-Manière, I. (eds) Sustainable Luxury and Craftsmanship. Environmental Footprints and Eco-design of Products and Processes. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-15-3769-1_7

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics